Oddjob

Your existing spring rate balance (front/rear effective rate ratio) is not out of line w/ how most dedicated track 951s are setup up by experienced guys & shops.


Not enough shared load on the coilovers, too much on the t-bars. How do you have the rear torsion bars indexed to work in conjunction w/ the coilover helper springs?

coilbox

My ´86 has no LSD, my inside wheel lifts and have no traction coming out of tight corners. With higher spring rates and thicker ARB for sure it would be worse.

Just asking if you would consider softer springs in the rear to help traction without LSD?

333pg333

I was just having fun with what you'd actually written:
"How does a LSD o open siff change spring/strut rates?"

I'm guessing you meant to say:
'How does an LSD or open diff change spring/strut rates?'
Probably a fair question and assumption that you'd have more issues by going stiffer everything. Best answer is to get an LSD rather than work backwards. Picking up or smoking an inside wheel really slows you down and wears the tyres out too.

White_951

Exactly what I was thinking...car was set up by PO so I'm not sure of the indexing....but the car handles beautifully, pretty much point and shoot...

Thanks!

67King

I'd suggest a limited slip. You don't need to lift for your inside wheel to spin, trust me - been there, done that, bought the T-shirt. A softer sway would help, but if you are really, truly lifting, i'd think stiffer springs would help because they would reduce weight transfer to the outside wheel, and they'd push the unloaded wheel down more. Weight transfer works sideways, not just fore-aft.

Skip Wolfe

Have you thought about ditching the tbars and just going with straight coilovers in the rear. Would highly recommend if it is primarily a track only car. It gives you the ability to tinker with spring rates easily and getting torsion bars correctly indexed and matched with the rear springs is very difficult - you are trying to get essentially two systems to work together.

White_951

I'm thinking about it...

Is this just a matter of pulling the spring plates, removing the TB's and reinstalling the spring plates?

Van

Most people put in the elephant racing poly-bronze bushings when they do this... Do a search and I think you'll find a lot about it. (Like do a search in the 944 forum for "tiki torch")

White_951

Yep...got em in my RS clone along with the monoballs....

Skip Wolfe

Yeah it is not the most fun job. Tedious but not too difficult and once it is done you don't have to worry about it again. And waaay easier than reindexing torsion bars.

White_951

Yep...burned off plenty of rubber in my time....

I'm goin' for it....

coilbox

Got the joke now

Thanks for the info.

mattipuh

Does the wheel rate / spring rate - values equal with newer ET car and older ET car in 944?
I know it comes all to susp geometry, but I have a feeling that older 944 has a different diameters in suspension in compared to newer 944, which would results in different calculation values to wheel rates.

and to the topic question.
I have 450lbs/inch fronts, wheels I use are ET67 with 5mm spacer so it equals 62mm. tires 255/35/18.
rears 700lbs/inch with ET44, tire size same 255/35/18

95ONE

I still see people using two calculations for the rear ratio. Its math and no one can agree to the same number? Weird. Arms are same dimensions for 86 or 87 and up.

mattipuh

that's true. Well, exact figures are not so important, as far as it goes like **** and feels soooo nice. ,)