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Picked up a '90 C4 w/51K miles

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Old 08-22-2019, 08:28 AM
  #61  
cobalt
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Originally Posted by chsu74
Thanks Anthony. Will have to drop the motor and separate the gearbox to see what setup is in there as the Aug 89 build.

I helped my friend Pino with a late build 89 a number of years back and it still had the original dual mass. They were known to have issues as you know. The luk I have will bolt right up.
Old 09-13-2019, 01:43 PM
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chsu74
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Motor dropped. Will replace fuel lines, front rusted tin and a few other while your there stuff like welding planetary gear pins in the center diff along with clutch and flywheel.
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Last edited by chsu74; 09-13-2019 at 03:43 PM.
Old 09-13-2019, 03:30 PM
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Nice, I replaced all the fuel lines in the engine when I had my engine rebuilt. But I forgot to look at the 3 hard lines from the fuel pump. *facepalm*
Old 09-13-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Infinite1
Nice, I replaced all the fuel lines in the engine when I had my engine rebuilt. But I forgot to look at the 3 hard lines from the fuel pump. *facepalm*
I believe there are 5 lines on top snaking around the intake manifolds. The long one with soft line ends that runs from fuel pump to right before the fuel filter makes it six lines total.
Old 09-13-2019, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by chsu74
I believe there are 5 lines on top snaking around the intake manifolds. The long one with soft line ends that runs from fuel pump to right before the fuel filter makes it six lines total.
I thought all three had soft line ends?


Old 09-13-2019, 07:01 PM
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chsu74
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^ yes there are a few out of the 5 fuel lines(thought I counted 5 at the shop) on top that are a combination of soft and hard lines.
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:04 PM
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Yep, I did all 5 of those lines. I did Griffith’s for the two under the manifold since they’re steel braided. Kinda wish they did all of them but oh well. I just went with OEM for the rest.
Old 09-14-2019, 07:43 AM
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I would consider changing the injector seals and check the seals on the power steering pump and replace the power steering belt while in there. I just dropped a 91 and the seals were plastic. They just crumbled. Also as you probably know the primary fuel line is different for some MY's. Not a bad time to do the timing chain cover seals as well. The rubber grommets shrink over time and don't hold the seal tight enough and they begin to leak. If they are original it is worth doing.

I don't recognize the shop who did you end up using?
Old 09-14-2019, 05:17 PM
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chsu74
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Originally Posted by Infinite1
Yep, I did all 5 of those lines. I did Griffith’s for the two under the manifold since they’re steel braided. Kinda wish they did all of them but oh well. I just went with OEM for the rest.
Here is my take on these cars. Yes some of these parts do not last 30 years. However, OEM parts I am swapping out will last until the next time I drop this motor again so OEM parts it gets replaced with.
Old 09-14-2019, 05:27 PM
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chsu74
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Originally Posted by cobalt
I would consider changing the injector seals and check the seals on the power steering pump and replace the power steering belt while in there. I just dropped a 91 and the seals were plastic. They just crumbled. Also as you probably know the primary fuel line is different for some MY's. Not a bad time to do the timing chain cover seals as well. The rubber grommets shrink over time and don't hold the seal tight enough and they begin to leak. If they are original it is worth doing.

I don't recognize the shop who did you end up using?
Yeah. This is my project/tinker car. Building my garage with lift to muck around which will take place over the next 18 months. The flywheel disintegrating came 18 months too early or I would be dropping the motor myself.
Old 10-10-2019, 04:54 PM
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More work. Timing chain covers leaking. Engine tins off. My cold leak down and compression numbers are good as well!
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Last edited by chsu74; 10-10-2019 at 07:45 PM.
Old 10-11-2019, 08:59 AM
  #72  
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How bad were the leaks? looks like the sound deadening pillows on the heat shields are gone as is with every car I have worked on. If they get too saturated the plastic will absorb the oil and although thoroughly cleaned when heated the oil will leach out and continue to make a mess on the floor after spirited driving. I personally don't reinstall them but found using a purple degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner for many cleanings helps. I am assuming you are changing all the seals at this point and might as well change the O rings in the cam tower bridges. Good time to check that the oil squirters for the upper rockers aren't clogged. Also I don't like the red O rings used on the 964's in the cam tower bridge. They start off round and very quickly will flatten out and leak again. I use the black ones from the 993 they seem to hold up better.
Old 10-11-2019, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt
How bad were the leaks? looks like the sound deadening pillows on the heat shields are gone as is with every car I have worked on. If they get too saturated the plastic will absorb the oil and although thoroughly cleaned when heated the oil will leach out and continue to make a mess on the floor after spirited driving. I personally don't reinstall them but found using a purple degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner for many cleanings helps. I am assuming you are changing all the seals at this point and might as well change the O rings in the cam tower bridges. Good time to check that the oil squirters for the upper rockers aren't clogged. Also I don't like the red O rings used on the 964's in the cam tower bridge. They start off round and very quickly will flatten out and leak again. I use the black ones from the 993 they seem to hold up better.
Thanks Anthony. I scraped all the sound deadening foam off heat shields this past summer when Rob and I did plugs and wires. Gave shop easy off bolts. Shop mentioned the cam seal leak and that will get sorted.
Old 12-08-2019, 03:12 PM
  #74  
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Refurb continues
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Old 12-08-2019, 03:49 PM
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Great seeing all these updates.


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