TonyG > New Race Car Build Thread
#1203
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Sucks you are going through this Tony, but isn't that the fun of doing what others haven't
You guys will get it figured out.
Ditto. 2 years of hard racing. I've changed the oil a few times.
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Ditto. 2 years of hard racing. I've changed the oil a few times.
#1204
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But I must say that my 3.1l 16v Turbo engine has been running 2 seaons without even a head gasket change.
#1205
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Yea but if you only had an LS
#1206
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#1207
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Just saw this. Sorry Tony -- but I'm sure you'll come back bigger and better than before. If you're plan is to fix it with money, then how about a nice 638hp dry sump crate motor with warranty... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19260165.html
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http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19260165.html
#1209
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If you already have great heads, the block is super cheap and easy to build.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6MlHxAzLXA
www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6MlHxAzLXA
#1210
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*** Update ***
The engine is apart. Not one... but two nice viewing portals on the sides of the block.
Looks like an oiling problem as one of the middle main crank journals looks has copper on it. But the worst is the rod journal #2 which is black and is the one that the rod broke on.
I've poured over the oil pressure data logs for the last 4 days of driving and cannot find any evidence of poor oil pressure no matter the G force or rpm.
The worst I saw was a couple instances of 28psi at 3900rpms ish.
What I did see was me over reving on a few down shifts and a couple on missed upshifts (a few to 8500rpms +).
I've got a spare 951 cross member and power steering rack on the way with a junk LS7 block mocked up with a a crank and a single rod/piston installed. This, along with the engine mounts, will be assembled and sent out to the oil pan shop to make a custom dry sump pan.
The heads are OK minus a couple of valves, the cam is toast, the rest of the valve train is Ok.
So the question is what short block to build.
I've got a day or so before I have to start ordering parts.
This **** if driving me crazy...
To be continued.....
TonyG
The engine is apart. Not one... but two nice viewing portals on the sides of the block.
Looks like an oiling problem as one of the middle main crank journals looks has copper on it. But the worst is the rod journal #2 which is black and is the one that the rod broke on.
I've poured over the oil pressure data logs for the last 4 days of driving and cannot find any evidence of poor oil pressure no matter the G force or rpm.
The worst I saw was a couple instances of 28psi at 3900rpms ish.
What I did see was me over reving on a few down shifts and a couple on missed upshifts (a few to 8500rpms +).
I've got a spare 951 cross member and power steering rack on the way with a junk LS7 block mocked up with a a crank and a single rod/piston installed. This, along with the engine mounts, will be assembled and sent out to the oil pan shop to make a custom dry sump pan.
The heads are OK minus a couple of valves, the cam is toast, the rest of the valve train is Ok.
So the question is what short block to build.
I've got a day or so before I have to start ordering parts.
This **** if driving me crazy...
To be continued.....
TonyG
#1211
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Sorry to hear of the issues Tony. I'm on Evolution 5 of my car so far and I'm still tying up some loose ends, like trying to get the Boxster ABS working, etc...
#1213
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The piston squirters (all piston squirters) shoot oil on the bottom of the piston to cool the piston. Has nothing to do with rod lubrication.
GM dry sump systems (example: LS7) use a 2 stage internal oil pump (1 stage to pump the oil out of the sump..."evacuate", and 1 stage to pressurize the oil back into the engine).
These are hybrid systems not true race dry sump systems.
A true dry sump system has no internal pump in the engine. The pump is on the outside of the engine driven by a belt. And typically there are 3-4 stages of evacuation on the engine and 1 stage to pressurize the oil back to the engine. This is what I will be using.
TonyG
GM dry sump systems (example: LS7) use a 2 stage internal oil pump (1 stage to pump the oil out of the sump..."evacuate", and 1 stage to pressurize the oil back into the engine).
These are hybrid systems not true race dry sump systems.
A true dry sump system has no internal pump in the engine. The pump is on the outside of the engine driven by a belt. And typically there are 3-4 stages of evacuation on the engine and 1 stage to pressurize the oil back to the engine. This is what I will be using.
TonyG
#1215
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you ran 3.622" stroke with great success for many years. in the context of how you use your LS, that's a lot of stroke. and 3.825" is a way lot of stroke. with the LS7, you'd have only a small reduction in performance going back to 3.622". yes, the block can handle a big stroke under the spotlight of the automotive press's dynos and our trusted buiders... but, like the guys who track their Z06 engines on Saturday, it becomes a question of for how long? i can't help but wonder if the guys at Chevy were drooling at the prospect of all the feedback they'd be getting when people began racing the Z06's a few years ago.
*btw, the LS7 block w/ LS3 crank was used by Jerod Shelby to set the world speed record for a production car
in the Ultimate Aero (in 2007 before it was again, bested by the Veyron two years later).
*learned recently.
*btw, the LS7 block w/ LS3 crank was used by Jerod Shelby to set the world speed record for a production car
in the Ultimate Aero (in 2007 before it was again, bested by the Veyron two years later).
*learned recently.
Last edited by odurandina; 10-15-2014 at 08:51 AM.