Feramic Disc and Pressure Plates
#1
Racer
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Feramic Disc and Pressure Plates
Hey guys
I have a clutch package that I think is a great setup.
Brand new never used discs with 6 Feramic pucks on each side and a reworked stock Pressure Plate with Approximately 20% more holding power. Sid is running one of the discs right now and it is holding strong. I will be installing one in my car this week and one in my wife's as well. I have 5 sets ready to go and 5 re surfaces fly wheels if anyone needs them.
Disc and PP $525.00
Make and offer on the Fly Wheels
PM or Call me
I have a clutch package that I think is a great setup.
Brand new never used discs with 6 Feramic pucks on each side and a reworked stock Pressure Plate with Approximately 20% more holding power. Sid is running one of the discs right now and it is holding strong. I will be installing one in my car this week and one in my wife's as well. I have 5 sets ready to go and 5 re surfaces fly wheels if anyone needs them.
Disc and PP $525.00
Make and offer on the Fly Wheels
PM or Call me
#2
Damn great price for whole assembly. I'm very sure these will hold anything you guys can throw at it. Don't think for a second that these will hold anything less than whats out there. Probably more. The disc itself makes most of the difference.
#3
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Great prices! What's the engagement like?
#4
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Are you selling reworked units only or are you also re work a provided p plate and disc? If so, how much ? Do you provide a full face version as well ? Most puck style discs are not very userfriendly for daily driving.
#5
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#6
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I drove sids with this clutch and it is really not bad. I have a compund turbo cummins with a ceramic clutch and it its a grabby bitch. This one is nothing like that thing.
I might rework your pp just pm me.
I will figure out a price for the disc only.
And finally, would anyone be interested in kevlar? I have a line on those as well?
I might rework your pp just pm me.
I will figure out a price for the disc only.
And finally, would anyone be interested in kevlar? I have a line on those as well?
#7
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AS for my wife,,,, I do not know if she is going to like this one , just being honest!!! She might get mad at me (she wears high heals) so I am going to source some full faced Kevlar Discs and see what they are going to cost me!
BTW
I still have some of these for anyone who wants them
BTW
I still have some of these for anyone who wants them
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#8
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When you say its "really not bad" -- can you give a little more detail? Does it chatter at all from a stop? Do you have to slip it a bit to get smooth engagement off the line? Does the "feramic" material come from Southbend (I thought that was their material/name, no?)?
#9
My set up was a shorter throw with the clutch pedal and slightly grabby. I learned to shrink the engagement distance and eventually drove it just like regular clutch with no chatter unless I botched it or didn't care. The pedal strength was not at all like a stiff clutch. but for the 95% daily driver.. probably not. 80%.. Not a bad choice. 70%. You gotta have it.
#10
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Good explanation
Feramic friction coefficient is .7
Ceramic friction coefficient is .75 with 5 1/5 times accelerated iron wear over the feramic. This means it WILL groove into the flywheel and pressure plate 5 1/2 times faster then the feramic.
The breaking point where the feramic material looses its friction coefficient is 900 degrees and the ceramic is 700 degrees.
The melting point of the feramic is 1600 degrees and the ceramic is 1400 degrees.
This is the reason that the ceramic facings cost is 1/3 of the feramic.
========
Clutch Materials
Organic – Found on most OEM clutches and are a compound of several materials. Organic clutches are designed to allow for easy engagement as well as long life, and a broad temperature range. A plus for this type of clutch is that it is more resistant to damage caused by overheating, although if continually overheated slippage could become an issue.
Carbon/Kevlar Mix – These clutches operate similarly to that of the organic material clutch, but with a blend of just Carbon and Kevlar. This makes the Carbon/Kevlar clutch more durable and will have a longer life then the organic if used in a similar fashion.
Carbon – Has a very high temperature tolerance and is less prone to overheating. A trade off is that a carbon clutch has a harsher engagement then an organic or mixed clutched and will wear the flywheel surface quicker, especially in stop and go conditions.
Kevlar – Also has a high heat tolerance but can experience glazing of the clutch resulting in slipping until the glaze is worn off. Although it has a high heat tolerance if overheated it can ruin the clutch.
Ceramic – Characteristics are similar to those of carbon clutches, high heat tolerance but has a less harsh engagement then most other clutches designed for aggressive driving.
Feramic – Is a combination clutch that uses both carbon and sintered iron. This offers a good friction surface that allows for great grab as well as an easy engagement.
Sintered Iron – Designed for racecar applications has a very harsh engagement and acts as either engaged or disengaged with very little room in the middle. These types of clutches can withstand very high heat but require a special surfaced flywheel to accommodate for the harsh engagement of the clutch.
