95ONE

Hmm. There are certainly cheaper. Katech is the deal I would look at the hardest. They are local to me here in Houston and have a pretty fantastic reputation. HELL, look at the GM performance motor straight from GM.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...s/viewall.html

When it comes down to it, to set up motors properly in the 500whp range, it's all going to end up close to the same money. That is a Lot of power. And for you being over seas, it makes it especially difficult.

BUT.. To get reliable 400whp over here. The V8 is a pretty shining example. I know my 2.5 wasn't going to handle it without blowing a gasket at least 3x's a year. That's just obnoxious. And I can change those out pretty quick. But to end a track weekend early over it is annoying at best.

That said, I am extremely happy you are staying on the 3.0 16v route. I have higher hopes for that motor. Stay the course and make some serious power. I can't wait for your first day out with that beast at full song.

Thom

It would probably be as expensive but will yield lot more HP/TQ to drop a turbo'd BMW V8 in there. It will have a proper soundtrack too.

LS1Porch

TBH i didn't really read through all the responses, so sorry if i say something that's already been covered, but:

For a track car, probably not worth it. The main thing you're buying is reliability. Sure you can make 450rwhp out of a 944/968 engine, but how long is it going to last?
The v8 swap also isn't as easy as just swapping out the engine: you'll have to find a way to put power brakes on, fix what the engine spacers do to the front suspension, etc. Of course, a lot of that is going to be a problem with any swap.

Personally if i had a good engine i'd probably do the 'blown 944' engine upgrade, then get some good fuel management in there and call it a day.

Duke

Katech definitely seem to be a top player, but when I wrote 25K I mean when everything is done.
Factor in 600 hp crate engine, dry sump kit with cast shallow pan and 3-4 stage pump, MAF, EMS, injectors, alternator, headers, starter, conversion kit, flywheel, clutch. Everything adds up!

blade7

Liners and dry sump seem to be the natural progression rather than starting over with a new setup.

Duke

Too much weight. I even think the straight 6's with turbo would be a tad too heavyweight. For a track car weight and balance is more important when you start going over a certain power level.

95ONE

Got it. Certainly. Please re-read that quoted post, I added more to it.

Duke

It's great to see we can have a good discussion about this. I think this thread is really valuable to everyone and hope it will keep the future "Get a V8"-comments out of the threads where they don't belong (e.g. as the "holy grail" answer to a 500 rwhp race car)

Duke

It's really a shame the rod bearing went south. But I guess I shouldn't have thought that it could handle even a day at the track in a real race car. And I need to point out that up to that event the 3.0l 16v turbo engine was very reliable.
I had to switch out a leaking Cometic gasket early on, but I replaced it with a stock 968 gasket and everything worked perfect. The head gasket even looked new upon tear down. That is after ~5000 kilometers including the 514 rwhp dyno run. So with a dry sump I'm pretty confident it should be fairly reliable too.

odurandina

my conversion is topping $35 k. but to be fair, $8 k was in the spare transmission, rebuild and upgrades.

why i'm still not driving ? business has been slow the past year,

and also an 18 week work stoppage this past summer to say goodbye to my mother.

those parts add up fast. i haven't even ordered the driveshaft from Constantine.

Thom

Are you sure?
The S62 V8 is fully made of aluminium (with appropriate Nikasil liners, btw) and should not weigh a lot more than an LS.

Duke

Being a DOHC engine it will weigh a bit more plus the fact that it's very likely it won't fit between the strut towers.
A turbo V8 doesn't appeal to me at all for a track car, but 600+ hp in N/A form is another thing.
The only turbo V8 I would want is a Hartley V8... droooooooooooooooooool

disasterman

A couple notes from someone who has done a serious race car V8 conversion.

1. A properly completed V8 conversion is north of $20k if properly executed with new parts (uness you are an ace mechanic/fabricator with a shop). That's using already well prepped race/track car. I won't use used parts on the race car.

2. GM sells the new longblock LS6 as a "race" motor and it is up to task for either sprint or endurance racing with the following caveats;
A. Dry sump or well executed Accusump is applied.
B. Heat is monitored and controlled.
C. Valve springs should replaced on a stock motor and inspected every 4 race weekends and after every endurance race.
D. To reduce stress on both the drive train and chassis I am running at a restricted 322 HP. Any increase in horsepower will result in a significant increase in cost - larger rear wheels and tires, wider bodywork and accelerated part replacement.
E. New motor with intake, pumps, headers, radiator etc - $9K, Bell housing clutch, motorsport axles etc 5K. That's just to get the ball rolling.

This properly executed example, with very little track time, was very competitive with factory built and supported Mustang Boss 302R race cars.

OEMTim

It can definitely be done cheaper than $10,500. I'm only missing my hydroboost parts and I'm only at $7200....including the 86 951!

xschop

If you're staying in the 400HP range the best bang for the buck clutch package is a Centerforce Pressure Plate and Sachs clutch disc BBD4163. Just bought another 2 sets for my next build and another swap kit.