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question: adjust rear toe with 935 Springplates

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Old 01-27-2018, 06:09 PM
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koenig_roland
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Default question: adjust rear toe with 935 Springplates

hi guys,
my car has full monoballs including 935 springplates. After a rebuild of the front (manual steering rack, elefant tie rods) i am in the process of doing an alignment job (via strings) by myself. I have to re-adjust the rear toe (i have toe out at the moment). Before i am doing something at the rear end of the car, i`d like to have an answer for the question about the functionality of the rear 935 style springplates.



This springplates are said, to ensure a separation of toe and camber adjustment.
Does someone has any experiences, if this is true? Is camber realy not affected, when i change the toe settings?

Regarding toe changes: i guess, i have to loosen the left and the right hex and then, i can adjust the toe with the middle hex. is that true or do i have to remove the head of the springplate to lenghten or shorten the springplate?

Thx for clarification.. Best reards

Thilo
Old 02-07-2018, 06:37 AM
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koenig_roland
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nobody?

I guess, i can adjust the toe (relatively independent from camber) with adjusting the length of the unibal - eye... Any other suggestions?

Do i have to detach the eye from the tub or is this doable, with adjusting the shell between the the spring-plate itself and the unibal-eye?

thx

best regards

thilo
Old 02-07-2018, 11:03 AM
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cobalt
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These appear to be the ERP 935 style spring plates with boots. I have them on my track car.

Going from memory. First you have the monoball with a threaded shaft. The first nut is a jam nut that threads onto the threaded rod portion of the monoball. The second is actually the end of a threaded adjustment shaft. This is threaded inside and out and allows for toe adjustment. This is threaded into the spring plate itself. The third nut is also a jam nut.

Loosen the two jam nuts and this will allow you to make adjustments to the toe both -/+ by turning the center nut. Once you adjust to the desired adjustment tighten both jam nuts to retain setting and double check your numbers as they can easily move when tightening. As far as camber IIRC you mount the slot on top for more than -1.5 of camber.

I did not use the boots on my track car I have seen as many issues with the boot as without. I have seen these trap moisture and dirt inside actually accelerating corrosion.

Rear toe is a personal preference. I set my back end at ever so slight toe in. I find it gives the car better feel at speed and makes the back end less twitchy. Toe out will make the back end IMO unsettled feeling. You will get some tire scrub on the outside of the tire on track with toe in.
Old 02-07-2018, 12:47 PM
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koenig_roland
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@Anthony
perfect thanks!

Last year, i left the initial alignemt job to my workshop, so i was just hoping rear adjustment is working in the way, you described here... perfect explanation for me. thx!

I have nearly 3° camber front and roughly 2,5° rear.. thats what i had already last year and tire wear was fine so far...
Front toe should be set to zero and rear toe has to be a little bit of toe in in my imagination... toe out sounds strange, but i have to say that the car handles fine... a little bit tail happy (for a C4) but fine... I will change this to toe in and check the behavior out...

regards

thilo
Old 02-08-2018, 12:49 AM
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Spyerx
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You'll want the plates installed upside down as Anthony mentions as you'll be running aggressive camber. The eccentric on the plate adjusts the camber, the bolt as Anthony describes the toe. IIRC, rough set camber, set toe, then camber, then check toe again, them camber... etc. I run about 1.5-2mm toe in in the rear and 3-3.5 camber in rear. DO NOT run Toe out unless you like the back end rotating on you... FAST. On Front I like neutral or a tick of toe in, toe out in the front turns in nice but can give a mid corner push on exit.
Old 02-08-2018, 06:09 AM
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koenig_roland
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
You'll want the plates installed upside down as Anthony mentions as you'll be running aggressive camber. The eccentric on the plate adjusts the camber, the bolt as Anthony describes the toe. IIRC, rough set camber, set toe, then camber, then check toe again, them camber... etc. I run about 1.5-2mm toe in in the rear and 3-3.5 camber in rear. DO NOT run Toe out unless you like the back end rotating on you... FAST. On Front I like neutral or a tick of toe in, toe out in the front turns in nice but can give a mid corner push on exit.
yep!
i have the springplates and the whole unibal stuff already installed for one year and ran the aggressive camber for one year... So, the slotted hole should be adjusted to the right direction... interesstingly, i had toe out at the rear (2mm) and the car was a blast last year... a little bit nervous, but is was gread. I did the Nuerburg Ring several times, Redbull Ring, Hockenheim, Spa and some fast street driving and it was really good... Despite the good behavior, i will adjust rear toe in.

I installed manual steering over the winter and used the elefant bump steer tie rods... Now, i have really no rubber in my whole suspension anymore and want to adjust the camber and toe by myself with the string method... that`s why i am asking about the behavior of the rear spring plates...
Old 02-08-2018, 03:08 PM
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Vandit
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I discussed these plates extensively in one of my old suspension threads.
Old 02-15-2018, 08:22 AM
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koenig_roland
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it works in the described manner. Perfect guys... sadly, there is really no independent correction of toe and camber... adjusting toe does affect the camber and vice versa.. The spring-plates were not assembled correctly, because of the different length of the both threads on both sides of the adjustment-shaft .. in the end, i was not able to adjust the toe with the thread at the unibal eye, without loosen the spring-plate completely and doing a base-adjustment of the spring-plate to have the ability to adjust the length with the adjustment-shaft..



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