Thinking about modifying my intercooler
#46
I had to bleed my 8V the same way too. 16V however doesn't seem to be as difficult to bleed. What I have seen is that even when there is only pressurized water, there will still be some steam after revving the engine and also after waiting for a little while. Try to take a drive an bleed again. I have a FMIC about the same size as yours, stock radiator that has never been cleaned by me, and I have never had any issues with heat on idle or on track (although track day was in the 10-15c). Even on a VERY hot summer day (thats 30C in Norway) heat where never a problem driving on the roads with plenty of full boost pulls on 2., 3. and 4. gear. My data logs shows a steady temp of 80C with peaks of 82C being very rare. This is with 353whp.
#48
Drifting
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If you have a steam vent kit properly installed you don't need to vent per the normal procedure. It is self venting. Especially fast it you raise the back of the car a little or drive down a hill.
Again, unless you simply like the looks of the FMIC, why bother? A homemade stage 2/3 will perform just fine in the stock location. Almost nobody makes more HP than Shawn on a street car and it works just fine.
Again, unless you simply like the looks of the FMIC, why bother? A homemade stage 2/3 will perform just fine in the stock location. Almost nobody makes more HP than Shawn on a street car and it works just fine.
#50
Rainman
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Bumping this up with concerns of running hot behind this ebay intercooler...
Pauly, what kind of water temperatures were you seeing?
Are you still running this IC or something else now?
Pauly, what kind of water temperatures were you seeing?
Are you still running this IC or something else now?
#51
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Normal driving i see 95°c on my PLX which is connected to the top hose of the rad.
The stock temp gauge just sits at the first line where it's always sat.
On mountain runs it starts to climb. which is usually second gear.
I will be going PWR intercooler. i have to get a few things from them to i'll be getting them at once.
#52
Rainman
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How high does it get in extended boost periods?
95C is just fine for cruising, could be lower but not a big deal.
Do you have the IC right up against the AC condenser or is there a gap?
Did you ever add more ducting?
95C is just fine for cruising, could be lower but not a big deal.
Do you have the IC right up against the AC condenser or is there a gap?
Did you ever add more ducting?
#53
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It's been winter here, so very wet. So i haven't bothered with anything as i can't do any real world tests. the hills are about 2 hours away from me so i can't just go when i feel like it either. (means i need to wake up at 4:30 am to be sure there's no sunday drivers on the road)
The PLX sensors are new and put them in after my last hill run. i just went by the factory gauge and it climbed to the 3rd so 3/4 hot. not sure the temp. but it cools down to under half when cruising. i can put it in 3rd at lower rpm and it'll cool down.
#54
Rainman
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(in degrees C)
Remember that the gauge sender is in the block between cyl 1/2 so it sees some of the coolest water in the engine (straight out of the water pump basically).
So going off another sender in the upper rad hose is a very good idea. So if your dash gauge says first line = 80C and the PLX says 95C at upper rad hose you're still OK for temperature.
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I thought there was more lines on the gauge for a second.
So it sits at 80 then. on hill runs it will hover around 100, then when it gets neat 115 i back it off until it's under 100.
normal driving it's always at 80. if i let it idle for a while, the PLX will say 105 and then that gauge will climb to 85. there's probably an airpocket somewhere because sometimes it likes to over flow (i have a bottle) when i rev it a bit, it will cool down real quick.
So it sits at 80 then. on hill runs it will hover around 100, then when it gets neat 115 i back it off until it's under 100.
normal driving it's always at 80. if i let it idle for a while, the PLX will say 105 and then that gauge will climb to 85. there's probably an airpocket somewhere because sometimes it likes to over flow (i have a bottle) when i rev it a bit, it will cool down real quick.
#56
Rainman
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yikes, that's a huge difference in inlet vs outlet temp.
i've been wondering about that as my car gets hot recently with the summer we've been having here, but i was using a non-stock fan and have been in a lot of traffic lately.
i switched back to stock (for the first time since 2011 i think!) fan for now.
i am already researching alternative IC's in case the ebay one causes hot running...but i don't even know if it will yet
i've been wondering about that as my car gets hot recently with the summer we've been having here, but i was using a non-stock fan and have been in a lot of traffic lately.
i switched back to stock (for the first time since 2011 i think!) fan for now.
i am already researching alternative IC's in case the ebay one causes hot running...but i don't even know if it will yet