Adding second oil cooler - Oil line questions
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Adding second oil cooler - Oil line questions
Since my car sees mostly track time and it's always hot in Texas I'm adding a second oil cooler to the 964. I've done a fair bit of research on this, but some of the info is dated and not the clearest.
I'm going to be building my own kit since the FVD one is hideously expensive.
I'm going to use a Setrab cooler (most likely their 34 row 6 series), build lines back to the OEM cooler out of 16AN hose with AN fittings.
I've decided to replace the OEM oil cooler lines since they're due and am of two minds:
Thanks,
Joe
I'm going to be building my own kit since the FVD one is hideously expensive.
I'm going to use a Setrab cooler (most likely their 34 row 6 series), build lines back to the OEM cooler out of 16AN hose with AN fittings.
I've decided to replace the OEM oil cooler lines since they're due and am of two minds:
- Have hydraulic shop reuse fittings and plumb in new soft lines
- Build all new lines using AN fittings and adapters
- I read somewhere that the feed line (to oil cooler) should be 16AN and return (from cooler) should be 12AN due to the fitting size at the thermostat; can anyone who's done this or has experience confirm?
- When building the new lines from one oil cooler to the other is there an issue with using 16AN lines for both feed (from OEM cooler to secondary) and return (from secondary back to engine)?
- Are there any downsides of making braided lines to replace the combination of hard and soft lines running from cooler to thermostat?
Thanks,
Joe
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,964
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From: Peachtree City, Ga
Joe - I have replaced oil lines on my car and added a 2nd oil color. I used the stock oil cooler as primary and secondary oil coolers. I replaced the older flex lines with all AN 12 fittings and hose. Can't see any reason to go to AN 16 as that is really large. Since I have added 2nd OC I have had no issues with high oil temps at all. I did add 2 new oil coooler fans(NonOEM) and ran a control switch into the cockpit as well as wired into the temp sensors on the original cooler. So I can tunr fans on or just let temp sensor control. I ran AN stainless lines across front of car behind bumper to other side. I have removed my AC unit so mount oil cooler on the left side was not an issue of space. I changed the angle of the oil coolers to be more directly in line of on coming air instead of the stock position. This mod added about 2 more quarts of oil to the system.
Your questions -
1. I think AN 12 is more that suficient
2. Use An 12 - 16 will be way to large to route- Look at ID of the stock lines and hard lines - AN12 is about a perfect match.
3. I don't see an issue using stainless braided, but you will need to make sure they are supported. It is/would be easier to replace hard lines and add AN fittings/adapters were needed -
Your questions -
1. I think AN 12 is more that suficient
2. Use An 12 - 16 will be way to large to route- Look at ID of the stock lines and hard lines - AN12 is about a perfect match.
3. I don't see an issue using stainless braided, but you will need to make sure they are supported. It is/would be easier to replace hard lines and add AN fittings/adapters were needed -
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 17,250
Likes: 2,220
From: SoCal
http://carnewal.com/products/993/p93055/GT-Oil-Cooler
With strong $ not bad, although when I got it it was less. This is the same as the Ruf and FVD kit.
Its not cheap, but it is plug and play. So pick your poison: ready to go or fabrication time / effort... I chose plug and play and it literally took about 4 hours to fully install, which included removing the bumper and cleaning the AC condenser.
if you want AC or retain AC, you'll need to fab a bracket. if not, its easier to install.
AN12 should be fine. Good quality hydraulic line is fine. Ensure to support the hoses that route under the bumper to minimize chaffing. You can see my build thread for pictures of the install and kit.
Good news is, even when driving my car very hard, I won't see temps above 8 o'clock even with the fans off. It runs very cool.
With strong $ not bad, although when I got it it was less. This is the same as the Ruf and FVD kit.
Its not cheap, but it is plug and play. So pick your poison: ready to go or fabrication time / effort... I chose plug and play and it literally took about 4 hours to fully install, which included removing the bumper and cleaning the AC condenser.
if you want AC or retain AC, you'll need to fab a bracket. if not, its easier to install.
AN12 should be fine. Good quality hydraulic line is fine. Ensure to support the hoses that route under the bumper to minimize chaffing. You can see my build thread for pictures of the install and kit.
