Finally back to a real 60-2 Trigger Setup
#16
Three Wheelin'
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http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/pa...l-porsche-968/
This is the one you mean Patrick, unfortunately they are not suitable for the Turbo and so you get a smaller flywheel which means it can hold less power (i think)
This is the one you mean Patrick, unfortunately they are not suitable for the Turbo and so you get a smaller flywheel which means it can hold less power (i think)
#17
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Patrick Motorsports makes a 60-2 fly. I think Rich Luciano bought one from memory. Looks like reasonable costs vs alternatives. http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/
#18
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No, I'm sure Rich got this one made for his 3ltr 8v turbo motor. Despite the obvious question, I have no shares in this company. ;-)
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
#19
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Hope the Clewett piece works!
Even after true'ing on a lathe, this was the best waveform I could get with a crank trigger wheel. There's still vibration of the crank and mounting points that'll cause variation.
![](https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/alxdgr8/IMG_20130612_182057_zpse052f8d9.jpg)
Looking at the CW setup, it's not surprising it didn't work well. That's not a very secure place to put it.
Gap is also critical. Most like gap of 0.025" or less. Also some sensors don't have a perfect symmetrical polar pickup pattern, so sometimes it helps to try rotating the sensor (all while maintaining the correct gap).
Even after true'ing on a lathe, this was the best waveform I could get with a crank trigger wheel. There's still vibration of the crank and mounting points that'll cause variation.
![](https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/alxdgr8/IMG_20130612_182057_zpse052f8d9.jpg)
Looking at the CW setup, it's not surprising it didn't work well. That's not a very secure place to put it.
Gap is also critical. Most like gap of 0.025" or less. Also some sensors don't have a perfect symmetrical polar pickup pattern, so sometimes it helps to try rotating the sensor (all while maintaining the correct gap).
I am using the LINK ecu. No cam pickup at this point. One less thing to worry about at the moment. Once i have it all squared away i'll start messing with one.
No, I'm sure Rich got this one made for his 3ltr 8v turbo motor. Despite the obvious question, I have no shares in this company. ;-)
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
#20
Three Wheelin'
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No, I'm sure Rich got this one made for his 3ltr 8v turbo motor. Despite the obvious question, I have no shares in this company. ;-)
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
I actually got the CEP one that Reno mentioned before. They are actually somewhat different.
Just saying that the Clewitt stuff is not bad but probably not a huge difference in price point to a full custom flywheel.
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#21
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I have the same setup for my build, love the craftsmanship. Top notch product IMO.
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/924-931-944-951-968-forum/790872d1388151004-project-turbocharging-944-n-a-the-proper-way-clewett.jpg)
#22
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Yes the gap is key, super close. interesting point on the polar pickup patterns. I am going to have to pay attention to that. I am going to have find a scope so i can run tests again with the Clewett setup.
I am using the LINK ecu. No cam pickup at this point. One less thing to worry about at the moment. Once i have it all squared away i'll start messing with one.
I am using Link and the electromotive hall sensor if i am not mistaken.
Pat as matter of fact right before i got this setup i spoke with Patrick Motorsports and they couldn't help. They didn't have a flywheel that would work with 951 with the 60-2 setup. They told me it was because its not a popular setup and most ppl went with a Clewett setup.
I am using the LINK ecu. No cam pickup at this point. One less thing to worry about at the moment. Once i have it all squared away i'll start messing with one.
I am using Link and the electromotive hall sensor if i am not mistaken.
Pat as matter of fact right before i got this setup i spoke with Patrick Motorsports and they couldn't help. They didn't have a flywheel that would work with 951 with the 60-2 setup. They told me it was because its not a popular setup and most ppl went with a Clewett setup.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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Over the years I have made hundreds of trigger setups, both onto crank pulley and to flywheel. Though why don't you just use stock 951 crank sensors? These work perfectly provided that the sensor wires are not messed up..
#24
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Reno, you could also try what I did. I found the issue wasnt so much the CW trigger mount or the wheel itself, it was also mounting it. I had crank trigger errors but no major runout, so I suspected MegaSquirt issues mostly and difficulty with the small teeth on the crank sized 60-2.
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
#25
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I could have set it up perfectly like you, but if the trigger wheel is wobbly then its no use.
I would still like to compare files as i am always willing to learn more about Link and see different setups.
#26
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What sensor is that and what is in the bags? Just went over to the Clewett site and see the four components but not the sensor and other stuff.
One bag I am guessing is mounting hardware you can see bolts in your pic.
One bag I am guessing is mounting hardware you can see bolts in your pic.
#27
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Reno, you could also try what I did. I found the issue wasnt so much the CW trigger mount or the wheel itself, it was also mounting it. I had crank trigger errors but no major runout, so I suspected MegaSquirt issues mostly and difficulty with the small teeth on the crank sized 60-2.
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
#28
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the bag is the bolts for the setup. that looks like the sensor i have. Its either a mag or a hall sensor. its an electromotive sensor
#29
Race Car
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Reno, you could also try what I did. I found the issue wasnt so much the CW trigger mount or the wheel itself, it was also mounting it. I had crank trigger errors but no major runout, so I suspected MegaSquirt issues mostly and difficulty with the small teeth on the crank sized 60-2.
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
I bought a 36-1 wheel from http://goingsuperfast.com/Trigger-wheels.html
Then I got shoulder bolts from McMaster-Carr, part number 92981A196
The trigger wheel gets sandwiched between the crank gear and the pulley, the shoulder bolts are the same OD as the ID of the holes in the trigger wheel so it can't twist, and the wheel being sandwhiched between the gear and pulley should help stability.
Edit: Jeez, huge images. Look in this folder:
http://thedge.info/rennlist/cranktrigger/index.php
#30
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Right bag contains all needed bolts, other bag is this sensor and matching harness connector. (you can see rubber connector seals in the bag)
http://www.clewett.com/index.php?mai...a307dad6c145f0
I will however use Haltech cherry hall sensor instead since I got it with Haltech setup.
http://www.clewett.com/index.php?mai...a307dad6c145f0
I will however use Haltech cherry hall sensor instead since I got it with Haltech setup.