Cylinder stabilization
#16
Drifting
After looking closely at my cometic hg I've come to the conclusion that the cylinders are moving. The gasket was cut through in perfect circles on the cylinder side on two cylinders. It appears the others were on the way.
I have decided to change my plans regarding trying to seal the cylinders.
I went ahead and cleaned the cooling area of the block, sealed off the water pump openings, and finally did a short fill of block filler. Basically raising the floor by 1.5".
This is a temporary engine and short of creating some sort of deck plate, I don't see a solid solution to be able to run high boost at all.
As most of the heat is transferred at the cylinder tops I'm hoping that it will run cool enough.
So now the current plan is to:
Change head studs
Use wide fire gasket to determine if problem is pseudo solved
Install huge oil cooler under my intercooler
If it appears that this helps, I will then try another cometic or go ahead with the o ringed head and wide fire hg
I'm letting it sit this whole week to harden and installing the oil cooler among other things.
Fingers crossed...
I have decided to change my plans regarding trying to seal the cylinders.
I went ahead and cleaned the cooling area of the block, sealed off the water pump openings, and finally did a short fill of block filler. Basically raising the floor by 1.5".
This is a temporary engine and short of creating some sort of deck plate, I don't see a solid solution to be able to run high boost at all.
As most of the heat is transferred at the cylinder tops I'm hoping that it will run cool enough.
So now the current plan is to:
Change head studs
Use wide fire gasket to determine if problem is pseudo solved
Install huge oil cooler under my intercooler
If it appears that this helps, I will then try another cometic or go ahead with the o ringed head and wide fire hg
I'm letting it sit this whole week to harden and installing the oil cooler among other things.
Fingers crossed...
Garrity may have some 2.5 deck plates left. PM me if interested.
#17
Nah, there have been many before me to push the envelope. I'm just too stupid to read...
I was going to do a twin charge until I used anti lag. Dave (dnovak) will probably do a compound setup. Keep an eye out for that.
I'm just going to focus on the 16v engines, and if they don't do it for me I'll join those who have traded for something else
(powerplant)
I was going to do a twin charge until I used anti lag. Dave (dnovak) will probably do a compound setup. Keep an eye out for that.
I'm just going to focus on the 16v engines, and if they don't do it for me I'll join those who have traded for something else
(powerplant)
Twincharging is a cool idea. I saw Volkswagen finally made one. Cool idea not sure how much total power could be made.
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
I know your not the first person to push the envelope, but I have followed what you have done ever since your mule project many years ago. I think its cool what your doing. How much power are you looking to make? 500, 600 HP? I hope you stick with these engines for a while.
Twincharging is a cool idea. I saw Volkswagen finally made one. Cool idea not sure how much total power could be made.
Twincharging is a cool idea. I saw Volkswagen finally made one. Cool idea not sure how much total power could be made.
I need to make a true 600 rwhp to run the speed I'm looking for. My best mph equalled around 420 true rwhp even with the slipping clutch.
So basing things off of my eighth mile mph and what it should have been I was probably around 450 rwhp.
Twin charging isn't really to make more power, just to change the curve. It could be fun, but honestly for my $$ I like the high compression and a quick spool turbo. At 400hp this setup runs nice. It does seem to have a limit though...lower total hp capability...
#19
Rennlist Member
20VT I5 is my plan too whenever the Porsche lump lets go.
#20
Nordschleife Master
I built a 2.5l about 5 years ago with a filled block. I think I only left about 1.5-2.0" up top, the rest was filled.
No cooling problems whatsoever and no problem with head lift at about 1.4 bar with a GT3582R. Ran Raceware stock diameter studs and Cometic Phuzion gasket.
No cooling problems whatsoever and no problem with head lift at about 1.4 bar with a GT3582R. Ran Raceware stock diameter studs and Cometic Phuzion gasket.
#22
Nordschleife Master
I used the 2.5l pump. Since the coolant ports for the water pump on the 100 mm block sits lower than the 104 mm block we had to block off and shape the block filler towards the port. Otherwise it would have been completely blocked off.
#23
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks Duke, did you try other gaskets before the phuzion? I have thought about that gasket, but will probably wait for the 16 v head and other shortblock.
Glad you didn't have coolIng problems. Gives me hope.
Glad you didn't have coolIng problems. Gives me hope.
#24
Nordschleife Master
I didn't try any other gaskets on that engine. Another interesting aspect of that engine was the large turbo meaning that focus was on power rather than torque. Makes the car faster and keeps the combustion pressure lower
#26
Nordschleife Master
#27
Race Car
Thread Starter
If this works even a little better I'm going to put the full 40 on with the .58 t.4 housing. That will be my final turbo selection anyway regardless of the high comp 2.5 or my 2.9 stroker.
#29
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#30
contact Jeff Lemons - he is working on a pretty trick head stud with integrated bed plate.
jeff@4451asr.com
jeff@4451asr.com