3 Liter 16v Turbo build
01-19-2014, 06:42 PM
#256
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bangkok, Thailand, Milpitas, CA & Weeki Wachee, FL
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Sorry, don't know how to copy and paste link. Here is a picture, analog for $50 and digital for $100, I prefer the analog dial indicator. Easier to see the fluctuation.
01-19-2014, 07:09 PM
#257
Drifting
Thanks. Though TBH unless I find a great deal on a set of Alusil compatible pistons I wont need to measure the block anytime soon.
02-13-2014, 09:54 AM
#259
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That said, factory manual does not require deck plate of any kind for re boring or exposing alusil silica particles and factory standards usually work.
It requires however that the griddle is bolted on and torqued to values provided.
02-13-2014, 02:57 PM
#260
Drifting
I have great respect for opinions from Chris, and he surely has a good reason for deck plate.
That said, factory manual does not require deck plate of any kind for re boring or exposing alusil silica particles and factory standards usually work.
It requires however that the griddle is bolted on and torqued to values provided.
That said, factory manual does not require deck plate of any kind for re boring or exposing alusil silica particles and factory standards usually work.
It requires however that the griddle is bolted on and torqued to values provided.
02-13-2014, 05:20 PM
#261
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02-13-2014, 07:32 PM
#262
Drifting
. I'll be going with a company that uses a deck plate and a bar through the mains though.
02-14-2014, 08:48 AM
#263
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02-14-2014, 11:53 AM
#264
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I do hope so!
But back to the first question:
Next week my engine will be installed permanently (i hope), we will make the downpipe, the exhaust and weld in the bellows on the cross-over pipe!
Than i only have to make my inlet, inlet piping, look for a suitable AWIC and lots more..
But back to the first question:
Next week my engine will be installed permanently (i hope), we will make the downpipe, the exhaust and weld in the bellows on the cross-over pipe!
Than i only have to make my inlet, inlet piping, look for a suitable AWIC and lots more..
02-14-2014, 11:22 PM
#265
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I've prepared many 944 blocks, and certainly have no aversion to using a deck plate. We use them on everything that has threaded holes in the deck surface, like typical V8's and many other engine types. Porsche designers were smart enough to have the head stud anchor well down in the block; purpose being to minimize distortion of the cylinders when the head is installed and torqued.
I've tested 3L blocks with high quality bore gauges and have found that distortion is minimal (one or two ten-thousands of an inch). I never advise cutting corners, but I can say with confidence there is no need with factory torques and factory studs. I also tested distortion with special head studs I had made that are torqued to 85 ft. lbs. Still no distortion.
I never tested distortion with aftermarket head studs (I don't use them), nor with extreme cylinder head torques. Maybe others have.
I've tested 3L blocks with high quality bore gauges and have found that distortion is minimal (one or two ten-thousands of an inch). I never advise cutting corners, but I can say with confidence there is no need with factory torques and factory studs. I also tested distortion with special head studs I had made that are torqued to 85 ft. lbs. Still no distortion.
I never tested distortion with aftermarket head studs (I don't use them), nor with extreme cylinder head torques. Maybe others have.
02-15-2014, 03:57 AM
#266
Burning Brakes
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Finally got a chance to shoot a pic of the cross over with the bellows and the rest of the exhaust.
I am waiting for a new Tial flange to complete the wastegate exhaust pipe. The Wastegate is one of Tial's watercooled versions - more compact and easier to fit (the 968 bell housing does not leave room for the 951 style vertical mounting).
I am waiting for a new Tial flange to complete the wastegate exhaust pipe. The Wastegate is one of Tial's watercooled versions - more compact and easier to fit (the 968 bell housing does not leave room for the 951 style vertical mounting).
02-15-2014, 12:08 PM
#267
Rennlist Member
I've prepared many 944 blocks, and certainly have no aversion to using a deck plate. We use them on everything that has threaded holes in the deck surface, like typical V8's and many other engine types. Porsche designers were smart enough to have the head stud anchor well down in the block; purpose being to minimize distortion of the cylinders when the head is installed and torqued.
I've tested 3L blocks with high quality bore gauges and have found that distortion is minimal (one or two ten-thousands of an inch). I never advise cutting corners, but I can say with confidence there is no need with factory torques and factory studs. I also tested distortion with special head studs I had made that are torqued to 85 ft. lbs. Still no distortion.
I never tested distortion with aftermarket head studs (I don't use them), nor with extreme cylinder head torques. Maybe others have.
I've tested 3L blocks with high quality bore gauges and have found that distortion is minimal (one or two ten-thousands of an inch). I never advise cutting corners, but I can say with confidence there is no need with factory torques and factory studs. I also tested distortion with special head studs I had made that are torqued to 85 ft. lbs. Still no distortion.
I never tested distortion with aftermarket head studs (I don't use them), nor with extreme cylinder head torques. Maybe others have.
03-25-2014, 05:57 PM
#268
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So.. Now another update.. Have been sourcing a lot of parts and have spend 2 weekends on the entire exhaust. It's almost finished now , just the muffler and the tip to have it finished!
So ofcourse, here are some pics. You will notice the non-standard location of the WG..
All exhaust parts have been put into a nice bath to get all the welding residu off.. Unfortunately the bellows suffered from it; the ring which holds the net which is around it wasn't proper stainless so it melted in the bath. Had to get a new one afterwards.
New flywheel, original Turbo Cup flywheel!
New Clutch, Spec Stage 3. Many thanks to Duke!
So.. Next thing will be installing the clutch and flywheel, making a support for the oil pickup tube and than onto the intake.. Which will be challenging looking at this picture i just made..:
So ofcourse, here are some pics. You will notice the non-standard location of the WG..
All exhaust parts have been put into a nice bath to get all the welding residu off.. Unfortunately the bellows suffered from it; the ring which holds the net which is around it wasn't proper stainless so it melted in the bath. Had to get a new one afterwards.
New flywheel, original Turbo Cup flywheel!
New Clutch, Spec Stage 3. Many thanks to Duke!
So.. Next thing will be installing the clutch and flywheel, making a support for the oil pickup tube and than onto the intake.. Which will be challenging looking at this picture i just made..:
03-26-2014, 05:45 PM
#270
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well.. That's a good question! It's from a local company called Datona (so it's Dutch)
This is the one: http://www.datona.nl/auto-schaarhefbrug.html
It goes to about 190cm and the garage is exactly high enough to get the car all the way to the top. It's also completely sunken into the floor. Very stable and stay's up without leaking
This is the one: http://www.datona.nl/auto-schaarhefbrug.html
It goes to about 190cm and the garage is exactly high enough to get the car all the way to the top. It's also completely sunken into the floor. Very stable and stay's up without leaking