docwyte

So I'm having issues with coolant temps for my LS1 on the track only. On the street it runs plenty cool, on the track it's not unusual for me to see 250F coolant temps.

Has anyone cut out the section on the nose where the front license plate mounts? See any appreciable temp loss? I'm debating opening that area up as well as getting a vented nose panel.

Radiator is a new Turbo radiator, all ducting is in place...

dand86951

Doc, I have a vented nose on mine which does feed a bit more air in. I still have the main bar where the license plate fits. My track water temps are usually around the 210F mark even at 4500' alt track. I do have a Evans water pump and after market radiator which is close to the Turbo rad in size.

acorad

Doc, oem-sized crankshaft pulley? Or undersized aftermarket to free up a few HP?

tjbreen

Getting the air in is only half the problem, getting it out is also important. I have been looking at venting the hood, like the 1960s Shelby Daytona Coupe, to help air get out after it flows through the radiator. The hood vent, with air fence on the front edge, will actually suck air out. In turbo cars, this should also help with intercooler performance.

Are you running any of the underbody panels? I spoke with someone recently who saw a 20 degree drop in engine coolant temp after re-fitting the underbody panels. They probably work to smooth airflow and help suck the air out of the engine compartment.

Tom M'Guinn

Not a V8 guy so can't offer much insight on that front, but keep in mind the metal bumper runs under the front nose, so it's not as simple as just cutting away the plastic. Also, what do you V8 guys do with the intercooler area and the duct that it had? While that duct is obviously set up to get air to the intercooler, you may reduce flow through the radiator if that duct is gone. I know lower temp thermostats are popular on LS1 motors -- what temp do you have? Also, it seems like a little thing, but I notice a meaningful reduction in temps from using water wetter and a low percentage of coolant (e.g. 15% coolant, 85% distilled water). Do you know if other LS1 users stay cooler on the track with a 951 radiator?

txhokie4life

How about running straight water in the warmer months -- and when you are worried about
freezes, add in some antifreeze.

Might be interesting if you had a way to check temps under the hood to see if there is adequate flow through there.

m

docwyte

OEM crank pulley. Under body trays there. Factory ducting in place. I have my air filter where the intercooler used to be. Lower temp t-stat is worthless. When I'm seeing 250F temps, having the t stat open at 160F doesn't help any.

I know I'd have to cut away the bumper beam behind the bumper cover as well, just don't think I have much choice.

Problem with comparing temps with other LS converted cars is they're not up at altitude. So even if they have lower temps, I may not be able to replicate them...

blown 944

You could try leaning the top of the radiator toward the rear. I had mine like that forever, and once I straightened it up I noticed temps were warmer. Went back to leaning it back. I'm my case it may be due to the inter cooler that covers the whole front end.

docwyte

No room for that...

disasterman

I just ran in 90 degree temp, 80 percent humidity with a water temp high of 210. Most of my temps were high 190's.

Large radiator tilted forward with a custom box to confine and channel. Cut out the fascia section/license plate area. All of the original metal between the trumpets was removed and replaced by a single rectangular tube/bar. Original bumper is in place

ninefiveone

The bumper bar isn't really behind the nose the way people imagine. The bumper bar is actually spanning the top opening (where the tow hook is).

So you can cut out the center section of the hose without issue. You'll be left with just the bottom of the bumper bar visible, which is actually quite thin.

Take a look at pictures of bumper support bars on ebay and you'll see what I mean.

Somewhere on rennlist is a picture of a 951 that has had this done. Looks great, greatly increases the surface area of the radiator directly open to air.

acorad

Isn't there some rule for intake area/radiator area? Something like 40/100?

MooreBoost

i cut that piece of the bumper out and fiberglassed it. still not done, lots of sanding to do. even with no ac condenser my car still gets hot. i think tjbreen has the right idea on venting the hood.

Tom M'Guinn

Any pictures of that set up?

docwyte

Rotella 5w40 synthetic. Tune done by Nick@MAC Autosport, he does all the local CMC racer cars.