Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

engine break in procedure?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-28-2012, 03:52 AM
  #1  
Paulyy
Professional Hoon
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Paulyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default engine break in procedure?

I searched the web and couldn't find anything i was looking for, mostly just crap talk about breaking in the engine. I searched the forum and mostly found build threads (even my own) which wasn't very helpful.

So how do we break in our engines?

Specific oils?
Specific procedures?


Lets try keep the BS talk out and create a useful thread with info.

Thanks.
Old 10-28-2012, 04:58 AM
  #2  
Black51
Three Wheelin'
 
Black51's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Did you just do a full engine rebuild?
Old 10-28-2012, 05:38 AM
  #3  
Paulyy
Professional Hoon
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Paulyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Black51
Did you just do a full engine rebuild?
Pretty much almost done it. i'll be updating my build thread about it shortly. trying to gather as much info as possible so when i turn the key i know what's happening
Old 10-28-2012, 09:11 AM
  #4  
xsboost90
Rennlist Member
 
xsboost90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Burlington ky
Posts: 15,223
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

you can look up Break In Oils - If you are breaking in new rings you arent supposed to drive on the highway at one rpm for a long time, but varied rpm for short runs, no high rpm.
The following users liked this post:
oregon951 (01-29-2020)
Old 10-28-2012, 09:22 AM
  #5  
Van
Rennlist Member
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 12,008
Received 92 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Yes, and I've also heard (and done) that if you've got a new cam and lifters, once it starts, keep it at 2000-2500 RPM for 20 minutes, then shut it down and let it cool off.

Then, like Dan said, drive or a few hundred miles while varying the throttle.

Change oil.

Drive more; change oil at 1000 miles.

I don't know if it's true, but I've heard people say not to use synthetic oil for the break-in.

Oh, and before you start the engine for the first time, disconnect the oil and build oil pressure with the starter. This can take many minutes!! Don't do it all at once, or you can burn the starter out. Let it crank for 10 seconds or so. Then let it sit a little while, and then crank again.

Eventually it'll build oil pressure - you'll be grinning - then it's time to fire it up!
Old 10-28-2012, 10:02 AM
  #6  
carlege
Drifting
 
carlege's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I just recently purchased a new vehicle and added Redline break in additive. (essentially Zddp additivive and others things in) from what i can tell im not burning oil. Kept it under 4k rmp for the first 1k miles. After the first 1k i went out to the back roads and did a series of of start stops and varying throttle and Rpm at first to 1k - 4500 and proceeded up to interverals of 500 until i came 500 shy of redline.
Old 10-28-2012, 10:42 AM
  #7  
86 951 Driver
Race Car
 
86 951 Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 3,638
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Definitely use break in oil. They make some that is synthetic. Most people say to only use convetional oil to break in a motor.

There are 2 opinions on breaking an engine in. One is to do it softly. The other is to break it in hard. Basically drive it like you stole it. I don't know if it applies to engines like ours or not. A lot of 2 stroke guys break their engine in hard.
Old 10-28-2012, 12:25 PM
  #8  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Used 20-50 Non-Synthetic oil. Stayed at low boost (less than 9psi) for 500 miles. I changed the oil and filter at 100 miles and 500 miles.
Old 10-28-2012, 12:39 PM
  #9  
blown 944
Race Car
 
blown 944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Firestone, Colorado
Posts: 4,826
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

They way I do it for a street engine.


Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish

Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.

I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.

Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.

Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.

I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.

Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.

I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)

I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.

After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.

While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.


Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.


I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.

That's how I do it anyway.
Old 10-28-2012, 12:45 PM
  #10  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by blown 944
They way I do it for a street engine.


Use cheap oil for the first change. 10w40ish

Crank it to get pressure. Sometimes they just won't build and you have to fire it for a few seconds.

I have someone else start it and I listen while it idles for about 10 seconds.

Crank up the rpms to around 1700-2000 and let it run for 5 minutes at a time for 3 times.

Drain oil into very clean pan and change filter. Looking for large particles. There will be quite a bit of metallic in there.

I then refill with cheap oil and drive it for around 20-30 minutes at no boost and very lean AFRs. I try to keep the rpms down and use small hills close to home.

Change oil into clean pan. Again looking for pieces. There will still be quite a bit of metallic.

I then put in heavier racing oil (I use valvoline)

I leave it very lean for the first few hundred miles and no boost or very low.

After a few hundred miles I turn up the boost to 10 psi.

While driving the first 500 miles I try to go through the rpms up to 5500 and let it coast down. I'm trying to create a line contact on the rings.


Then change oil. Turn up to 15 psi, add fuel and let her rip.


I do still find myself letting the car coast down in gear for some time afterwards do to habit.

That's how I do it anyway.
Great info. When you say heavier racing oil, what specifically do you use?
Old 10-28-2012, 01:07 PM
  #11  
blown 944
Race Car
 
blown 944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Firestone, Colorado
Posts: 4,826
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by refresh951
Great info. When you say heavier racing oil, what specifically do you use?
VR1 straight 50 weight.
Old 10-28-2012, 02:02 PM
  #12  
Dare
Rennlist Member
 
Dare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 449
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Another thread on the topic: Ok bring it on!! What is the definitive break in method for a new motor??
Old 10-28-2012, 02:19 PM
  #13  
odurandina
Team Owner
 
odurandina's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
Posts: 28,705
Received 212 Likes on 153 Posts
Default

a good break in oil and a buttwad of prayer.
Old 10-28-2012, 07:24 PM
  #14  
Paulyy
Professional Hoon
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Paulyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,090
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Nice info, and neat find on the other link! thanks heaps!
Old 10-28-2012, 07:32 PM
  #15  
amondc
Burning Brakes
 
amondc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Drive the **** out of it. Seriously, you aren't going to hurt it. Change the oil 500-1000 miles and don't worry.

Last motor I built I ran for 10 mins to check things out at 2-2600 then out for a test drive, took to redline several times. No issues at all. No need to wait xxxx miles etc.


Quick Reply: engine break in procedure?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:24 PM.