Chronicling the restoration and rebuild of Wilbur, the Pig
#886
#888
PCA NER held its first DE Track Event of the season this weekend at Thompson Speedway in Connecticut. Friday was for advanced drivers only, and we got over 2 1/2 hours of track time. If you haven’t had an opportunity to track your car, I highly encourage signing up with your local PCA Chapter. It will put a smile on your face, and make you a better driver.
Preparing for the track, my primary concern was the rubbing on the oil pipe in the right rear well. I ordered a new flat oil pipe, but it didn’t arrive in time for a replacement so I loosened the clamp and gave the oil pipe a few live taps to snug it up against the wheel well. A test run at Palmer confirmed this did the trick, and there’s no more rubbing. Based on other slight rub marks around the rear wheel well,?it looks like I need to bump up from 4mm to 5mm spacers. It may be time to roll the rear fenders…
The final prep for the track was a trip to the spa at Unique Car Care in Middleton Massachusetts. With a freshly painted front bumper and hood, I wanted to lay down some PPF to protect the paint at the track. It’s a small investment to keep the car looking good despite some spirited driving.
The car performed flawlessly all weekend. But just as I was leaving the track, she refused to drop into first gear. This repeated itself sporadically for the drive back to Cape Cod. I’m sorting through that right now, and just bled the clutch slave hoping it’s not more serious.
Posting up a few photos of the prep work, and a few photos at Thompson.
Rubbing on oil pipe
Loosened clamp and snugged the oil line flush with. The recess
New oil pipe awaiting new tires oil change
A trip to Unique Car Care for PPF on the front bumper and frunk lid
PCA at Thompson CT
PCA NER at Thompson
Back home and wheels are off for post track brake bleed.
The rubbing here suggest the 4mm spacers need to be 5mm
Wheels get inspected wafted every track event.
Preparing for the track, my primary concern was the rubbing on the oil pipe in the right rear well. I ordered a new flat oil pipe, but it didn’t arrive in time for a replacement so I loosened the clamp and gave the oil pipe a few live taps to snug it up against the wheel well. A test run at Palmer confirmed this did the trick, and there’s no more rubbing. Based on other slight rub marks around the rear wheel well,?it looks like I need to bump up from 4mm to 5mm spacers. It may be time to roll the rear fenders…
The final prep for the track was a trip to the spa at Unique Car Care in Middleton Massachusetts. With a freshly painted front bumper and hood, I wanted to lay down some PPF to protect the paint at the track. It’s a small investment to keep the car looking good despite some spirited driving.
The car performed flawlessly all weekend. But just as I was leaving the track, she refused to drop into first gear. This repeated itself sporadically for the drive back to Cape Cod. I’m sorting through that right now, and just bled the clutch slave hoping it’s not more serious.
Posting up a few photos of the prep work, and a few photos at Thompson.
Rubbing on oil pipe
Loosened clamp and snugged the oil line flush with. The recess
New oil pipe awaiting new tires oil change
A trip to Unique Car Care for PPF on the front bumper and frunk lid
PCA at Thompson CT
PCA NER at Thompson
Back home and wheels are off for post track brake bleed.
The rubbing here suggest the 4mm spacers need to be 5mm
Wheels get inspected wafted every track event.
#889
Sooo, back to the problem shifting into first gear. I bled the clutch slave, but little change with the problem. Even with the car off, I’m getting locked out of first gear 80% of the time. Moving the car, or starting and stopping the engine seems to occasionally align everything so it goes into gear.
It could be the master brake cylinder, and that’s one of the few parts I haven’t yet replaced on Wilbur. But We don’t think so, and this come on rather suddenly. It feels like the pressure plate isn’t releasing properly, and I need to find out why. The lightweight flywheel is two years old, but maybe a spring broke loose?
I dropped the car off at Eurotech on Saturday, and I hope to know later this week what the problem is. I’m planning a re-gear eventuality, with steel synchros that I badly need, but not in the middle of the track season. So hoping it’s just a clutch thing. Will keep you posted.
Time for another brake bleed. Track cars get a bad rep, they’re typically better maintained.
Bleeding the clutch slave. No bubbles, but the brake fluid was a bit gray. I’ve seen worse.
By way of comparison, the front brakes were bleeding much cleaner as they always do.
I tried some R3 on the calipers, wow! Easy work.
I purchased an MPL clutch slave this winter. Perfect time to add this to the car while sorting out the first gear drama
It could be the master brake cylinder, and that’s one of the few parts I haven’t yet replaced on Wilbur. But We don’t think so, and this come on rather suddenly. It feels like the pressure plate isn’t releasing properly, and I need to find out why. The lightweight flywheel is two years old, but maybe a spring broke loose?
I dropped the car off at Eurotech on Saturday, and I hope to know later this week what the problem is. I’m planning a re-gear eventuality, with steel synchros that I badly need, but not in the middle of the track season. So hoping it’s just a clutch thing. Will keep you posted.
