I've read the many and sometimes complicated ways people install 944 pan gaskets to avoid leaks and gaskets pushing out from the pan rail. I'm aware there's even an aftermarket bracket arrangement to hold the gasket in place! I'm also aware of how the factory does it with sealant in each corner. Nonetheless, in the spirit of this knowledge sharing forum, I'll offer my method which I've used for many years and on many engines.

The factory manual specifies three tightening cycles in a circular pattern from center to corners. Use this sequence and pattern. The (rubber) gasket wants to squirm around as it's tightened and if it's not allowed to do so, it won't fill corner voids and won't be happy along the long side rails (it'll push out). How do you let it squirm? OIL! Lightly coat the entire gasket with oil (just use your hands) before you install it. There's NO NEED for sealant in the corners with this method - but do clean out the old sealant. I 'sharpie' the tightening sequence right on the pan so I don't lose my place. Once the three tightening steps are completed, just run over each bolt again in any sequence to confirm none were missed and all are tight. No need to go back later, either.

That's it - no muss, no fuss, no leaks. OK, before people start telling me their method is better, show me it's quicker, show me no leaks, and show me you've put more pans on 944's than I have. I'm sharing what I've learned, not suggesting anyone else is wrong!

Other comments: I hate leaks, but I also run vacuum in the crankcase (via dry sump) of some of my race engines. A good pan seal is necessary to allow and maintain the vacuum so I always want a good pan gasket seal. Can a pan gasket be reused? YES, if the rubber isn't too hard and it's in good shape. They're expensive to replace and often not necessary.

 

Thanks for the good tech

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Really? Interesting. I'm hoping others try it before I have to do my next oil pan gasket. I'm not sure I'd have the nerve to try it before confirming your results are not the result of some mystical force unique to your shop. I actually thought those gasket retainer brackets were a shade-tree cure for the gasket sliding around too much -- usually as a result some blue-ribbon sealant slurry concoction slathered all over everything. If all oiled up, doesn't the gasket want to squeeze out the sides when tightened?

 

He has built more than just a few motors. This is the kind of info I would love to see shared more often. I applaud this "spirit of sharing". Thanks Michael!

 

Absolutely -- didn't mean to come across otherwise or sound like I was second guessing. Just very curious about the technique!

 

Thanks for this. I followed the factory tightening procedure and still ended up with it extruding out the sides. I had to use the KLA oil pan bracket in the end. $200 of brackets just to keep the oil pan gasket in place. I'll try oiling it next time.

 

Michael, do you use the sealant for the S2/968 cam cover gasket in the corners or do something different here as well. I always seem to get a little bit of weeping here no matter what.

 

Cam cover gasket? Same as the pan gasket. No sealant; just oil it up. Be sure to clean out any old sealant in the gasket groove. Reuse them? Yep.

 

I just add about 100 self tapping screws in between the stock pan bolts and then spray the whole engine with pick up truck bed liner.



In my experience people that have pan gasket problem are usually only chasing a symptom not the actual problem (unless its failure of the original 25 year old gasket)

 

I work on Porsches for a living and I do the same thing for all rubber gaskets, except I use silicone lubricant instead of engine oil. Works great, especially on 964/993 valve cover gaskets, it allows the profile gaskets to completely fill the grooves of the valve covers when they are torqued down.

I still use a dab of silicone sealant on 944 oil pan gaskets and BMW valve cover gaskets, for reassurance if nothing else!

 

Great info, thanks for sharing. How about a sneak preview of next week's episode?

Cheers,
Mike

 

Did my first oil pan gasket, IICR i did mine dry. But i made sure everything was clean. 100% clean & smooth. so far so good

Thanks for the tips though!

 

Lol. OK, how about suggesting a topic - anyone? Make it engine related, make it something that's commonly a headache or problem. If I can contribute anything I will. If I can't, perhaps someone can.

MM

PS: Sealants…. if I'm heard cussing in the shop, it's probably because I have to clean sealant off a component that doesn't need it. Gaskets, seals, and o-rings are (typically) designed to be installed (and function) without any additional sealant. It all too often doesn't help, it looks awful, and it's a bitch for the next guy to clean up as it usually has to be done by hand.

And while I'm moaning…. Those abrasive 'gasket removers' that you spin in a drill or air tool to clean a surface. STOP! You're often ruining a finely machined surface since small amounts of metal is removed along with the old gasket. I often see it on 2V cylinder head surfaces - both the cylinder seal side and the cam housing side. The swirl marks are a give-away that the surface is no longer flat!

 

Michael,

I have a few requests for the Knowledge Sharing series, but they are specific to the 968/S/S2 engines. I know these topics have been discussed before, but it’s good to get the perspective from someone who works on these engines daily.

How about a new thread be created in the appropriate forum for each topic and the naming convention of the thread should be consistent (e.g. Knowledge Sharing – 16 valve, camshaft timing)?

- 968 camshaft timing
- Lightweight flywheel for 16v engine on a road car – any detriment to reliability?

Looking forward to the education!

Thanks