Mike Lindsey

The difference between their steel and alum fly for the 944 Turbo is only 3 pounds. They would have to put, or leave, quite a bit of material on the part perimeter and a lot more machine time hollowing out the back side. That's why the factory was cast most likely. Since they are in the business of making lighter flywheels, I doubt they would be interested in trying to recreate a stock one more or less. Most potential customer would prefer the light unit. And if they think like we at LR do, you don't make a profit making parts you may only sell a hand full a year, or less.


You want a stock weight why?

jmj951

If this new clutch kit is streetable, I'm in for one this year.

V2Rocket

just for street friendly manners without having to overrev or overslip the cluth.
but if the new disc design allows mild manners with a lighter fw...then that'll do.

URG8RB8

I am with Patrick, I want a 60-2 flywheel, calling you now Mike.

hally

thats awesome Patrick!

333pg333

I can't actually rememeber Spencer. I got it some years ago.

Quite likely. We bought the kit as is and used it, knowing it was temporary until the custom f/w was delivered.

I would say there is a market for it, but as Mike points out, is there enough to justify the expense to make a batch? I'd guess finding out from Spec how much they'd charge for eg 10 or 20 and then see if there is sufficient interest to form a group buy.

Thanks Gregor. I know another 'lister in here, Rich Luciano, got one made up by Patrick Racing (no affiliation!). I don't think they're crazy expensive.

V2Rocket

Would imagine the SPEC kit will be able to use the standard ring gear (for the starter), so maybe some kind of "adapter" or "shim" with a 60-2 pattern could be made to bolt behind the stock starter gear, over the OD of the flywheel?

Would be cheaper than making a whole flywheel.

URG8RB8

I don't think this mod would be very expensive at all using the LR Spec Full Aluminum FW as a base. Much cheaper to machine Aluminum. We have a CNC with indexer. Just need to make up a drawing. I am going to do this one way or the other. This is a no Brainer compared to that Clewett system I just bought.

V2Rocket

You mean just cutting 60-2 teeth into the FW itself?
Wait...does a VR sensor work with a non-magnetic (aluminum) tooth?

URG8RB8

Crap, probably not, made a bad assumption that the one Patrick posted was aluminum since everything on his car is lightweight. Well, even if I use a factory one it should not be more than a $100 more than aluminum. Suppose you could drill and tap for ferrous set screws in each tab. Which would add cost but eliminate weight.

Dutch944

So.. If i'm using a Turbo Cup flywheel (also steel) i can't use the new cilinder?

To make this kit work what would be necessary? Can i work with a SPEC stage 3 Turbo clutch/pp? And the only thing i need is a different flywheel and cilinder-setup?
I already bought a new clutch and pp. Got my fw for free so that's no issue but buying a whole clutchkit new would just be throwing away money..

Voith

No it doesn't. Only optic sensor will work with non magnetic material but optic sensor needs sender and receiver..

I find clewett setup very good solution if front pulley is available. Its good quality, wheel is magnetic while it will not rust, fit is awesome and no vodoo needs to be done in order to get to sensor and measure the distance between it and the wheel or see where the missing tooth are. It is also on plain sight so checking of No1 sensor under the hood doesn't require giraffe neck.

The factory setup is in my opinion one of the most pita to work with systems on the car.

They used to only offer magnetic sensor but I think they have hal sensor too now. Magnetic sensors are sensitive to interference. Hal sensor is superior to magnetic sensor since it is less prone to interference and already provides ecu with digital signal instead of analog.

Stock sensors are also magnetic I think. 16V models got hal sensors afaik.

Duke

I did that on the mini twin FW but it didn't give a 100% clean signal so I switched to the front. I don't run balance shafts so I made a trigger on the balance shaft crank wheel and used a high speed hall sensor. Perfect signal.

V2Rocket

Have wondered why no one has just moved the speed/ref sensors to make them more accessible when needed.
Plenty of room on the sides and bottom of the engine to get a good mount for the sensors, and you could just add a new screw to the FW for the new location.

16v got a hall sensor on the camshaft but AFAIK is just for finding TDC.

Does your ECU have options for tooth count?
Could you just count the teeth on the 944 sprocket and tell the ECU to run with that?

I recall some LS1 guys have used the 944 camshaft gear bolted to the transaxle output as a VSS wheel because the tooth count matched.

Voith

Sensors could probably be moved but again its a lot of work to get everything aligned and working while on cw setup its only 6 bolts and everything is where it should be rock solid. I wouldn't want to go with toothed fw even if itwas free. Unless I'd really need front space for something else..