Time for another brake bleed. Track cars get a bad rep, they’re typically better maintained.
Bleeding the clutch slave. No bubbles, but the brake fluid was a bit gray. I’ve seen worse.
By way of comparison, the front brakes were bleeding much cleaner as they always do.
I tried some R3 on the calipers, wow! Easy work.
I purchased an MPL clutch slave this winter. Perfect time to add this to the car while sorting out the first gear drama
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kos11-12 (06-06-2023)
#892
After a five week delay, we finally got Wilbur up on the lift for a proper inspection. Sadly, the clutch is operating perfectly. After 145,000 miles, my transmission is buggered. Engaging first gear requires either luck, or finesse. At times it will slot right into first gear. But most of the time I’m locked out of first, and need to roll the car a bit to get things aligned and drop it into first. Third gear is also problematic, but only on the track. I’m pretty sure I screwed up first gear while getting locked out of 3rd gear at the track. The Numeric Shifter probably didn’t help matters, but it falls on the driver. That’s me.
My trusted mechanic is too backed up to work on the transmission right now. The plan is to do a full re-gear in the Fall, with steel synchros. I’ve already started doing my homework, and would greatly appreciate any input or advice from others who have been down this path. I’m considering replacing first gear. It’s not cheap, but back in 2020 we noted that the main shaft was pitted. There’s been no leaking, but it may be a good time to replace the gear and the input shaft that file together…
If you have any suggestions or advice on gear ratios, please let me know. I’ve read many of Steve Weiner’s (RIP) posts on the subject, but the gear ratios I’ve seen are all over the map. The RS first and second gear have my eye. The car is largely track purposed, but it’s street legal and in addition to driving the car to and from the track, it haunts the streets of Cape Cod from time to time.
I did install the MPL clutch slave while the car was on the lift. And we changed out the transmission fluid to try and avoid further damage. As expected, there were metal filings and a tip of a gear tooth on the magnetic drain plug. I also swapped out the 4 mm rear spacers for 5 mm spacers (to stop the occasional rubbing on the control arms under load). The 275 tires run perilously close to the rear fenders, but no issues driving on the street as yet.
So I have a few months to reflect, and plan a proper re-gear for the car.
My trusted mechanic is too backed up to work on the transmission right now. The plan is to do a full re-gear in the Fall, with steel synchros. I’ve already started doing my homework, and would greatly appreciate any input or advice from others who have been down this path. I’m considering replacing first gear. It’s not cheap, but back in 2020 we noted that the main shaft was pitted. There’s been no leaking, but it may be a good time to replace the gear and the input shaft that file together…
If you have any suggestions or advice on gear ratios, please let me know. I’ve read many of Steve Weiner’s (RIP) posts on the subject, but the gear ratios I’ve seen are all over the map. The RS first and second gear have my eye. The car is largely track purposed, but it’s street legal and in addition to driving the car to and from the track, it haunts the streets of Cape Cod from time to time.
I did install the MPL clutch slave while the car was on the lift. And we changed out the transmission fluid to try and avoid further damage. As expected, there were metal filings and a tip of a gear tooth on the magnetic drain plug. I also swapped out the 4 mm rear spacers for 5 mm spacers (to stop the occasional rubbing on the control arms under load). The 275 tires run perilously close to the rear fenders, but no issues driving on the street as yet.
So I have a few months to reflect, and plan a proper re-gear for the car.
#896
Foxman, any thoughts towards picking up a spare transaxle, installing that to keep Wilbur mobile while you leave the original at Bill’s in Framingham for the desired overhaul and regearing? You could either keep it as a spare when the OG is complete or sell it on again. Chances are it wouldn’t lose value.
Just thinking out loud.
best, John
Just thinking out loud.
best, John
#897
Foxman, any thoughts towards picking up a spare transaxle, installing that to keep Wilbur mobile while you leave the original at Bill’s in Framingham for the desired overhaul and regearing? You could either keep it as a spare when the OG is complete or sell it on again. Chances are it wouldn’t lose value.
Just thinking out loud.
best, John
Just thinking out loud.
best, John
The current thinking is to leave the car at Eurotech in the dead of winter, and while it’s there have them fabricate a crash bar for the rear of the car. A carbon fiber rear bumper from Getty will shed a few more pounds off the rear. It will also allow me to mount another pair of tow hook mounts at the rear of the car for towing.
#898
Went for a ride this morning, and came home to change the oil. It went a bit like the Exxon Valdez. I did manage to install a new oil pipe without incident. First gear continues to take some finesse. But the car runs like a bat out of hell. Looking forward to the re-gear this winter, and getting back out on the track.
Oil change went smoothly
Removing the oil pipe was far easier than expected. No need for new hoses.
New RS oil pipe installed.
Oil change went smoothly
Removing the oil pipe was far easier than expected. No need for new hoses.
New RS oil pipe installed.