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Well, I got everything installed and it won't start. No idea what it could be, I double checked all the connections. Checked voltage and continuity. Nada. I'm not entirely sure what the next step is, anyone have any ideas?
Just for clarity, it turns over with vigor but doesn't try and start. So either the injectors aren't firing or there isn't any spark. Does the DME control spark? If it doesn't, than it has to be injectors I guess but it seems unlikely they would all be bad. I double checked and it was wire #28 I cut. I did only see 4.X volts on the MAP red wire (guide said it should be 5+) but that was the only thing odd I noticed in checking my connections.
Yep, it's bouncing. Tried swapping the DME relay to. Did the 28 pin conversion too, and I'm pretty good at soldering. Removed the one jumper and installed the other.
Are the wires are still there for the cycling valve (did he just cut the connector)? If so, just hard wire it.
There's also the round test port in the engine bay driver's side that has switched +12v you could use (between the shock tower and fuse box).
They cut the wire as far back as possible I'd have to hard wire a new connection on after finding the wire.
Does any one have a clear pic of exactly where the cycling valve harness meets into the rest of the harness. I'd like to cut back the harness and fix the cut wire for a m tune connection
Does this help? Don't know why but the upload turns the pic 90 degrees That is the harness rubber boot in the pic and of course that is the cycling valve wires and plug
Josh was nice enough to exchange some emails with me as we tried to sort things out. I double and triple checked everything and was totally baffled, then Josh had me put the dip switches to Tune #1. Boom, started right up. I had a lot of running issues with my car and now it works flawlessly! I can't hardly believe how much better it is.
Apparently there are a few hiccups in the transfer from Rogue to LR and one of them was that some of the chips aren't coming completely flashed with all the tunes. Josh is popping a replacement in the mail to me right away and I will then have all my tunes to choose from. If you are getting this yourself, try all pins 'off' before giving up hope!
So, now I can actually hear the turbo and a really cool wastegate titter. Is that normal on these cars? I assume the open element filter is just allowing way more of those noises to come through.
Oh, here is a picture of that jumper I added. I know it's in the installation manuals, but it's always nice to have another high res one to look at if you are doing it yourself. Now that I know that I got it all right the first time, installation really wasn't that bad. Well worth the effort too!
Yep, with an open intake you can hear all sorts of turbo/wastegate noises. On my first 951 with the Greddy boost controller I'd also hear the boost solenoid chirping away under the dash....
You have my core already.
03-13-2015, 11:41 PM
