mahoney944

I recommend the LR super 65 with p-trim hot housing, a 3 in down pipe must. I run 22 psi with a LR 4 inch, no cat, wastegate dumbed exhaust. Boost comes on quick 2500 to 3000 rpm and holds.

rlm328

Go to the Garrett site, even if you do not buy one of their turbos it has a lot information on it so that you can speak and understand turboese a little. You can also down load a Garrett App to help you look at various maps. The maps will let you know whether you efficiencies are. You need to do some basic calculations to see where you want to fall on the compressor map and like wise the turbine map. PM me your email and I will send you my spreadsheet to help you decipher the maps. As you can see below the middle of the island for the GT30 is a pressure ratio of 2.25 and corrected air flow is 35, for the GT35 it is still 2.25 and an air flow of 40. The air flow is an indication of the amount of HP you will make.

Dougs951S

I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the LR turbos compressor wheels break down like this:

S48 = 50 trim = 54mm
s53 = 60 trim = 59mm
s61 = 60-1 hifi = 60mm
s65 = T61 = 61mm
s75 = GT4094 = 67mm

Some other turbos, just for size comparison sake

K27 = 53mm
HX35 7 blade = 54mm (flows nearly 20% more than a GT3076/GT3576)
HX40 7 blade = 60mm (flows slightly more than a GT4088)
GT3071 = 53mm
GT3076 = 57mm
GT3582 = 61mm
GT4088 = 65mm

These are of course all inducer sizes.

dizzyj

Bumping this thread back. I'm needing to make a descision soon as my build is coming along nicely.

What I have learned:
k26 hotside (LR s65 etc) can only come in a #8 hotside. Most people I have talked to are concerned that its not big enough due to back pressure and no one has a #10 hotside (not made anymore)

SFR recommends a precision 6266 or 6466. Get their 3" downpipe and modify my crosspipe to accept a t4 flange, or buy their whole stage2 header kit.

others have said to stay away from precision. I like the idea of a dbb dry turbo tho.

looking into holset, but I dont see how a hx40 fits in the factory spot, even with down pipe and mods to the crosspipe.

Garret works, but again, its a large effort to mod, and I have to run water.

any thoughts on these different options?

Paulyy

IMHO. i would modify it so it works with a Garrett. gt3582r if you're not running big boost. .82 housing.

The turbine housing and blades will make or break the turbo. the KKK ones just create a lot of back pressure that chokes the engine.

Id get a S65 or S72. Stage 5 or p trim #10 housing. But risk some top end.
George D had a 6262 on a 3.1. A little laggy. might work better on yours as you have little more displacement.
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=176

dizzyj

unfortunately, no one had a #10 housing. Anyone have a lead? I would think a s65 ptrim with #10 would work great. maybe not the best, but would be a nice drop in install.

rlm328

I am running my garret without water cooling just oil. Again where do you want to make power. My power starts coming on in the mid 2000s and will eat anything alive coming out of the corners, but the down side is that it runs out of legs on the high end. Ask West about it, he likes the car every where but the long straights.

You going to be there the end of the month? we can go play tag.

dizzyj

I'd like to start spooling by 3k and be at full boost by 3500.

unfortunately, I wont be there this time. 1) my car is in pieces and 2) ill be off snowboarding. hopefully we can play chase at the club race in march

MarkRobinson

My 60-1 Hifi BB (oil only) on my 911 turbo lasted me some 150k miles before I pulled the motor out for another (terminal oil leaks). It was an Innovative turbo (ITS). I run Precisions on my cars/928-turbo's now: pretty reliable (no issues have come up). The BB unit for my 928 racer is some 10 years old, still purring along: It's a T67 BB with water-cooled cartridge.

dizzyj

Been doing a lot of research and putting together my own spreadsheet. one thing im confused on with these turbos (or maps) is that it seems like the area in the map we would effectivly use is pretty small. for example, 20 psi of boost is a 2.3 pressure ratio right (20+14.7)/14.7 thats on the HIGH end of boost. if I kept it to 15, that would be a 2.0 PR. isnt everythign above that line wasted?

rlm328

Yes and no. For a manual boost control you can vary the level to take advantage of the atmospheric conditions, helps a little. Where you take real advantage is with an electronic boost where you can vary your boost depending on where you are on your ecu maps.

You going to be at the final dance next month?

dizzyj

how do you have your boost set? right now i've only used an mbc.

I will be at the race, but im racing sp1 since my car is still apart.

rlm328

Right now I have manual. When I replace the M4 with an M84 I will switch to electronic.

pole position

Extrude honing the #8 housing might get you close to the #10 size if you insist on a bolt on affair.

Thom

What kind of port work will you have done on the 2.7 head, if any, and do you plan to run the stock intake?

The only GT30-sized turbo I would use on a 3L would be a GTX3071R 1.06 with the stock intake, but I would move right away to a GT35-sized turbo with a "better" intake (LR or else), GT3582R, HTA3582R, GTX3576R or GTX3582R.