bebbetufs

Is this upgrade a must with a 3" turbo inlet and M tune, or is it one that should be done when the stock alternator fails? Mine has done 62k miles so It should have plenty of life left in it still.

URG8RB8

It is close to a must, but not quite! You can fan agile a 3" in without this alternator but. It is a bear! For the money, when swapping to the M-tune I would put this high on my list! Makes things much easier.

shortyboy

Does anyone have the pictures linked in the first post? Thanks

Dare

There are a number of pictures in this thread: Smaller alternator issue completed(pics).

Also, all my pictures are available in my album: Quest Alternator

doabarrelroll

That's interesting. I ended up drilling out the upper hole on mine and mounting it down low in the A/C delete position. Also, the wiring is very straightforward, nothing complicated.

dmcampbell

Still no pix? Thanks, Mike

Mangonesailor

Also, modification to the mount: On which end of the bracket should material be removed so the pulley remains inline with the crank pulley? Also... do you think I could do it IN the car with a course grinding stone and little sweat or are there bushings that should be machined?

URG8RB8

If you send me an E-mail, I can send you a PDF.

Sixline

You can still download your PDF in the other thread.

https://rennlist.com/forums/10877672-post217.html

URG8RB8

Thanks, even better! Sucks getting old, thought I posted it here but couldn't find it.

bumflick

Tried this mod this weekend. Ordered the unit from eBay and it came with the porsche pulley as promised.

Totally mis-read Clark's and drained the radiator instead of just the expansion tank. After getting the old one out, not sure if the expansion tank was necessary, but I'm used to the fact whatever part you need access to, there will be a crapload of other stuff in the way. It is a sort of Murphy's law - the number of parts that need to be disassembled is inversely proportional to the cost/size of the part that actually needs to be replaced...

Anyway, the best way to get a sense of what material needs to be removed, and from where is to sit both units side by side on their pulleys. Place both tabs next to each other, and it will be obvious.

I'm still drilling out the bolt holes - biggest bit I have is 3/8th and that still seems a bit too small. What did others use?

Also, WTF is that smaller ring inside the rear mounting tab, and why can't I drill through it? If I punch it out, the hole will too big so I left it in, but what is this made off?

Paul Waterloo

I have a Quest on the newly acquired 951....but it needs to be modified so the belt isn't offset. Will have to tackle that sometime soon. Do not have the old alternator to figure it out....but shouldn't be too hard.

mahoney944

The back tab has a steel insert. I drilled it and tapped it to fit the stock bolt thread. I recommend using extensions to reach through both tabs and a socket that fits tightly around the tap head when tapping it out. This will make sure the thread is aligned with the other hole so the bolt goes in easy. Or simply drill it to fit the bolt and use a nut on the back side. I personally liked tapping better.

Also to get the alignment correct about an 1/8 inch gets removed from the inside of the front tab of the alternator. some spacer washers will be needed to make a snug fit between the back tab face of the alternator (where the steel insert is) and the mounts back face on the car, I believe I used 3. But that will vary

User 52121

I have a couple stock alternators if you want to borrow one... I'm in the far NW burbs.

bumflick

before