When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Edit: yes, I took a look, it runs terrible on a NA
I figured it out I think. IAC was not set up correctly, will post solution later.
Sorry if this is inappropriate, being a solution for a NA 8V - But this thread is very active and there are some similarities between 8V NA & turbo, so it was my best shot.
-> basically an ascending line from 0-90% RefDC. I think this should be the other way round and the solenoid channel further up should be inverted, but same difference, right?
Stock setting was a more or less flat line - so it was either not set up correctly at all or the early 2-wire ICV works very differently.
throttle is a bit jerky when cold, and it needs optimisation, but it's staying on when started cold, it's what's important!
Edit:
I would like to use different injectors in the future, could I use e.g. Bosch 0280155831 which have a 12 Ohm resistance vs. the stock 2.35 Ohm resistance with VEMS?
Edit: yes, I took a look, it runs terrible on a NA
I figured it out I think. IAC was not set up correctly, will post solution later.
Sorry if this is inappropriate, being a solution for a NA 8V - But this thread is very active and there are some similarities between 8V NA & turbo, so it was my best shot.
Car starts and runs fine for approximately 3 minutes then shuts off.
I can immediately restart the car,again it runs fine for a few minutes and then shuts off. I have replaced the DME relay with the same result. So what I did then I hooked up a test light to the fuel pump and verified that power is being interrupted to the fuel pump.The question is why?
Hoping the Brain trust here will have something else for me to try and diagnose what's going on here thanks
Car starts and runs fine for approximately 3 minutes then shuts off.
I can immediately restart the car,again it runs fine for a few minutes and then shuts off. I have replaced the DME relay with the same result. So what I did then I hooked up a test light to the fuel pump and verified that power is being interrupted to the fuel pump.The question is why?
Hoping the Brain trust here will have something else for me to try and diagnose what's going on here thanks
Does it shut off only while driving, or will it do this while idling in neutral? Sudden cut of power like a switch, or does it stumble and stall like running out of gas?
It would be a good idea to make a log of this happening, and post a video of it here---- we might be able to see what is dropping out.
Yeah it shuts off both driving and idling doesn't really matter.
It's it's definitely cutting power to the fuel pump and running out of gas but then it will start right back up I can hear the fuel pump spin up when I turn the key
Here's the picture of the last log file
I'm I'm dead in the water at this point I'm out of ideas
Post a video of that log, what's all that rippling at the end? I wonder if you have an alternator on the fritz (bad diode leaking AC voltage) causing everything to shut down . . . .
Post a video of that log, what's all that rippling at the end? I wonder if you have an alternator on the fritz (bad diode leaking AC voltage) causing everything to shut down . . . .
Rippling at the end is the running out of fuel and car shutting off. It will immediately restart like nothing ever happened and repeat the same cycle. After I changed "pump off after inactivity" to 1.57 from 0.57 car seemed to run minutes longer.
I've verified that the FP is losing power when the car shuts off with a test light at the terminals on the FP. Light solid then goes out, car shuts off.
I'm going to run a hot lead straight to the FP and try that.
Rippling at the end is the running out of fuel and car shutting off. It will immediately restart like nothing ever happened and repeat the same cycle. After I changed "pump off after inactivity" to 1.57 from 0.57 car seemed to run minutes longer.
I've verified that the FP is losing power when the car shuts off with a test light at the terminals on the FP. Light solid then goes out, car shuts off.
I'm going to run a hot lead straight to the FP and try that.
It’s not normal for all of the signals to ripple like that. My gut feeling is that you are getting AC voltage out of the alternator due to a faulty diode, which can wreak havoc on DC electronics. The DME eventually shuts down, and because it controls the signal to the fuel pump side of the relay, the fuel pump also shuts down.
Use a multimeter and switch it to the AC voltage setting. It is best to check voltage at the back of the alternator, but because this is difficult on a 951 with an A/C compressor and cooling shroud, you can check at the battery terminals. Normally, the AC voltage should be next to zero, but I suspect that you will find a volt or more.....
It’s not normal for all of the signals to ripple like that. My gut feeling is that you are getting AC voltage out of the alternator due to a faulty diode, which can wreak havoc on DC electronics. The DME eventually shuts down, and because it controls the signal to the fuel pump side of the relay, the fuel pump also shuts down.
Use a multimeter and switch it to the AC voltage setting. It is best to check voltage at the back of the alternator, but because this is difficult on a 951 with an A/C compressor and cooling shroud, you can check at the battery terminals. Normally, the AC voltage should be next to zero, but I suspect that you will find a volt or more.....
just checked 0 AC at battery. Will try to ask Peep for some help.
Spent a little time in the garage this morning and verified that the car will now run non stop with the FP wired directly. Obviously this is not a correct or permanent fix for safety reasons. So this confirms that for some reason the VEMS is stopping power to the FP. I'll poke around in the menus, but I'm the first to admit to being a NOOB
For anyone that has gotten wasted spark after going to VEMS, does the Bosch wasted spark (https://www.vems.com/ignition/bosch-motorsport-2x2.html) come with ignition wires? I have VEMS that did not come with wasted spark, and I'm looking into switching to wasted spark as well. I'm also doing a parts order, so I just need to know if I should include wires in that list or if the unit already covers that. Thanks.
I had to get custom leads made up as living down under and needing quickly was only option. The ends at the new Bosch ignition units lead connections are different to the old distributor. Rather than order the leads Peep sends, which I couldn't source locally quickly, I got a set made which he had ready next day and at lengths to suit my mounting of Bosch unit. I think I paid $100
For anyone that has gotten wasted spark after going to VEMS, does the Bosch wasted spark (https://www.vems.com/ignition/bosch-motorsport-2x2.html) come with ignition wires? I have VEMS that did not come with wasted spark, and I'm looking into switching to wasted spark as well. I'm also doing a parts order, so I just need to know if I should include wires in that list or if the unit already covers that. Thanks.
I used audi 5000 ignition wires for that type wasted spark coil. 2.2L 1978-1986. There's a few for cheap on ebay, $20. I also went with a custom set made by Magnecor for $120.
12-17-2019, 12:20 PM
