Dougs951S

What's the proper break in procedure for a fully rebuilt engine that got the works?

The cam and lifters are old, but other than that it'll be fully rebuilt. Bores were lapped with AN-30.

What oil should I run? I've never broken in a new engine before so forgive my ignorance. I know this has been answered before too but technology always marches on so I figured I'd ask again to get an up to date answer.

I was sort of planning on starting it (once it built oil pressure) and letting it idle for 20 minutes with some cheap *** 10w40 in the crankcase; then change the oil and filter, fill with 15w50 synthetic and go beat the **** out of it with boost at 15 psi.

Raceboy

Use cheapest mineral oil for startup, run it until warm without driving (give it some mid revs, like 2000-3000 few times), then change oil and filter to some mineral and drive it few hundred miles, give it good load (full throttle), not particularly to redline, but to 5000 is good enough.
Observe engine behaviour during runs (smoke, leaks etc).

After that change oil to the best synthetic you can find.

Dougs951S

What's the word on "break in" oil or additive? I planned to use cheap mineral oil anyway, but some people say to use expensive special break in or or such.

Should I change the filter again too when I change the oil the second time at ~300-400 miles? When is the motor "fully" broken in and ready to be ran hard? As I understand it, running a synthetic in our motors effectively "stops" the break in process so I shouldnt switch to my normal 15w50 until the motor is fully ready to rip.

I also understand its normal for a freshly rebuilt turbo engine to smoke some under load for a short while? How many miles can I expect smoking under load before it becomes indicative of an issue?

Raceboy

Yes, each time with filter.

Never used any of the break-in additives etc, just regular mineral oil. If you run it good then rings should be seated after few hundred miles.

I am not sure about the turbo smoking, imo turbo should not smoke at all...

gruhsy

I used break in oil on mine. Worked well for me. I think you get a better quality oil than the typical shelf oils that are available in Canada and US. Not sure about Europe.

FYI when you buy Chevron, ESSO...Exxon, Petro Canada, Shell, Quaker State etc etc. It all runs through the same pipe lines from the source.

I think the smaller companies put a lot more effort into producing a better quality oil. As in all the oils that most people use on here for synthetics.

And no I am not saying use synthetic on breakin for anyone miss reading my post.

Raceboy

I use Motul 300V 20W60 LeMans, pretty much the best oil out there, it is esther-based and one of few that is truly the same oil that is in fact used by racing teams.

JustinL

This is pretty much the break in procedure I used. I have heard the trick is to rev it up heavy on the throttle and then coast off throttle to slow the car down while in gear. Something like 3rd gear 2500 hard up to 5000, decel in gear back to 2500, hard up to 5000, repeat 10 times.

Dougs951S

OK guys, thanks for the input. Cheap Autozone brand 10w40 it is for break in and first 500 miles, then I'll switch to my normal 15w50 full synthetic. This is going to be fun, I'm excited. The motor should be finished in the next two weeks.

rlm328

I would consider a single weight oil as they do not have any detergents for a break in oil. There are several oils out specifically made for break in, Joe Gibbs, Lucas and Royal Purple all make break in oil. You can order the Lucas from Summit or the Royal Purple is sold by Jegg's and O'Reilly's.

944hal

Most interested in this thread. I'm just putting a FULLY rebuilt motor back in my car. Probably a couple of days away from startup. In the past, I've just used an off the self oil for a weekend, limit my RPM max to around 5,500, then change to my regular racing oil. I've never used a true break in oil. This time I'm going to use Millers CRO 10W40 mineral run in oil. I'm hoping to get an afternoon at a private track and run the car easy for a couple of hours, not exceeding 5,500 RPM, but easily accelerating and de-accelerating to seat the rings. Then I'll change the oil and filter and go with the Millers Racing Oil. I'm not really sure break in oil is required for our motors, but it can't hurt.

Dougs951S

I just got my hands on a whole 24 quart case of el-cheapo 10w40 mineral, so that's what I'm going to be running for the first 500-600 miles. I'll keep this thread updated in the coming weeks.

kev951

i have a write up on this,

Dougs951S

I'd love to see it. I didn't pull it up when I was doing research. Would you mind linking to it?

gruhsy

I ran my car for less than 30 minutes to break in the cam shaft then dumped the oil into a new clean container to check it.

Then ran for 200km and dumped the oil and checked it.

Ran another 800km and dumped it, switched oil type and ran another 1000km and changed.

Went 4000km and changed it. Then went to 10000km changed. Next change 15000km

Went first Joe Gibbs BR oil then switched to XP4 at 1000km. Ran engine on XP4 until about 15000km then switch to Millers 20W50 Nano oil for our engines

URG8RB8

Have people forgotten how to use Google?

928Motorsport Break-In Procedure

Great choice in oil Grushy, I chose the same.