Chuck Henry

I see on the Rogue site that you connect the MAF power to the cycling valve plug. The MAP sensor also needs power, would you connect it there and only run the green/black wire into the cabin?

There is the plug that switches between tunes. Where exactly do you plug that in? I'm thinking to try a tank of E85.

Also, there is the FQS adjustments. I don't have a WB in yet (that's next when I do the exhaust) and was wondering if people at altitude typically have to pull a bit. I was thinking of going with the smallest adjustment for now of -3.6% fueling. Does anyone else at 6-7,000' in elevation have feedback on this?

Everything else is installed and ready to go. Can't wait to finish up the install, maybe tonight with a little luck.

Sixline

No, don't hook the MAP sensor to the 12v cycling valve plug. He has detailed instructions on his website.

http://roguetuning.com/map_sensor_installation

I would probably leave the FQS at position 0 until you get a wideband. No point in playing with fuel when you can't see the results.

The plug to switch tunes is right off the main DME plug. Black plug with brown wires on the right.

Chuck Henry

On the LR website it shows that the green and black wires go to plug #28, but they left off that you tap into plug #9 for power. I'll do that, I should have thought to look at the Rogue write-up but at a glance they looked the same.

(EDIT: I looked again and it's there in the little B&W table, I just missed it)

I'll hold off on the FQS for now. Did you have to adjust yours in Colorado?

mtnman82

Power at the cycling port is the horizontal/top part of the 'T' if you look at the connector that way. Shawn was nice enough to send me a pic via pm I can post with his permission if you'd like. I had power to the map sensor thru the firewall per instructions from A-tune install. The car fired right up after I installed and the plumbing work was reasonable.

Did you get the new setup thru Lindsey, or is this an original setup? Just curious - I recently installed a used original setup but am thinking now I might have waited for the new setup with the multi-tune board setup.

The ultimate would have been to bring the selector switch from the new board out to a switch in the cabin somewhere, so that a valet tune (and a no-start 'tune' would be nice too) could be accessed readily in addition to emissions, race and pump tunes.

For example, if I'm driving my car to the track for a weekend where I'm spending the night at a hotel: It would be real neat to be able to readily select pump gas for the trip down/back, race gas while at the track, and valet (or no start) while at the hotel. Way cool that we can do this now, but it means popping the cover off the DME and the hassle involved with getting to it/putting it back in.

mahoney944

Ive been considering m tune for some time now, however when the po removed the cycling valve they cut away the harness plug. So now I'd have to remove the manifold to fix the wire or run a new 12v source. My wide band uses an extra connection on the bottom of the fuse box for its 12v source. Does anyone know if there is more extra connections on the fuse box. Or an easy 12v source somewhere else that would solve this?

mtnman82

Are the wires are still there for the cycling valve (did he just cut the connector)? If so, just hard wire it.

There's also the round test port in the engine bay driver's side that has switched +12v you could use (between the shock tower and fuse box).

Chuck Henry

I got the LR setup, I am pretty excited about the ability to easily switch between tunes. Even having the two I can swap (Pump/E85 for me) is pretty slick. Run E85 around home but be able to switch in a pinch or on a longer trip.

mtnman82

Yep, I didn't save that much buying it used - it was an impulse when M-tune wasn't available for a while - and I will probably wind up spending whatever I saved 'upgrading' to the new stuff. Hopefully there is a reasonable path for the existing users. Also, with the recent discussion on different transfer functions for different tubes I'm wondering if the new setup has different tunes from the original.

Could you snap a few pics of the install to post? I don't think we've (Rennlist) seen the new setup installed yet.

Sixline

Yeah, I run E85 and rescaled the FQS via the tuner to take out 8.9% fuel. I need to recheck my fuel pressure though as I think it might be too high.

Again though, I would hold off on taking fuel out until you have a wideband.

Chuck Henry

Wish I had a portable unit (like at a dyno) I could use for just setting that up. I'm sure it will run ok even if it's a bit rich.

I've installed most of it, but I'll snap some pictures of the chip itself before sticking it in tonight. I should have thought to document from the beginning, but figured this road had bad traveled a million times by now!

Rogue_Ant

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/M-TUNE.html

Lots of info about the new version.

Having to pull out a little bit of E85 fuel is normal during the 'winter' E85 blend (closer to E70). Pump gas doesn't change as dramatically.

The new software does have a different transfer function. It also has a lot of other software changes & improvements (much of it mentioned on the Lindsey page).

Chuck Henry

Hey Josh, are you going to have a batch of the ECU's done soon?

Rogue_Ant

Still a couple of weeks for the next batch...

Sixline

Joshua,

How can plastic tube users utilize these new tunes? I have your tuner(aka Ostrich) so I would assume I don't need the new chipboard but I don't have the new Lindsey Racing aluminum tube.

Will Lindsey Racing offer some sort of upgrade path?

Rogue_Ant

Good question... I'm working on a solution for those who want to upgrade, but have the original M-Tune setup (not the LR version).