George D

Sorry, just read most of your post. Know what you now have, and I'm still steadfast towards the stock end tank upgrade.

G

URG8RB8

Just see Shawn's thread on his homemade LR stage 2+ IC. He is putting down over 500 why look any further than that? Especially if George sends you a free core.

Paulyy

Hey George, I've still got my stock IC. Cheers for that!

When i have the chance to i'll put it back in and see what happens.

I'm starting to lean away from it being the IC. I have a feeling it could be maybe a water pump/ thermostat issue. Because i've never had an issue of temps climbing after a heavy drive. I've noticed higher temps post rebuild.

The FMIC was there pre build and was there pre GTX upgrade.

I want to flush my cooling system out, clean the radiator for a piece of mind and new coolant.

I might log temp and post it up next time i go for a 'drive'
But i want to go about this the correct way, narrowing down the problem than just modifying or swapping things.


Patrick if you're reading this, do you have the noise panel? or it's gone?

George D

But i want to go about this the correct way, narrowing down the problem than just modifying or swapping things.

As should be done.

G

Paulyy

Maybe this weekend i'll get it up on a hoist have a look while the weather is warm enough to show temp differences.
Been busy this week & Hopefully tomorrow i get a chance to give Chris a call.

t3rra

Would like to hear more on the stock ic modified. Currently have the 1st end tank enlarged, but was thinking off getting boardfoot level 2 ic which is a replacement for stock item in its location.

George D

Hey Paul,

Thought this was a new issue. If you've had static temps using same inter-cooler now different, it's not the inter-cooler. Have your radiator flushed, and get a new thermostat. You'll likely be back where you started.

Consider drilling some/many holes in your front plate, then painting window screen attached same color on the entire back. From 3 meters, no one will know, and you'll have better airflow. Drill from front to back. Get you know this clearly, just sayin.

G

George D

Pound out the wrap flat on the inside, then attach the mesh-window screen painted. No one will notice, and it's a "cool" story from a US "mate".

G

Paulyy

Hey George,

I don't drive the car hard enough to see this problem often. It's been happening for a while post build.
It only happens when i go on the mountains and give it a good hammering. then i'd slow down and temps will drop.

Pre rebuild. When i had stock turbo. had tial 38mm gate still and same FMIC with a LinkAFM replacement. I've done long amount of runs tuning top end fuel with that and temps didn't move.

Are you saying flush rad and change thermostat? or no point?
I have a new thermostat. and coolant. I'll do it for a piece of mind.

What it feels like is the water isn't circulating around the engine properly, the engine gets the water to hot and the rad cannot cool it quick enough.

The water pump is new. I put in the thermostat it came with and it was a very tight fit.

Even sometimes on idle randomly it'll get hot. i'll give it a rev for a few seconds and temps just drop.


You mean a mod similar to your front bar? i would, but have to have the front number plate on, and i'm not allowed to modify the front plate at all.
Although i did speak to Luis about some 924 nose vents.

p.s you've got an Email

glen2002

Paul, ignore this if stupid and just stating the obvious, but wondering if you are confident in the last bleeding of the radiator you did? They way you mention heating at idle seems odd, maybe a man size air bubble in there? It at least costs nothing in parts to bleed the system again and easier than some of the other options.

Paulyy

Only bleeding i done was via the bleeding bolt on the head. And from what i know, it has no air pockets. I could be wrong but after it gets hot, steam rises.. i've opened the bleed bolt and only pressurised water comes out.

But sometimes i look at the reservoir and there's less water in there. I slowly open the cap to release pressure and water comes back up. Does that indicate theres air pockets?

Maybe i didn't bleed it enough?

333pg333

That's a normal situation re it heating up and responding to a few revs.

I'm not quite sure what I've still got as far as nose panels go. Might be able to rustle something up for you. You know my preference for nose panels to be accompanied by some hood vent. (Not that I ran like that initially)

glen2002

Paul, I don't know enough about bleeding to comment but do know it is tricky on the 951. If you do a search here there are threads with ideas like having the car up at the front, etc. I know LR even make a kit to help out - http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/COOLSTEAM.html My car is getting a new radiator at the moment at Buchanans so I will get the benefit of having Sean bleed mine. For a quick search and an hour of your time it would be worth a shot before spending money or time on other things, even just to be sure you have eliminated the basics.


PS on the LR link they talk about a cave near cylinder 4, this is where they think the air pockets often are.

Adonay

This may very well be a bleeding issue as stated, i clearly remember that i had issues bleeding my old NA ended up driving The front up on ramps and bleeding again. That helped and never had issues again

Paulyy

But hey, It's extra vents! Let me know. I did speak to luis about the vents too.

Oh yep. I got this. well i made my own but same.


Hmm. I'll try bleeding it like that. makes sense too. Thanks!