According to the ARP instructions the preload torque is 100ft/lbs=135nm
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/204-4211.pdf
it sounds like a little to much?
i think raceware recommends only 65ft/lbs
Has anyone torqued to 100ft/lbs?

 

I am currently running Raceware studs torqued to 100 ft lbs., and all is good.

 

Checked clarks-garage. The sequence is somewhat different between the 8 valve and the 16 valve. Wonder if they are using 16 valve torque values as well. I have heard people use upto 100ft/lbs on Raceware. I would expect ARP to be the same.

 

And that would be Mr Tom that uses 100 ft/lbs .

 

Had never seen instructions specific to our cars thanks for posting, been running ARP studs at 90 ft lbs for several years now.

 

did you all retorque after starting the engine?

 

With Raceware studs and widefire gaskets, I've done it both ways -- re-torquing and not re-torquing. I have had nuts turn a bit on re-torque, however, so it is a calculated risk not to re-torque. When I re-torque, I go out and drive it (once without letting it cool) for 20 miles or so, complete with boosting, etc. The idea is that the engine expands when hot, and compresses the gasket a little thinner (for non-MLS gaskets) -- leaving the studs less tight when the engine cools. It's a pain because you have to remove the tower etc., and usually the nuts don't budge at all.

 

Did not, I talked with ARP and there recommendation at that time (with MLS gaskets) was to torque to 75 ft lbs in 3 stages let sit overnight check torque then final assembly (had no nut movement) ran that way for 50 k street miles then some slight coolant leakage into the cylinders, changed gaskets (MLS) torqued to 90 ft lbs this time, some 35 k street/track miles still good.

Interesting to note, current written instructions using ARP assembly lube, 3 equal steps to 100 ft lbs and your good to go.

 

I'm surprised to see them spec 100 ft lbs. too. I know at least some racers have been going this tight for a while on Raceware studs, but didn't think any company would officially endorse it. The instructions seem to be dated March 2011, so it may be a recent thing for ARP. I have not used an MLS gasket yet (have one ready to go on new motor) but assume there is less or no need for retorquing on those, since they presumably are not as prone to compressing thinner when the engine heats up and expands, the way stock and widefire gaskets are.

 

Hmmm, slightly OT, but would you guys recommend then re-torquing a widefire HG? I did the Clark's Garage method.

 

sounds too high guys, ebs and arp gave me a spec of between 65 ft lbs and 80 ft pounds at the max. I am not sure who is right, but anything over 80 just sounds too high for aluminum on aluminum with a steel stud.

 

There are people here running 100 lbs/ft with success. I know of a few engine builders that have told me between 95-100lbs/ft. I am sure they have done their research. A manufacturer always has to leave some room. Tuners and engine builder base their recommendation on true and tried values.
What is the point of torquing an ARP or a Raceware to factory spec? What are you getting?

 

Raceware would argue that 65 ft lbs results in higher tension on the its studs, compared to stock, primarily because of the finer thread pitch.