Thom

I ran this camshaft some years ago and spent much time doing all sorts of adjustments trying to get it to work and the bottom line is it is not suited at all for a low compression 944 turbo engine. It has too much overlap which causes too much of a compression leak, even under boost. Said differently, it is way too aggressive. Going back to the stock 9R camshaft is the best thing you can do and add an adjustable pulley to find the best cam timing setting for your particular engine.

ealoken

Applikation : Road


Duration: : 272
Peak timing: : 112
Valve lift: : 12,0
Lift at TDC: : 0,9
Valve timing: : 24/68 - 68/24

I think this may be one problem, but you need to either do a lot of tuning on the street or go to a dyno.

Thom

This is originally a NA camshaft profile and as I found out at my own costs it does not work on a turbo engine. Sorry to say but you are wasting your time. Sell it to a NA guy, which is what I did. It is a drop-in replacement in oval dash NA cars.

DLS

Ok, this was the cam DBilas recommended for me.
I had the Early NA cam before and i think this is a little better.
The car worked better last year with mafkit and the DBilas cam.

Thom

The early NA camshaft is the 5R, also used as the standard turbo camshaft.
What you need is the 9R camshaft, which is the late NA camshaft.

DLS

Sorry i meant i had the late 9R.

shortyboy

If youre on base Ignition MAP, i would start modifying it. As some stated, its very conservative. Which means theres more power left to make.

Touringshoe

Hi guys,
Did an engine, turbo, harness, exhaust, flywheel, clutch and a few other mods to my 87 951 DE car. Thought I could just get going with VEMS for startup.

The car has the TTV 60-2 flywheel and stage 3 clutch. 944crazy got the car running with the speed ref sensor swap advice. Had an issue with a bad FI connector which we replaced and it runs on all 4 consistently now.
The car has no ICV
Running deka 80 lb injectors

Tried to start tuning her this week. Installed a separate 02 that reports to an AFR gauge for reference. In addition to the wideband for VEMS
So the car starts and will not maintain idle. Have had to use the throttle cable to adjust keep her steady at about 1200 rpm, and in that area it goes in and out of rich/lean for the first few minutes finally resting pegged lean at 1.83 Lambda. just realizing prob a bad idea to do that given the dependence of vems on TPS?
Problem is, the independent AFR guage is showing rich the entire time at 10.2-10.5 which is accurate based on my sut observation of the new 4" exhaust and of course the simplicity of it.

I know the wideband is ok as we just recalibrated it, TPS is at 12 as opposed to 0 off throttle because of my buddy fiddling with the throttle cable so TPS has to be recalibrated..
What about start idle? I saw 2 logs on here already with different settings for that?

I'll put yesterday's log up and if anyone can help please chime in. thnks

vems log 9/12/19
.

Droops83

Why are you adjusting the throttle cable and not using the idle air bypass adjustment screw in the throttle body? Reset the TPMS and use the screw until you get a steady idle. If you don't have an idle valve you will need to keep your foot in it until the engine warms up.

Make sure your reqfuel settings is correct in the VEMS setup menu according to the instructions. Once that is set and the idle good, you can start tuning the cells of the VE table in the idle area, then autotune, etc. Get a professional to help if you don't know what you are doing!

Touringshoe

Chris, until yesterday it wasn't running steady enough to even use the adjustment screw. We should be able to tomorrow though. Reqfuel is where it should be at 5.4 based on calculations from VEMS
I have help from a mechanic (professional) and I intend to get it advanced tuned but gotta get it driving first. Not all mechanics are familiar with VEMS. Tuners some, mechanics not many.

Droops83

Why did you eliminate the idle control valve? Is this a track car? I see that you live in Scottsdale, and I imagine that you'd want A/C if this is a street car, and you really need an ICV with A/C.

Exactly where are your VEMS and extra Wideband sensors installed? Are you sure there are no exhaust leaks affecting the readings?

Anyway, I remember the VEMS base map being quite lean, and once I was sure all of my settings were correct (and that I had no vacuum leaks!), I simply adjusted cells in the idle area until it ran smoothly, then did autotune runs. The nice thing about using Lambda instead of AFR is that it is easy to calculate your required VE values---if your idle lambda is 1.10, then you are 10% lean. Simply adjust that cell by 10% and you should be close.

But first get your TPS adjusted properly! The speed/density (MAP-based) fuel model depends on an accurate TPS signal.

shortyboy

Since you have a TTV flywheel, I would verify that you have the proper trigger wheel settings and that it's seeing TDC properly. Verify timing also. Also, check that you don't have any vacuum leaks and that you have a good vacuum signal to VEMS ECU MAP sensor.

DLS

How much have you changed your ignition map?
Care to share it?

Touringshoe

DLS

Sam i noticed that you have raised the ignition quite a bit from basemap at 1200,1600 and 2000rpm below 100kpa.
Why did you do that, do it run cooler with more advance?