944 Transmission Walkthrough (image heavy)
10-03-2013, 03:56 PM
#61
Three Wheelin'
Well, just the LSD install is not that hard, but if you take the Porsche manual you'll be able to do all of the work.. I did my gearbox together with Flipo, actually it was just a LSD swap but to make sure we checked all the bearing and gears!
10-03-2013, 07:15 PM
#62
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hi Peedster
Basically the LSD is step 29 and 30. But you still need to remove the gearset from the diff carrier. This includes removing the gear selector shaft in step 5. It s not too difficult.
Seeing that the gearset is out, just inspect some of the bearings and their shells that are visible and replace if they look worn.
Im not sure about the Audi V8 diff.
Regards
Sean
Basically the LSD is step 29 and 30. But you still need to remove the gearset from the diff carrier. This includes removing the gear selector shaft in step 5. It s not too difficult.
Seeing that the gearset is out, just inspect some of the bearings and their shells that are visible and replace if they look worn.
Im not sure about the Audi V8 diff.
Regards
Sean
Sean: Do you have a walkthrough of only LSD install? :-)
Just bought an S2 box and hope it has the LSD but otherwise I might take the LSD from my turbo box and swap it in the S2.
Is this a direct swap and how hard is it to do this?
I've read that Audi V8 diff from late eighties fits in the 016 box if you just mill down one axle 5mm. This is a torsen diff but available cheap.
Any other things to do while doing this mod?
Thanks
Just bought an S2 box and hope it has the LSD but otherwise I might take the LSD from my turbo box and swap it in the S2.
Is this a direct swap and how hard is it to do this?
I've read that Audi V8 diff from late eighties fits in the 016 box if you just mill down one axle 5mm. This is a torsen diff but available cheap.
Any other things to do while doing this mod?
Thanks
10-04-2013, 02:23 AM
#63
Thanks,
And the 951 diff is the same unit found in the S2 AOT?
Setting diff preload and shimming is fairly easy to I hope but do this require any special tools?
I've read that TonyG gets the diff out from the side maybe without taking the main housing away? Is this possible or does the rear housing need to come out?
/Peter
And the 951 diff is the same unit found in the S2 AOT?
Setting diff preload and shimming is fairly easy to I hope but do this require any special tools?
I've read that TonyG gets the diff out from the side maybe without taking the main housing away? Is this possible or does the rear housing need to come out?
/Peter
10-04-2013, 06:05 AM
#64
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes same LSD, The shimming and preload can be done without the special tools, unfortunately only the 968 gearbox allows the diff to slide out without removing the gearset case. the 944 requires the case to be removed as the input shaft gets in the way.
Regards
Sean
Regards
Sean
11-17-2013, 09:16 PM
#67
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
No disassemble other than draining the fluid, at this point in time after reviewing the above procedure, if I can find an S2 AOT, I will just swap it out and not repair this standard UY code as I do not have the specialized tools
09-15-2014, 12:11 AM
#68
Race Car
Thank you Sean for such a great post. I just finished replacing the R&P in one of my spares. I wanted to try prior to having a new gearset cryo treated. So far everything seems ok running through the gears and the pattern looked good. I'm installing it tomorrow night and will report back.
The plan is to see how this goes, and if it doesn't go well, I'm going to try out the G31 box next.
It was an interesting experiment so far.
The plan is to see how this goes, and if it doesn't go well, I'm going to try out the G31 box next.
It was an interesting experiment so far.
09-15-2014, 11:59 AM
#69
Rennlist Member
Great post indeed! Thanks. I keep meaning to save this thread for fear the pictures will be red x's by the time I try to use it. Is there a way to download/save a thread, pictures and all?
09-15-2014, 07:14 PM
#71
Drifting
Thread Starter
Im glad its become of some good use to you guys. We have taken a lot of info from this forum and want to give back where we can.
I would be interested to see what would become of the G31 box, I have done a few rebuilds/reseals on them and just from visualising the internals, and the cast aluminium case(not like the cast steel on the 944) i just can't see it being stronger then a 944 box, in particular the turbo gearboxes. The 968 box does certainly look the strongest in regards to the larger G50 differential (larger C&P too). Gear size wise or strength it would be on par with the 944 turbo gearbox. There is no proof in my thoughts. Happy to be proven wrong too.
Sean
I would be interested to see what would become of the G31 box, I have done a few rebuilds/reseals on them and just from visualising the internals, and the cast aluminium case(not like the cast steel on the 944) i just can't see it being stronger then a 944 box, in particular the turbo gearboxes. The 968 box does certainly look the strongest in regards to the larger G50 differential (larger C&P too). Gear size wise or strength it would be on par with the 944 turbo gearbox. There is no proof in my thoughts. Happy to be proven wrong too.
Sean
09-21-2014, 03:00 PM
#72
Rennlist Member
A couple of tips for the 944 trans work.
1. I used an old clutch with a bar attached to hold the input shaft.
2. When assembling; set the pinion cluster in the steel case, then set the reverse idler gear.
3. The main shaft is easily installed into the steel case, without the collar for the rear bearing. Once the main shaft is set, then install the bearing collar.
4. the LSD trans will need the oil modifier to keep the LSD from chattering.
1. I used an old clutch with a bar attached to hold the input shaft.
2. When assembling; set the pinion cluster in the steel case, then set the reverse idler gear.
3. The main shaft is easily installed into the steel case, without the collar for the rear bearing. Once the main shaft is set, then install the bearing collar.
4. the LSD trans will need the oil modifier to keep the LSD from chattering.
06-25-2015, 05:00 AM
#73
2nd Gear
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hello
Great post, but I am having problems with the fork with the small lock in it, it will not insert back in hole, does it need to be pressed in?
Last edited by armye7; 06-25-2015 at 05:17 AM.
06-25-2015, 10:00 AM
#74
Rennlist Member
Great post, but I am having problems with the fork with the small lock in it, it will not insert back in hole, does it need to be pressed in?
Not sure where you are in the rebuild. What gear or location are you referring to?
Not sure where you are in the rebuild. What gear or location are you referring to?
06-25-2015, 03:14 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Make sure that the 1st/2nd and 5th/reverse control rods are in their neutral position. If not, their lock-out detents will intrude into the 3rd/4th control rod's bore and keep you from inserting the control rod.
With a flashlight and a small angle pick, push back on both detents to make sure it can move out of the way of the 3rd/4th control rod.
Do *not* force it in, not necessary and will only do bad things.
Make sure the pinion shaft is reasonably centered, perhaps propping it up. You want to have everything lined up in the gear carrier to get things to move properly: pinion shaft, 1st/2nd control rod, 5th/rev control rod, etc.
And if you think this is hard, let me tell you about doing a 924 type YR gearbox...
With a flashlight and a small angle pick, push back on both detents to make sure it can move out of the way of the 3rd/4th control rod.
Do *not* force it in, not necessary and will only do bad things.
Make sure the pinion shaft is reasonably centered, perhaps propping it up. You want to have everything lined up in the gear carrier to get things to move properly: pinion shaft, 1st/2nd control rod, 5th/rev control rod, etc.
And if you think this is hard, let me tell you about doing a 924 type YR gearbox...