darenchu

Some of you may know that I was recently doing the torque tube swap. In the process I broke all the bolts on the stock wastegate. I hesitated, but went for the TiAL F38.

After a couple weeks under the car slowly putting everything back together with new parts and new hardware, I finally finished last weekend.

I sealed the wastegate downpipe flange and vented to atmosphere via dump pipe.

I made sure to get the 0.7 bar spring and hooked up the hose to the side port in single port mode. Basically like stock configuration with cyclic valve and stock chips.

After warming up for 10-15 minutes, I moderately test drove the car around town and the wastegate was opening fine

I decided to push the car a little harder and things were looking good in 1st and 2nd gear shifting at 4k-5k rpm.

At 3rd gear when I got to around 4-5k rpm I heard the wastegate sputtering.. hesitating to open. I thought nothing of it but slowed down.

The next time, at 3rd gear the wastegate opened for a few seconds and then I heard a loud bang, followed by billowing white smoke. I immediately let off the gas and my oil pressure gauge was reading 0 with the light on. Simultaneously, as I was rolling to a side street I heard what sounded like my downpipe dragging on the ground (I thought my downpipe broke off and my oil pan cracked).

I looked underneath the car and oil was everywhere. The downpipe was in tact and the oil pan looked okay (from what I could see). I saw oil dripping from the batwing so I looked into the engine bay. The engine bay looked normal.. except for a small amount of fresh oil pooling in the area under the fuel rail toward the front of the car.

Needless to say I had it towed to my local shop and they're going to find out what happened tomorrow.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the wastegate spring installed wasn't the 0.7bar spring, as my stock gauge was reading ~1.5 bar when I heard the wastegate dumping. Did I experience overboost?

I don't know exactly what happened but from my quick research it seems like I threw a rod... (I hope not)

Is this the worst case scenario? What's the best case scenario?

I'm assuming I need a new engine... Does anyone know what the cost is looking like for a new 944 turbo S engine?

What are my options now?

I knew I should have checked the spring before I installed the WG.

odonnell

If you lost oil pressure I'd start looking at the oil cooler console area, maybe the front oil galley freeze plug, and the front main seal. Maybe you had boost pressurizing the crank case.

Edit, realized oil is on top of the engine. Head gasket blow out?

SamGrant951

Its been awhile since I have paid attention to the stock boost gauge but from memory ~1.5bar is prob right for a .7 spring as 1bar on the gauge = atmospheric pressure. You are really reading the 1-2 on the gauge as 0-15psi IIRC.

darenchu

It seems my fears were right. The piston smashed through the bottom of the block...

When I get a chance I'll take some pics to see if its worth parting or selling as a shell.

lart951

if it's 88 turbo S i'll be interested in the whole car i pay top dollar for the right car. Contact me at la951sales@earthlink.net

darenchu

WP0AA2954JN151763 Yep it's a 88 951S

lart951

good once you decided what to do let me know, you will probably make more money parting it yourself, but for some parts you will have to sit for a while, plus dealing with selling, packing, shipping, claims etc etc I can take that burden away,

darenchu

I hate to part(heh) with the car but maybe its better to cut my losses...
On one hand all I need is a new engine to have it running again...
on the other hand,
I need a whole damn engine to have it running again.
The car is pretty much perfect for the street and weekend track duty otherwise..
It's all very conflicting to go through this just as 951S prices are steadily climbing up.
Here are some mods I could think of off the top of my head:

Spec 2 Clutch
oil pickup mod
Safety Devices roll bar
Schroth 5 point harnesses
Ground Control top-mount Camber plates,
strut brace,
Bilstein full coil over suspension,
Charlie Arms,
968 MO30 sway bars and brake cooling scoops,
adjustable rear sway bar,
Elephant Racing Camber blocks
Fabspeed 3" stainless exhaust with Cat bypass
Well prepared for DE/track, legal for street.
17" Fiske FM 10
Black Sea R&D new drive shaft
Black Sea R&D rebuilt torque tube w/ super bearings (4)
Only944 short shifter, lever, and linkage
Works Bell quick release + Nardi deep corn 350mm wheel W. custom embossed leather horn button
TWM Motorsports 7" competition shifter
Nardi prestige mahogany shift ****
saratoga top (pilkington) & Original top
Stainless steel sill plates
XS Performance LED headlights
Hella E-Codes included w. 100w/130w bulbs
French domestic market OEM yellow fog/driving lights
Original leather seats + split seat back
TiAL F38mm Wastegate + Adapters
Lindsey Racing MBC (brand new in box never used)
Wink Mirror
Side mirror delete doors

darenchu

neunfünfeins

Sorry this happened to you man, really a shame.
I would encourage you to sleep on it a few nights before making a decision.
With everything you have invested in the car, seems to me that you would be ahead financially and effort-wise to just put another motor in it, rather than start all over. Slight chance the head is salvagable and then all you'd need is a short block.

Does anyone think this was related to the wastegate or spring? I'm not understanding how based on the gauge readings and modest rpms involved... one hell of an unfortunate coincidence though if not.

lart951

I have some good engines 60 days money back guaranteed

black944 turbo

Agreed, it sounds like a good car to throw an engine in and continue to enjoy it.

odonnell

I have a 951 ('86) block you can have for free if you pay shipping (and my time for packaging). It has some very minor scratches on the bores, but I've seen way worse. Car was a daily. I also have an oil pan and sintered rods if you want them for cheap. I have 3 group 0 pistons and 1 group 1 piston a well. Block is in the car still and it may be a while before I get around to pulling it completely. Or, you could drive to TX, help me pull it, and drive back with it I have a hoist.

Auto_Werks 3.6

I might be interested in the whole car as it sits if you decide to go that way. Sorry about your misfortune. If you continue forward with the car, definitely add an aftermarket boost gauge... Also, I'm not sure that using the stock cycling valve is conducive to going with the Tial wastegate. you should be able to hook a 0.7 or 0.8 bar tial straight to the intercooler pipe and let the WG spring regulate boost.

raleighBahn

Any idea yet if the Tial and the engine failure are directly related?

Question for everyone - do the Tial and the stock wastegate fail in the same manner?