I had a bunch of issues with my car including AFM wiper being worn, which was sorted and it now seems that the TPS harness is an issue too. I am also replacing everything else as well while I'm in there. I have already done speed and ref sensor harness to DME(LR harness). I have LR injector harness too and am about to get their misc sensor harness but their is no option for the TPS. I replaced the connector thinking that was problem but it wasn't, so I figure only option is to make my own. My mechanic said they had a similar problem with the harness on the 993's and that replacement was only option as the aging harness would create lots of random problems, and as reliability is my main priority and current haness has been subjected to high heat and is so old, that I figure I have to bite the bullet.

I have the connector for TPS end but need to source the pins that are used in DME/KLR. If anyone knows their technical name or can help me source the pins that would be great.. I am pretty sure they are reasonably common so shouldn't be had to find but I havent had a chance to look yet.

I have found a black high temp resistant loom cover rated at up to 500C so that should provide plenty of protection to the cables.

I can see on KLR pin outs 3 connections for the *throttle valve sensor*

21:- Angle sensor - supply

22:- Angle sensor - tap

23:- Angle sensor - ground for shield for angle sensor wire

and on DME

2:- throttle switch idle contact.

On the connector at TPS there are 6 positions for pins but only 5 are used
1, 2, 3, 4, and 6.

Now on clarks it seems that 22 and 23 connect to pins 2 and 3 at TPS but am not sure which way around but I should be able to test for that but if anyone knows I would be grateful.

On clarks it says 4 and 6 are for idle contact switch.

So I think the connections would be(probably wrong)
Edited below to correct pin outs for future reference

TPS DME/KLR
1:- 21 KLR
2:- 23 KLR
3:- 22 KLR
4:- Ground
5:- Not Used
6:- 2 DME

If anyone knows above info that would be great

Now the harness is run above the turbo which I was surpised to find out due to heat, so think it may to keep it away from ign leads and interference. It seems running under intake would be slightly cooler. Does anyone know if it has to be run that way ?

Anyway if anyone can shed some light and save me a lot of faffing about with a DMM I sure would appreciate it or if anyone knows if any vendor sells a harness that would be even better

peace
Cyberpunky

 

You should just pull the whole DME harness and rebuild the whole thing. It's quite easy to remove.

 

Check the TPS signal at the DME. Clarks has the procedure. It's best to have a helper to rotate the throttle body while you check the resistance.

I just rebuilt my entire engine wire harness and the wires were broken/crumbling inside the boots at the connectors. None of the wires were broken elsewhere.

 

Also, if you really want to replace the entire run of wires for the TPS, I bet Dave at LR would sell you the pins for the DME connector if you ask nicely.

 

I don't have the link immediately handy but the pins for the OE connectors are called Junior Timer (not Junior Power Timer).

TE Connectivity has a PDF catalog where you can get the part numbers, and from there, order them from Mouser.

When I get home tonight I can verify the part number for you, they're on my desk there.

 

Note that the expensive part will not be the pins, it will be the crimp tool to properly attach the pins to the wires...

 

Ok was able to look at my Mouser order history.

For 0.5-1.5 wires I use PN 925590-2
For 1.5-2.5 wires I use PN 925595-2

 

I don't have diagrams for '86 Turbo but for '88 it will be:

TPS DME/KLR
1 : KLR 21
2 : KLR 23
3 : KLR 22
4 : ground
5 : not used
6 : DME 2

Source: wiring diagram page 8. All wires size 1 mm2. I would expect it to be the same for older model but someone can chime in here

 

Found '86 diagram - it is identical to '88.

 

That's exactly what I needed for wiring information. Thank you

I replaced the connector and still have same issue so hence why I plan to replace harness

I really like the LR connector as the push style retaining clip part means the plug isn't stressed when being removed unlike factory one if ppl dont unclip it properly

 

Jim, I didn't go with Mouser, as postage was outragous to my little island in the pacific. I did find them on ebay much cheaper shipped using the manufacturers part number I got from mouser site. Thanks for the info mate

 

Update I think I have found another source for the female connector for TPS. $US23 Vs $US73 for LR but you will need the crimper, where LR has fly leads already crimped

I havent got these yet so I will confirm it is the correct connector once I get it
Edit:this is correct connector.

Click here

 

Hi Bruce,
If you don't mind me asking what is the issue you are having?
Regards
Sean

 

Sean, the car started hesitating and back firing. At first it was when the car got to a certain temp(always about the same place on way and way home from work. I Refurbished the AFM and gave inside a good sand which had the car running fine for a while but a few days later it started dying on me again. I barely made it a km from home and had to be flat beeded back. When I jiggled the TPS connector car died so I replaced the connector. I think problem is still AFM but I figured I would replace TPS harness anyway as I am not confident on the connections to new TPS connector, as there wasn't much slack in wiring and so connection isnt as solid as I would like.

I woud replace the AFM but as I plan on getting rid of it and going an MAF using Rogue M tune, it would be a waste of money. Sadly when this started was just when Josh stopped being able to supply M tune so I have been unable to get my hands on one.

 

Hi Bruce,
These problems are sometimes the hardest to track down, Have you replaced your speed and reference connectors as well as the fuel rail connectors. considering your handy with DIY i would remove the entire harness and make a new one like Paul has suggested. I feel like if you do it bit by bit it may take a long time to pinpoint the problem and cost just as much. We have done quite a few harness refurbs its not too difficult. This way it will eliminate the harness.
Regards
Sean