4 and 6 paddle feramic setups utilize a new aggressive but STREETABLE high-torque feramic button with a sprung or unsprung hub, matched heavy duty pressure plate, and release bearing. Most applications are available in either a sprung or unsprung hub. Paddle style feramic discs can be ordered in either a 6 button (semi-aggressive/high torque capacity) or 4 button (aggressive/max torque capacity) carrier. These new buttons go beyond the holding capacity of our ceramic units, have an excellent wear rating for both the material and contact surfaces, and are VERY streetable (unheard of in an aggressive clutch like this). The high holding capacity (110% or higher over the stock torque rating of the vehicle) of this clutch exceeds the ratings of some multi-disc clutches! Feramic kits are recommended for those who are in need of a street clutch with the holding capacity of a race clutch.
Ceramic friction coefficient is .75 with 5 1/5 times accelerated iron wear over the feramic. This means it WILL groove into the flywheel and pressure plate 5 1/2 times faster then the feramic.
The breaking point where the feramic material looses its friction coefficient is 900 degrees and the ceramic is 700 degrees.
The melting point of the feramic is 1600 degrees and the ceramic is 1400 degrees.
This is the reason that the ceramic facings cost is 1/3 of the feramic.
========
Clutch Materials
Organic – Found on most OEM clutches and are a compound of several materials. Organic clutches are designed to allow for easy engagement as well as long life, and a broad temperature range. A plus for this type of clutch is that it is more resistant to damage caused by overheating, although if continually overheated slippage could become an issue.
Carbon/Kevlar Mix – These clutches operate similarly to that of the organic material clutch, but with a blend of just Carbon and Kevlar. This makes the Carbon/Kevlar clutch more durable and will have a longer life then the organic if used in a similar fashion.
Carbon – Has a very high temperature tolerance and is less prone to overheating. A trade off is that a carbon clutch has a harsher engagement then an organic or mixed clutched and will wear the flywheel surface quicker, especially in stop and go conditions.
Kevlar – Also has a high heat tolerance but can experience glazing of the clutch resulting in slipping until the glaze is worn off. Although it has a high heat tolerance if overheated it can ruin the clutch.
Ceramic – Characteristics are similar to those of carbon clutches, high heat tolerance but has a less harsh engagement then most other clutches designed for aggressive driving.
Feramic – Is a combination clutch that uses both carbon and sintered iron. This offers a good friction surface that allows for great grab as well as an easy engagement.
Sintered Iron – Designed for racecar applications has a very harsh engagement and acts as either engaged or disengaged with very little room in the middle. These types of clutches can withstand very high heat but require a special surfaced flywheel to accommodate for the harsh engagement of the clutch.
4 and 6 paddle feramic setups utilize a new aggressive but STREETABLE high-torque feramic button with a sprung or unsprung hub, matched heavy duty pressure plate, and release bearing. Most applications are available in either a sprung or unsprung hub. Paddle style feramic discs can be ordered in either a 6 button (semi-aggressive/high torque capacity) or 4 button (aggressive/max torque capacity) carrier. These new buttons go beyond the holding capacity of our ceramic units, have an excellent wear rating for both the material and contact surfaces, and are VERY streetable (unheard of in an aggressive clutch like this). The high holding capacity (110% or higher over the stock torque rating of the vehicle) of this clutch exceeds the ratings of some multi-disc clutches! Feramic kits are recommended for those who are in need of a street clutch with the holding capacity of a race clutch.
#13
Rennlist Member
I'm tempted too. I was looking at a multi plate setup which would allow for custom flywheel which then means you can run off the standard positioning for speed and reference sensors when using a standalone...but that's clearly more expensive than this system offered by Dave. I loved the puk on the track and even on the road once moving. This one sounds more civilised than my previous version. Sid I'll be following how this goes once you start cranking your new beast up a bit.
I concur on the description of the Kevlar characteristics too. Had same symptoms on a Blazsak disk when it got hot. Started to slip but if you just backed off a bit and allowed it to cool it would hold again.
I concur on the description of the Kevlar characteristics too. Had same symptoms on a Blazsak disk when it got hot. Started to slip but if you just backed off a bit and allowed it to cool it would hold again.
#14
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Tomorrow night
My beast well be on the road with this setup tomorrow night and then I will have two of these discs running in colorado on hi horsepower cars
#15
Race Car
Tom, I think you might like this clutch. I wouldn't generally make this recommendation to you unless I felt confident that it was civil enough.
My pressure plate and this disc is quite a bit more aggressive and I would not say its civil at all. The factory worked piece seems to feel very easy to modulate and you can even downshift without matching rpms as much.
Just some info. I just drove it right after driving mine and there is a significant difference.
My pressure plate and this disc is quite a bit more aggressive and I would not say its civil at all. The factory worked piece seems to feel very easy to modulate and you can even downshift without matching rpms as much.
Just some info. I just drove it right after driving mine and there is a significant difference.