CRBennington

With all the different auto backgrounds, ages, and track experience levels in the Turbo and Turbo-S forum, I'm dying to know what everyone's take on the ultimate compromise of a street/track 951 would be.

Budget be damned, what would you do for engine, exhaust, turbo, cooling, clutch, trans, suspension, brakes, wheels, and interior if you were trying to build a track worthy car that you still had to make a legitimate commute in? How many of you would be willing to deal with the noise of a stripped interior or the heat of killing the A/C? Or are those comforts that you wouldn't be willing to sacrifice? How stiff is "too stiff" for suspension that you'd make real city drives on? Are there any existing examples of 951s that are very seriously blurring the lines between street and track that you'd still be willing to drive daily?

Before anyone gets nuts with this, just know that it's no fact finding mission at all. I'm just really curious in how all over the board the answers might be.

Edit Addition- Figured I'd add a little form-ish thing:
Engine:
Internal Engine Mods:
Turbo:
Intake/Exhaust:
Cooling Upgrades:
MAF:
Any Additional Engine Pieces/Info:
Shock/Strut:
Valving:
Spring Rate:
Control Arms:
Sways:
Bushings:
Engine/Trans Mounts:
Front Brakes:
Rear Brakes:
Wheels:
Seats:
Additional Interior Mods:
Weightloss Mods:
Additional Exterior/Aero:
Other thoughts and notes:

95ONE

Being from Houston, the A/C would have to stay. I would go with a pretty heavy spring rate- 4-600lbs. Adjustable suspension. I could handle a slightly harsh ride everyday. It would still be the 3.0 16 valve Turbo on E-85. Switch for gas. - easy enough nowadays.

I would still get the weight down to 2700lbs even with in tact interior and such. GTS lights, Light weight dual purpose Sparco seats, only adjustability would be sliders. Decent city tires and rims with an extra set for the track.

95ONE

Pretty strong spring rates. Full coilovers?

She is finally in the paint booth to paint the chassis/tub. I have been powdercoating / refinishing everything that is going back on...or at least restored. I can't wait to start to install stuff. Lots of plumbing to do though; fuel, coolant, and wiring. All custom fun. That will take the longest. I still have many Engine details to finish up also.

333pg333

I think JET951's car is a very good example of how good a dual purpose car can be. Just on the side of street civility but also does very well on the track. Turbo s2 motor, full interior, A/C, Music, etc....hunts down and beats the fast GT3s on the track.

95ONE

Sounds cool. What is JETS mod list?

333pg333

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-together.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=HkC4n8TqkYA

Richgreenster

Personally I feel that if it was a do everything car like the 911 GT3, then I would build it close to that car. But you have to remember that some of the time the car is driven on the street to be enjoyed as well as be fast on the track. There is compromise in both if you are to enjoy both situations.

Money no object, I think a MAF 3.0L car, big turbo, duel WG, 3" exhaust, etc.... would be my choice with 2 run modes. 1 for high oct (18psi.) and 1 for regular (12psi) Can you tell I like reliability.
I would run a suspension that would be soft enough for the street but firm enough for the track. example: Below 300# for the fronts, M030 sways etc.... Soft but firm..
6 speed Trans with LSD.
951S Brakes. Or as big as I could fit under 16" rims.
18" rims with Cup Sport tires for the track and 16" for the street.
I would run a set of GT3 factory seats. Light and.....Yum Yum..
AC is a must. As well as all of the sound insulation. And a double din radio. Maybe rear seat delete if it looked like the 911 GT3's but then my boys would be sad.
3000lbs is light enough for a duel perpose car.

With that said.. 951S's were set up from the factory close to this back in the day.

Dougs951

I think 300# front would be a bit on the low side.

I run 350 on both of my cars, no complaints here. Actually my stiffer car is the one I prefer to drive. I think the shock package is the most important decision here.


I would run a:
3.xL 16v with a BB turbo
GT3 Brake package
KW clubsports, 500f/650r
30mm front 20mm rear bar
Aftermarket LSD
Titanium exhaust
GT2 seats

fortysixandtwo

Engine: Whatever gets you over 400rwhp
Internal Engine Mods: Upgraded rods. Pistons if displacement is increased. Lighten crank, and cross drill.
Turbo: Whatever matches flow needs for hp goal.
Intake/Exhaust: Stock intake. Stock exhaust up to turbo. 3" after that.
Cooling Upgrades: Bigger oil cooler
MAF: Yes or speed density with stand-alone EMS
Any Additional Engine Pieces/Info: Depends on what you started with, and how you got to 400rwhp
Shock/Strut: Escort Club with t-bar delete will get the job done. Wish list stuff is Moton and the like.
Valving: Depends on springs
Spring Rate: depends where you live, but 150% to 200% stock rates
Control Arms: yes
Sways: hollow M030, Welt', or tarrret. this may depend on spring rates
Bushings: Mix poly bronze and spherical
Engine/Trans Mounts: stock / sock + bracket to reduce swing
Front Brakes: big blacks / reds, with some ducting
Rear Brakes: stock
Wheels: OEM 17" to 18" (for tire size availability)
Seats: racing
Additional Interior Mods: Harness / roll bar
Weightloss Mods: A/C, power steering, sound deadening mat, cruise control wiper reservoir, power window delete
Additional Exterior/Aero: 968 mirrors, handles, wing. Splitter
Other thoughts and notes:

TonyG

A LSx V8 951 with no rubber in the suspension, coil overs, wide R compound rubber (315's on all 4 corners), lexan on the rear 3 glass, and rip out as much crap as you can stand to live without and as many glass or carbon body panels as you can get.

Uhh just like I did on my red LS6 951.


TonyG

CRBennington

You'd go that far in something that had to make commutes, not just be barely street legal? Certainly no right or wrong, just curious.

TonyG

Yes. In fact my plans are to build just that. Of course... after I get done destroying the competition on the race track with my new build.

Seriously... Once you drive one you know. It's that good. And it makes these cars a truly reliable car..... not to mention one that's 10x more fun to drive.

The conversion is worth every penny. If you can find one that's already converted no matter the condition (as long as it's an aluminum block LSx engine), you're way farther ahead of the game money wise.

TonyG

CRBennington

Oh, I totally get the conversion, especially looking at the reliability and the low end. I was referring to the lexan and complete elimination of rubber

74goldtarga

Half cage, removable 6 point harnesses. Keep radio/AC/interior except the rear seat which is deleted. Fully adjustable suspension including uprated sway bars and coilovers first but keep rubber bushings which are replaced with new - some selected solid bushings. Do the engine last.

Chris White

The answer is fairly simple and as many have found out its fairly obvious in 20/20 hind sight-

The answer is that a great street car is mediocre track car and a great track car is an awful street car.

You will spend more money ruining a good street car before this truth finally becomes apparent......