The CVs on my 951 have begun to click when the car's in reverse and I think I can also hear them on and off while driving so I think it's time to pull the axles and have a look.

I did this on my old 83 and ended up replacing all 4 joints, but that was a high mile car while this 951 has around 86K miles and is on its original set.

The two clutch jobs probably compromised the grease in the CVs to some extent so I'm not driving the car until I check them out, but I'm concerned about having to replace them, since they're so expensive new.

Already bought the long and short 8mm triple square bit sockets from Hazet and just am procrastinating before jumping in.

If anyone has done this recently on their 951 and has any pointers or advice, I'd appreciate it.

TIA

 

some people have success flipping them end for end and repacking with grease, to give a new surface to ride on.

 

Hi Luis, The below link shows how to rebuild the CV Joints. It comes in 2 Parts and shows on a 914, but also applies to a 951.


Cheers,
Larry

 

Another option would be to pick up a new pair of axels for an easy swap from old to new. New Porsche axels are pricey but there's a thread on here regarding an alternative to OEM axels that are being used quite a bit both on and off track. I tried doing a search for it but couldn't find it, maybe someone else can post a link. I'm in the process of swapping mine right now and plan to rebuild the originals as a spare set. I took one axel off yesterday. Clean out the cheese head bolts well, I used brake cleaner and Q-tips, a few each until they were CLEAN. Also used PB Blaster and woke up the bolts before loosing them. No problem with the first side.

Edit:
Found it...https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ternative.html

Not everyone has had a good experience they seem to be inconsistent, and possibly no longer available. Good luck.

 

Thanks for this info. Like I said, I've already done this before but the videos had some good tips.

About the alternative axles, there's no way I'm putting EMPI parts on my car.

I'll consider rotating the axles, though. That might be a good plan if I see any wear on the joints and inner races.

 

On a turbo car, I wouldn't be surprised if most of the joints show wear at 86k miles.

 

Time for the brainteaser: In order to shift the load to the other side of the races (grooves) in the CV joints, should the assembled half-shafts be 1) rotated inside <-> outside? 2) Rotated left <-> right? Or 3) Both?

And a maintenance tip:
The ***** in the CV joints are stressed at the same location, as witnessed by very localized pitting (when it occurs), which also with time pushes the grease away. So in order to re-distribute the grease in the CV joints, just grab the installed (floating) shafts and exercise them axially maybe every 10k miles.

Laust

 

You need to swap them side-to-side.

 

Yeah, i'm reconsidering this option as well. I'm going to disassemble my existing CV's and if they're in good shape i'll rebuild them and either sell the axels I bought or keep them around as a spare set.

 

How critical is it to reassemble a CV joint cage in the same orientation it came off the car. The procedure on Clarks Garage suggests using a die pen or nail polish to mark the individual pieces that make up the joint and reassemble them back to original. Are most of you going through the added effort of surface matching each joint when rebuilding them?

 

The cage is both symmetrical and non-load bearing. It can go in any orientation.

 

Exactly

Since we went through this years ago, I should have addressed my post to Rennlisters with less than 1000 posts. Oh well, maybe in another 5 years.

Btw, your videos are great and do a lot to keep our cars running well.

Laust

 

Thanks Van!