Hi folks, been a member on here for some years but never posted before. I wanted to undertake a smal amount of work replacing the track rod ends, and vertical stabilisers which were a cause of my car failing the MOT.

Problem 1) Removing the disc rotor one of the counter sunk bolts sheered off. I've tried all the methods reverse drilled out the centre of the bolt, days of penetrating fluid, heating and cooling, and lastly i purchased so called "professional" bolt extractors which even when used delicately has snapped off inside the drilled hole ..I now have to try to re drill out the hardened tip of the bolt extractor which is a nightmare. SO my question is should i just re-drill and tap the same hole or does anyone have any suggestions?

Problem 2) Whilst working on this delightful problem (oh how I laughed) the connector attached to the side of the front shock (damper) (where the brake pad wear sensor plugs into) has a ground which was corroded and has broken off. Again whats the simplest way to repair this short of replacing the loom?

Hoping someone out there can help...






Many thanks

 

I'd just bring the problem area flat, use the rotor as a template and drill/tap a new hole in a different location. If its a 6mm hole then start with a 6mm bit just to get a center started. Then switch over to the drill size for the tap.

Not sure on the ground wire- where does is it supposed to attach? Looks like you have some decent rust going on there! Its going to be a fight every time. Best to (when possible) prep several days ahead with penetrating oil on any fastener that you will need to take off. Also I highly recommend a mapp gas torch. Alternating with oil it can work wonders- but still requires patience. There is nothing worse than that sinking feeling when the wrench gets a little easier to turn and you know the bolt has stripped.

 

Thanks for the reply.
Yes i suspected re-tapping the hole was the only way to go, it just makes it 10 times more difficult with the screw extractor in there having to drill this out first, I've already broken two drill bits....

The wire attached to the white tubular connector block, in the close up you can see the point where it broke off below where the back wiring loom enters the block.

I was thinking to replace this small section of loom but its £300! I will probably separate the ground from the loom and and solder a connection and heat shrink it to protect it. Again if anyone has any other thoughts they would be welcome as I'm a novice.

 

Reach behind the hub flange. Does the broken-off countersunk screw protrude at all? If so, try grabbing it with vice grip pliers & unthreading it.



Andreas

 

Ebay for a hub

 

Just to be clear I’m not suggesting you retap the hole- but rather that you use the rotor as a template and make a new hole in a different location - just leave the broken extractor in there.

 

What will happen if the new rotor is fixed with just one screw? I bet nothing!

 

Thanks for the responses very much appreciated from a newbe

So if anyone finds themselves in a similar position here's what i did. I spoke to a friend of mine who is a master lock smith, strange choice of person to ask maybe but he's a guy who is called to break into safes when people lose their keys so i guessed he has some experience in drilling hard metals?
Anyway, he advised to use a 2.5mm cobalt drill to pilot through and use a slow speed so it can actually grab the metal, i needed about an hour and two drills to do this, then he said to use a TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tip) drill to drill out the hole to 5.5mm then then re-tap which i did yesterday and it worked after two days of frustration!

As a lot resort i thought about changing the disc rotor and making a new hole great idea but i thought there must be a way to fix the problem. New hub? £500+ not really an option.

My biggest issue now is mission creep, didn't like the rust so now going to grind down and rust treat and repaint the assembly (not the hub obviously) and a new set of B listen shocks is going on. SERIOUSLY this only started as an MOT failure on a track rod end bush and steering rack gaiter split..... when will this madness end...