engine break in procedure?
#1
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I searched the web and couldn't find anything i was looking for, mostly just crap talk about breaking in the engine. I searched the forum and mostly found build threads (even my own) which wasn't very helpful.
So how do we break in our engines?
Specific oils?
Specific procedures?
Lets try keep the BS talk out and create a useful thread with info.
Thanks.
So how do we break in our engines?
Specific oils?
Specific procedures?
Lets try keep the BS talk out and create a useful thread with info.
Thanks.
#4
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you can look up Break In Oils - If you are breaking in new rings you arent supposed to drive on the highway at one rpm for a long time, but varied rpm for short runs, no high rpm.
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oregon951 (01-29-2020)
#5
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Yes, and I've also heard (and done) that if you've got a new cam and lifters, once it starts, keep it at 2000-2500 RPM for 20 minutes, then shut it down and let it cool off.
Then, like Dan said, drive or a few hundred miles while varying the throttle.
Change oil.
Drive more; change oil at 1000 miles.
I don't know if it's true, but I've heard people say not to use synthetic oil for the break-in.
Oh, and before you start the engine for the first time, disconnect the oil and build oil pressure with the starter. This can take many minutes!! Don't do it all at once, or you can burn the starter out. Let it crank for 10 seconds or so. Then let it sit a little while, and then crank again.
Eventually it'll build oil pressure - you'll be grinning - then it's time to fire it up!
Then, like Dan said, drive or a few hundred miles while varying the throttle.
Change oil.
Drive more; change oil at 1000 miles.
I don't know if it's true, but I've heard people say not to use synthetic oil for the break-in.
Oh, and before you start the engine for the first time, disconnect the oil and build oil pressure with the starter. This can take many minutes!! Don't do it all at once, or you can burn the starter out. Let it crank for 10 seconds or so. Then let it sit a little while, and then crank again.
Eventually it'll build oil pressure - you'll be grinning - then it's time to fire it up!
#6
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I just recently purchased a new vehicle and added Redline break in additive. (essentially Zddp additivive and others things in) from what i can tell im not burning oil. Kept it under 4k rmp for the first 1k miles. After the first 1k i went out to the back roads and did a series of of start stops and varying throttle and Rpm at first to 1k - 4500 and proceeded up to interverals of 500 until i came 500 shy of redline.
#7
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Definitely use break in oil. They make some that is synthetic. Most people say to only use convetional oil to break in a motor.
There are 2 opinions on breaking an engine in. One is to do it softly. The other is to break it in hard. Basically drive it like you stole it. I don't know if it applies to engines like ours or not. A lot of 2 stroke guys break their engine in hard.
There are 2 opinions on breaking an engine in. One is to do it softly. The other is to break it in hard. Basically drive it like you stole it. I don't know if it applies to engines like ours or not. A lot of 2 stroke guys break their engine in hard.
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#9
Race Car
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They way I do it for a street engine.
Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish
Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.
I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.
Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.
Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.
I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.
Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.
I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)
I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.
After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.
While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.
Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.
I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.
That's how I do it anyway.
Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish
Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.
I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.
Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.
Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.
I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.
Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.
I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)
I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.
After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.
While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.
Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.
I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.
That's how I do it anyway.
#10
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They way I do it for a street engine.
Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish
Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.
I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.
Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.
Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.
I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.
Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.
I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)
I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.
After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.
While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.
Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.
I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.
That's how I do it anyway.
Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish
Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.
I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.
Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.
Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.
I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.
Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.
I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)
I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.
After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.
While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.
Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.
I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.
That's how I do it anyway.
#15
Burning Brakes
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Drive the **** out of it. Seriously, you aren't going to hurt it. Change the oil 500-1000 miles and don't worry.
Last motor I built I ran for 10 mins to check things out at 2-2600 then out for a test drive, took to redline several times. No issues at all. No need to wait xxxx miles etc.
Last motor I built I ran for 10 mins to check things out at 2-2600 then out for a test drive, took to redline several times. No issues at all. No need to wait xxxx miles etc.