Part of grinding the crank down is so that the rods actually fit. The Mitsubishi rod journals are a good bit smaller than the stock Porsche ones. Offset would be up to you if you wanted to use those rods.

 

Been doing quite a bit of reading about rod/stroke ratios. Rod/Stroke ratio on the my 2.85L was 1.74 which is considered near ideal (1.75). I think the 2.85L will prove to be an incredible design for both power and reliability.

The 3.15L will have a ratio of 1.58 which is generally considered acceptable but will definitely result in greater stress on the rings and cylinder walls. Things that must be considered in a build. My 3.15L will have a stroke of 95 mm which is the max possible with an offset grind 3L crank (with the Mitsubishi rods). Should be a good case study in the extreme. Here are some interesting articles on the subject:

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...o/viewall.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...building_tips/

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm

 

This will give me a bit more room

 

Shawn are you changing your pistons to larger bore or plan on keeping same bore measurements?

 

Check out ENDYN also. Some reading material there. I mention them before somewhere on here.

Jason

 

Are the pistons for 102.108mm/4.020" bore? Like these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...make/chevrolet

 

Same bore.

Thanks, some nice info!

My pistons are 4.030". My pistons are similar. I initially used a basic engine calculator to choose components such as found here:

http://www.eaglerod.com

 

Looks like my Nissan alt, one of the better mods I did. If you want it to look really nice order the factory harness connectors. They work great. I used this on both of my cars.

 

Pretty cool calculator. I have a crank with a spun #2 that I could get ground to 85.5mm stroke (it is a bit ground down from the bearing), and with a 4.030 bore (I have found a sleeve in 4.031", is that 0.001" to account for piston ring gap?) should be ~2.81L and a 1.753:1 rod ratio...

 

Yep, Nissan alt. Thanks for the tip on the connectors.

Both Sid and I used .0055-.0060 clearance. See below:

https://rennlist.com/forums/9439454-post6.html

 

Shawn, what values did you put into the calculator on the site?

 

The battery cables the VA 'listers were making had an option that I believe included the correct connector for the quest alternator. Very nice cables if you haven't upgraded yours yet it would definitely be worthwhile looking into.

 

I have Iceshark harnesses on both cars, but did not include the Nissan connectors. The connectors were cheap, part number and price is listed in the "How To" write up. Robbie still makes the entire Iceshark harness, including the optional lighting harness for true European fog/driving light setups. I have yet to install all of the lights but I am sure they will be blinding just by the wattages. Thus the alternator mod. The added space was a giant plus!

 

^^btw, did you ever get your car in the Sig dyno'd?

 

Patrick: That is a very long and disappointing story. Car has been in Oklahoma for nearly three years now! Finally back to LR this morning, maybe will have something soon. Don't really want to say much about this nightmare. I will post results once completed.