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Old 09-12-2003 | 02:56 AM
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Ok, heres my problem. I have been researching some Stand Alone Engine Management Systems and all the units i find are not what i want. I look at TEC-II & TEC-III, they sound cool tell you get to the part of nor having factory guages working and all these adapters and mods and fabrication needed. I mean this would be OK for race car applications but not for a street car. Im wanting to build a killer street car, pretty much want a street legal race car. But also want the car to look pretty much factory with all the stuff working. IS there any good Piggyback units that allow all the actory guages to function and all that?
Old 09-12-2003 | 03:05 AM
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Check out the engine management system at www.speedforceracing.com It keeps the the factory guages working except the boost guage.
Old 09-12-2003 | 03:11 AM
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Yes, but would like even the boost gauge functional unless there is a aftermarket guage face available that has a boost gauge delete so you cant notice.
Old 09-12-2003 | 03:36 AM
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First off... get a gauge cluster that doesn't have the boost gauge. Its' a piece of junk anyway.

Second, (shamless plug) I've got a brand new Haltek system for sale. And it's a very good stand alone setup. Complete with all the sensors, and wiring harness, and more...
Old 09-12-2003 | 10:05 AM
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It's not that difficult to have all the factory guages work with a standalone engine management. The SDS system I use is incredibly simple and featureless and I have all my factory gauges working (including the boost gauge- which is quite accurate on my car).
Really, it's not difficult.
Old 09-12-2003 | 10:24 AM
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Russ, how did you make the boost guage work?
Old 09-12-2003 | 10:35 AM
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Left the KLR in with only power and ground and the guage output connected.
Like I said, it's not very difficult and I'm a electronic moron.
Old 09-12-2003 | 10:51 AM
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Ha, good idea, my '86 doesn't have a KLR or a KLR wiring loom plug. So that want help me I hate looking at that dead boost gauge.
Old 09-12-2003 | 10:57 AM
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Where did the boost gauge get it's voltage before it was altered? I'm unfamiliar with KLR-free 951's.
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:04 AM
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I'm sure you could drive the boost gauge with a spare PWM output. In fact, you could even put a new face on it with a different scale. Accuracy shouldn't be a problem, since it will feed the gauge from the ECU's MAP sensor and you can calibrate it with a MAP/gauge voltage lookup table. If you don't think your MAP sensor is accurate, you should probably put your toys away and go home.

The Motec M4 can definitely do this, but you may run short of PWM outputs when you get all set up. The stock IAC needs two and the cycling valve need another. The tachometer needs another, but many systems have a dedicated tachometer PWM circuit.

The Motec M800 has enough PWM outputs to run all of that plus water injection, secondary injectors, and a coffee maker. Though the US dollar has tanked recently, you can still save a bunch of money on the M800 by giving Motec USA the big one digit salute and buying the system from an Australian retailer via an Australian friend.
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:09 AM
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Motec Now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout.
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:25 AM
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Originally posted by Russ Murphy
Motec Now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout.
Why waste your time screwing around with halfway solutions.

$1.00 AUS = $0.66 US.

Check out the prices on Motec gear in Australia:

http://www.capa.com.au/prices_capa_performance.htm

Just make sure you've read up on Motec's site and understand what parts and options you need. The beauty of the Motec system is it can drive ALL of the stock parts without any conversion circuits or replaced parts. Their M800 systems can even work with egas and dual variable valve control systems.

If you shop around, especially in Australia, you will find that the Motec prices aren't that outrageous. Even Motec USA is selling a complete plug and play M4 Honda kit with harness for something like $2400 US.

Of course, back to the original question, once you get the system installed, you will need a considerable amount of time and/or money to get the system working properly.
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:35 AM
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Steve, I've been considering going Standalone, and that Motec M800 unit is one of my top options. I looked at CAPA's price list, and there are about a billion (exagerration) options available for it. I'm not familiar enough with it to know what I'd need to run a 951 - it looks like though I'd at least want data logging and wideband o2, and that already ups the price by 1k - what else would I need? With those add-ons, the price could potentially triple!

Sam
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:46 AM
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Try the Link 2 system. It plugs up to all your factory sensors. Comes with complete terminated harness ready to use. Start up map is included for 944T and price is around $ 1900.00. Can be sequential if you want with multi coils too. Installation time is around 4 hours by end user. Boost gauge will not work, but with full boost control who needs it. You know what boost you will have programmed at each RPM. No better bang for the buck, and ready to use when you get it. If you have a problem, support is here in the US. Buy grey market and you will get zero support.
Old 09-12-2003 | 11:55 AM
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Originally posted by m42racer
Buy grey market and you will get zero support.
Nah. Two day shipping for small items to Australia isn't that much money. These days, overseas phone calls are cheap and email is free. Plus, the Australian guys are open during prime US car tweaking hours. Just don't go crying to Motec USA for support.

If you can't figure out the wiring, make the wiring harness, and do most of the tuning yourself, prepare to pay big money. IIRC, Bill inquired with Jerry Woods about this and he would only do it if he could tune the motor on an engine dyno, and the cost was over $6000.


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