I received my 968 block via UPS today. There were some metal bits broken off in the bottom of the bag Pretty sure this is the reference sensor bracket.

Photos here:
http://imgur.com/a/mpIYb

Since I'll be using a 951 bracket...

1.) does this even matter?

2.) can this be repaired?

Just trying to figure out whether or not I need a new block. It looks to be otherwise in good shape. Whether there are any other cracks I don't know.

Any help appreciated.

 

The 2.7 block I used for my 3.0 had the right motor mount boss broken off in a crash. Car was totaled so that's how I came by motor. Anyway had it welded by a pro and it's been no issue. Just be sure that you have the bell housing in hand for the welder so he can be sure the surfaces are flat and straight.

 

Well, the bell housing is going to be problematic since the only one I have is in the running car.

What did the welding end up costing you?

It looks like I will need this support after all for the crank/speed sensor bracket, though I'm not 100% sure it's a direct bolt on?

 

Welding is cheap probably $40
Building a 3.0l is not. You'll soon encounter a few more speed bumps...

 

Yikes, what happened there? Was the shipping insured? I'm sure someone could weld it together, but the speed/ref sensor is the pace-maker of your engine, so I'd be inclined to start with a clean block. If you go stand-alone ems, then maybe not as big of a deal assuming the rest of the block checks out, but blocks are so cheap relative to the overall cost of a 3 liter turbo, I would just want zero question marks...but that's maybe just me...

 

On the 951, the crank sensor bracket is adjustable. So even if the weld is fractionally off, you can just sort of adjust the bracket. The hall sensors don't need to be super precise. The piece is also broken off in such a way that it has surfaces to rest against in all 3 dimensions so it should be easy to get it super close.

On the other hand, you're right, this is a bad way to start the build. I expect the thing is insured. The cylinder walls look nice though. It's a shame.

 

Okay. I'll attempt to get this returned. Now I just need to find another 968 block.

 

who would ship an block and let it damage like that, who did you buy that from?

 

Very bad packaging. Ive sent blocks, but packed them in a way you could drop it 2m on concrete and it would survive no problem.

Id want refund and just get a new block.

 

That block could be repaired but it would need t be properly cleaned, prepped and the correct filler rod used, if someone would do that correctly for $40 they are under charging for their work. As is that block is pretty much scrap and repaired it would be worth less than an undamaged block.

 

Ive found the best way to ship a block is to first wrap it in few layers of heavy duty PVC liner then put it in oversize (~10cm in every direction) cardboard box with 10cm sheet of hard styrofoam inserted to bottom, then gap around it is filled with polyurethane foam spray and covered with wood plank. (on the cyl head side)

 

I won't name names at this point in the process but I had purchased other things from them and they came wrapped very well.

The engine block not so well. It was shipped in a double thick cardboard box with about 4" of space on the sides. Maybe more on the top of bottom. Thick hunks of torn up seat foam was loosely placed around the block, which was placed in a plastic bag. The engine was shipped rear side down, timing belt side up. And of course the damage happened on the rear side where it was probably tossed around by UPS on concrete floors because it's heavy as all hell.

The foam was maybe a little too firm and a little too uneven and must not have prevented pressure points.

I'd like more advice on how to ship these things. Seems like attaching thick heavy sheets of dense foam to the block with tape/wrap would be a good start, maybe 2" or so. I'd probably want thick cardboard or even plywood placed around that, whatever distributes the load, and then wrap that in the stronger type of bubble wrap or more dense foam just to bulk it out to 4-6" more.

And I dont think I'd ship it on the end. With the head studs in, shipping stud side down seems super bad as you're landing 100 pounds on the smallest surface area. Crank side seems fragile. I think maybe shipping on one of the sides where the balance shafts are makes the most sense as you're distributing the load over the most surface area.

 

Heh, just to cover all my bases, let's say I switch to a management system that doesn't need the speed/crank sensor. What kind of money and pain am I talking about?

 

Complete block weight rested on that sensor bracket. No wonder it broke.

Any management needs sensors, but there are more elegant solutons, this is one of them: http://www.clewett.com/index.php?mai...products_id=30

Michael Mount also makes beautifull option for front mounted speed sensor.

 

Heh, cripes, that's nearly what I spent on the block. What are the advantages to going that route? Are there real HP/Torque gains? What justifies the expense?