Good news is, even when driving my car very hard, I won't see temps above 8 o'clock even with the fans off. It runs very cool.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 71
From: Peachtree City, Ga
You can grab a 964/993 oil cooler off eBay for around $200-$250. Then order your aeroquip hose and fittings from Pegasus. You can make your own oil lines using a vice and standard hand tools. Fabrication of mount is pretty easy if your hand with tools. Bumper cover needs to come off to access all.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
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Thanks for the feedback and help gents. The car is currently waiting on parts and I like tinkering, so the ease of install of the Carnewal is outweighed by its expense for me.
I'll pick up a cooler, some Aeroquip lines and fittings, fab up a bracket and proceed full steam ahead.
I have to have A/C down here in Houston. It's nearly October and it was 95* and humid today.
I'll pick up a cooler, some Aeroquip lines and fittings, fab up a bracket and proceed full steam ahead.
I have to have A/C down here in Houston. It's nearly October and it was 95* and humid today.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 201
From: TX
Thanks for the feedback and help gents. The car is currently waiting on parts and I like tinkering, so the ease of install of the Carnewal is outweighed by its expense for me.
I'll pick up a cooler, some Aeroquip lines and fittings, fab up a bracket and proceed full steam ahead.
I have to have A/C down here in Houston. It's nearly October and it was 95* and humid today.
I'll pick up a cooler, some Aeroquip lines and fittings, fab up a bracket and proceed full steam ahead.
I have to have A/C down here in Houston. It's nearly October and it was 95* and humid today.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 519
Likes: 125
I'm really interested to see how well the second cooler works to keep the car cool during track days.
I ordered up a NOS OEM cooler this morning, still need to decide what to do with the lines, but I sprained my ankle pretty bad last night so the project might be delayed a week or two.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 52
From: DFW, TX
So the car is overheating during track sessions?
I don't want to discourage you from new mods, but have you had the front bumper off the car? Do you remember if the front bumper sealing wedges were still intact back there?
The front bumper sealing wedges are basically foam baffles that force air through the oil cooler (and condenser).
The problem is that this foam material turns to dust after 20+ years and most 964s no longer have them.
On track, or at speed in general, the car is getting plenty of airflow through the bumper. These sealing wedges prevent air from going around the cooler, and instead force the airflow through the cooler.
Make sure the factory's airflow management is functioning correctly.
You can see several photos of what I'm talking about in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9959309
I don't want to discourage you from new mods, but have you had the front bumper off the car? Do you remember if the front bumper sealing wedges were still intact back there?
The front bumper sealing wedges are basically foam baffles that force air through the oil cooler (and condenser).
The problem is that this foam material turns to dust after 20+ years and most 964s no longer have them.
On track, or at speed in general, the car is getting plenty of airflow through the bumper. These sealing wedges prevent air from going around the cooler, and instead force the airflow through the cooler.
Make sure the factory's airflow management is functioning correctly.
You can see several photos of what I'm talking about in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9959309
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 519
Likes: 125
So the car is overheating during track sessions?
I don't want to discourage you from new mods, but have you had the front bumper off the car? Do you remember if the front bumper sealing wedges were still intact back there?
The front bumper sealing wedges are basically foam baffles that force air through the oil cooler (and condenser).
The problem is that this foam material turns to dust after 20+ years and most 964s no longer have them.
On track, or at speed in general, the car is getting plenty of airflow through the bumper. These sealing wedges prevent air from going around the cooler, and instead force the airflow through the cooler.
Make sure the factory's airflow management is functioning correctly.
You can see several photos of what I'm talking about in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9959309
I don't want to discourage you from new mods, but have you had the front bumper off the car? Do you remember if the front bumper sealing wedges were still intact back there?
The front bumper sealing wedges are basically foam baffles that force air through the oil cooler (and condenser).
The problem is that this foam material turns to dust after 20+ years and most 964s no longer have them.
On track, or at speed in general, the car is getting plenty of airflow through the bumper. These sealing wedges prevent air from going around the cooler, and instead force the airflow through the cooler.
Make sure the factory's airflow management is functioning correctly.
You can see several photos of what I'm talking about in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9959309
Doesn't mean I can't spend $15 and make some new baffles to have them brand spankin' new, shiny, and ensure a perfect seal. That coupled with the second cooler which is already here should mean that I will have no cooling issues no matter the temp and duration of time on track.
On another note, all of the pictures in that thread are semi-blurred and have a large photobucket watermark on them; pretty difficult to make anything out.
Last edited by F/51 LRS; Sep 28, 2019 at 10:06 AM.