Mike S

In about a month I'll pull my motor out and do a budget rebuild (assuming nothing catastrophic has happened). I'm debating grouting the block at that time. I've ordered a TO4E and I should be capable of around 400HP at the crank.....probably 350 crank for daily driving.

At this power level is engine grouting worth it?

How much cylinder movement is there on these motors?

Any specs for how deep it should be done?

Which grout (is there one for aluminum motors?)?

Bill

For a daily driver, I would think that a 100% functional cooling jacket would be more important. That is, if you are into long term service.

Kinda like putting Carillo rods into mom's Volvo when it is only going to spin 5,500 rpm.

dand86951

There are a bunch of 350 hp 2.5 cars that seem to run fine without it. If you are going big bore with liners the extra rigidity might be worth it. I don't think cooling would be a problem as the 3.0L blocks have much less water cavity volume than the 2.5.

Mike S

From what I've read the 3.0L blocks basically have the lower part grouted(it's not actually grouted, but filled in with Al). If you think about it the lower part of the cylinder is fairly cool compared to where ignition takes place, so the cooling effect should be minimized as long as the grout level is fairly low. However, after reading through the archives I've only found one person who has done this and I can't find any information regarding the clyinder flex and how its related to head gasket failure/clyinder wall loading. If there isn't any more information out there, I think I'll play it safe for now.

Matt Sheppard

A deckplate is a better solution for cyl. flex, but more expensive. Performance Developments in the final stages of development of an interferance-fit deckplate. Unfortunately it will prob. necessitate CNC machining the block to get the proper fit (more $$). I think rage or someone in Canada grouted his block (?).

BC

More info on that deck plate Matt?

BC

With a bored block, such as the 106mm sleeved engines, the deck plate must be welded. Any info on that.

My point is that with the 106mm sleeved stickin thier lips over the edge of the origonal bore, where would the plate go?

Bill

The thing about cooling is the greater the surface area, the better the heat transfer. Most of the 3 liter blocks were naturally aspirated. Turbos produce way more heat. I also like the idea of installing a deck plate. Make it rigid where it counts, added head gasket sealing surface, and keep your cooling jacket.

m42racer

Call PD and ask them. The Deck Plates are finished. Each block is CNC machined to fit the plate. As for the 106.00 bore, I have no info on this. If the liner fits, then the deck plate will not be affected. BTW, there is no welding on any plates. All fits are zero fits and the plate is at the btm and the head clamps it down.

David Floyd

I sure would like to have that deck plate installed, but just not feasible to send my block to them. Oh well

Tom M'Guinn

Garrity used to make a deck plate, and weld it in to his sleeved motors. As for cooling the lower portion of the cylinder on the 3 liter motors, I assume the oil squirters in the 968 helped to offset the reduced water cooling in the lower part of the cylinders.

Mike S

Ahh....the oil squirters, forgot about them. That's a good point!

inactiveuser92616

so what exactly is decking the block? is it just making a second head gasket out of metal... or what?

BoostGuy951

Think of a plate of metal, with four holes in it, one for each of the cylinders. It fits inside the water jacket around the cylinders and adds rigidity to keep the Cylinders from moving. This is done to engines with open decked blocks, ie Honda, Porsche, but not Chevy 350, since it is a closed deck design and the cylinders are bored out of a solid block of metal.

inactiveuser92616

hmmm K....
but doesnt water and oil need to flow up into the head as well? wouldnt this plate prevent any fluid transfer from the block up into the head? ........