Dougs951S

Posting this to document my 16v build, I was initially going to go big valves, built 8v, that head will go on a different project now. First, a little history on the car. It is a 1987 S with 190k miles on the frame. I have owned it for 4 years now. Initially, I wanted to build a 951 clone. I got a hold of a cheap 951 wreck and went about swapping everything over. The car today has very little in common with your typical 951. The build in a nutshell will be as follows:

Engine, fuel, exhaust,lighting:

Eagle forged 5.900 4G63 rods
Offset ground crank, 86mm stroke
2.5 liter block, melling steel liners, half filled with grout
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Cometic MLS 103mm head gasket
Ported and polished 16v head, 37mm intake valves, 33mm exhaust
Probe forged 4.060" pistons, 8.3:1 CR non interference
Spec 6 puck clutch
billet aluminum flywheel and pressure plate
A/C delete
power steering delete
Cruise control delete
headlight washer delete
headlight motor/linkage delete, lights pinned up with brackets, 100w H4 bulbs, 100w US foglights, clear turn signals
HX35 with 7 blade billet compressor/#12 hotside, oil only cooled
Huge FMIC, 3" piping
80# high Z primary injectors
30# high Z secondary throttle body injectors
044 fuel pump
S2 fuel rail
Gates barricade fuel lines
Kawasaki ZX12R tapered ITB's with 46mm butterflies
Custom big plenum ITB intake manifold with short S2 runners
Modified S2 headers
modified stock Crossover
3" vband turbo back
40mm wastegate dumped to atmosphere
HKS SSQ Blow off valve vented to atmosphere

Engine Management:

Megasquirt 2 running newest extra code
LS2 coil on plug, wasted spark
2 stage batch fire fuel injection with primaries and stand off throttle body injectors
integrated knock control via knocksense MS and factory sensor
2 step launch control
GM intake temp sensor located just before TB, GM 3 bar MAP
Kawasaki ZX12R TPS
VR sensor from ford escort
Custom sensor bracket bolted to PS pump stud and A/C mounting boss
crank mounted 36-1 trigger wheel on back of alternator pulley
Self tuned speed density for 22 psi on E85


Interior/shifter stuff:

Mostly gutted
5 point belts
Sparco seats on factory sliders
Stock shifter with needle bearing mod, cut 2" shorter than stock
Heim joint shift linkage on transmission
Gauges, yo!

Suspension, brakes and tires,ect:

Coil overs on modified early strut cores, 350# springs, GC hardware
28mm T bars
Bilstien rear shocks, 400# springs
Early steel control arms
86' 951 hubs, spindles, brakes, and trailing arms
M030 sway bars
996 twists 7.5x18F 10x18R, Michelin PSS
VW Fox strut bearings
Custom extra heavy duty strut brace
Factory LSD
Solid trans mount


95% of this stuff is already on the car, here is the list of things I still need to get my hands on:


upper and lower tensioner pads
16v timing belt
S2 Intake
bunch of gaskets
Pistons and rings
Block and crank
steel sleeves and bearings


In addition, I will be using the factory S hall sender to go to full sequential fuel and spark. The goal is a reliable, streetable 450 rwhp. That is about it folks, stay tuned as things start to get under way.

Edit: Updated

333pg333

Sounds great! Wonder how much it will weigh too? Keep posting as you progress Doug.

Dougs951S

Thanks patrick! Its nothing compared to your beast, it will be a very fast street car/DE beast/autoX car. Im shooting for under 2800 lbs, if I dont get there I'll bust out the fiberglass and lexan. If I reach my goal of 425 rwhp it should have a terrific power/weight ratio with a nice fat powerband thanks to the holset stuffed into the modified .63 hotside. I have plans to offset grind in the future, but for now I just want to get this "budget" build running. Its kind of funny, when I bought the car I got rid of the S motor, and now 4 years later it has come full circle, 16v like the day it rolled out of the factory. I think its fitting. This car has really taken on a life of its own, evolving slowly into something way more than I ever intended it to be.

V2Rocket

for all the S-specific parts ping user mhariush, he's got like 3 944S that he's parting out.

333pg333

Should yield some great results I reckon Doug. I'm interested how you'll go with this head. Thinking about doing something similar at a later stage.

Paulyy

Wouldn't the 16v be ideal if you're trying to reach higher rpm? It's been done many times, but a well sorted 8v head with an appropriate cam (not a web cam off the shelf grind) you can achieve very good results.

You may be reaching your limits with the internals though. be careful!

Good luck, interested in your results.

Cyril

Nice project Doug!
Pics?

About weight, you can easily go under 2700lbs with a stock body, a full cage, wet, 1/4 fuel, no driver. A full cage is about 130/150lbs.
I started with a 89 turbo and it not the lightest one...
With Lexan, fiberglass and not streetable anymore: 2400lbs (wet, 1/4 fuel, no driver).

333pg333

You're way lighter than us Cyril! We're about 2550lbs wet and that's without much metal left on the car. Roof, tailgate and floorpan. Everything else is f/g or c/f. Do you have a glass or lexan windscreen?

Cyril

Patrick, my plan is to do a corner balancing this week so I will be able to give you the exact number.
All lexan minus the windshield.
Do not forget that I do not have your level of equipment Patrick.
No aero tools (Wing, uprights, splitter), no dry sump system, no air jacks, no huge radiator and intercooler, no big brakes, no huge wheels,...
For now... ;-)

67King

Really? I'm around 2425 now (dry), no carbon fiber. Fiberglass front end (hood is only a skin) and dash. Metal doors, quarters, roof, etc. There is almost no wiring on the car (fusebox is gone, only have a few fuses), and the only undercoating/seam sealer is under the cabin - none on the front of the car, none inside. Goal is to get where I could run at 2500 lbs as an S, should I decide to do that. Although that may dictate 17" wheels and small brakes.

Biggest impediment, IMHO, to losing weight on these cars is mindset. Everyone to whom I talk in person says "that's only a couple of pounds" for everything I mention. OUnces add up to pounds, but most people want stones at a time. If you get in there and take out weight anywhere you see it, you'll end up with a very light car. If you get in there and think "this isn't much, not worth the effort" you'll be miffed at why you can't get lighter.

FWIW, wiht 1/4 tank of fuel, my car is:
FL - 695# FR - 700#
RL - 739# RR - 742#

48.5% on the front, and only 8 pounds different left to right. Actually, that is from when the car was about 50 pounds heavier, and running about 230 pounds of ballast. There is NFW I would have gotten there if I weren't super Type-A about the weight in this car.

333pg333

Perhaps we should start a car weight thread rather than drag Doug's off track too much. :-)

Dougs951S

Just a little update, today I received a nice set of S2 headers and an S2 fuel rail/FPR. I have the 16v belt rollers in the mail, and the intake is currently under construction. I also bought a set of Eagle 4G63 forged rods I decided if I'm going through all this trouble, I should do it right. No sense in building a monster and then being worried about the integrity of my factory rods. With new 16v turbo pistons for an alusil bore being ~1000, I figured I might as well add some displacement. In addition, the 4.060" pistons I've chosen for this build should be non interference @ ~8.4:1 CR. I guess the name of this thread should be changed to "Another 16v 2.85 liter car"!

refresh951

Updates without pictures do not count

V2Rocket

a 2.85 stroker 16v would make a killer motor NA...turbo should be nuts.
looking forward to progress.

Paulyy

to much talking, not enough building. Chop Chop