Dougs951

Are you going to resurface the cup disk? If not I may be interested in it.

toddk911

I plan to unless they suggest something better or a better deal.

If not I will sell it to you.

User 52121

For what it's worth my SB clutch has held up fine so far, at least as far as I can tell. Full season of AX with two drivers (and I won the season overall for my PCA region so I don't exactly tip toe) plus 4 DE's. For the price I'm definitely satisfied.

zerMATT951

This thread... Best clutch for street/track

Oh, and my new stock 951 pressure plate won't hold at full boost around 4,000 rpm in 4th and 5th gear. It slips a bit then catches... not a good feeling. From that thread and advice on a few phone calls, I came away with the impression that the stock PP could hold close to 400 HP. Apparently that is not true as I don't think I'm even at 350.

What really erks me is that the clutch did fine on a Sunday flogging of 200 miles with racerxrick and Ryan chasing me and the clutch felt fine. The a week or two later, I start to feel it slipping.

Live and learn...

Bri Bro

Are you sure you are not getting tire spin? Weather is colder, less grip on the tires. Its been my experience that once a clutch starts to slip, you need to back off a bit to get it to stop. What disk do you have?

zerMATT951

Well, I guess I do lift a bit when it happens, then I can get on it again after 4,500 or so when it hooks up. It's not wheel spin, it's the clutch. I even smelled once when I stayed in it too long trying to get around some cars. The disc is a Sachs 930.

Bri Bro

Well, if you can smell it then it is the clutch. Strange, I ran that setup for years with no issues at up to 18 lbs boost. Any leaks from the rear main and did you resurface the flywheel??

Bill

I run a centerforce clutch with 340 rwhp and love it. No slip and clutch pedal effort is slightly above stock due to the unique centrifical weights on the pressure plate. Check out their web site. Centerforce rates my clutch to 700 hp. After all a clutch job on a 944 is one of my least favorite jobs.

Tom M'Guinn

My fairly new stock clutch started slipping right around the 350rwhp mark. Find an uphill grade on the freeway and try full boost in 5th -- if it's going to slip, that will tease it out.

I've tried a spec disk, and had bad luck with it -- way too much chatter and shudder for a street car, although I'm sure it depends on the type of material you use.

I currently have a South Bend set up, and I give it very high marks, just shy of perfect. Their system uses a stock pressure plate modified for additional clamping force (which others have been known to do as well), along with a unique dual material disk. When I first installed it, it had virtually no shutter. Lately I've noticed that it has more shudder when starting in first than it originally did. If I slip it a tiny bit (e.g. rev to 1200 or so) I can get a perfectly smooth engagement. They have fantastic customer service also -- no endless waiting around -- even special orders are completed in a day or two.

toddk911

I saw that and you paid $170? They quoted me $250 for resurface of my Cup disk and stock PP.

The good thing about sending them our parts vs. buying new is they can put a real tq test on them and have a good number vs. marketing claims, which I think Chris W. mentioned on another thread that those are not really reliable.

Also for whom ever wants to chime in:

What is the difference in ceramic vs. feramic coatings and is there any real benefit for having the PP cryo? SB quoted only $40 for the cryo so I will probably do it anyway.

About the stock PP, I am running it with Cup clutch and 350whp+ and never a slip at all. I am doing a 2.8 swap, so this is why I am looking to make sure my clutch will hold and handle it now while the motor is out and not take a chance. Plus, the reline that SB does and for a 1/3 of the cost of a Spec 3 or Kep, etc. it will still have performance.

User 52121

Maybe their prices went up? I did it almost a year ago, and yes, it was $175.

reno808

Let me tell you why. I know this from experience because i have been told directly from the source.hence why i dont post alot of my findings unless someone comes directly to me. There prices has gone up since it was posted on rennlist. once they see the demand is high they can start raising prices specially since they are the only one that does what they do. i know this shop that does crazy welding work for a REALLY good price. i told this guy i knew and he told everyone in the honda fourms and now the guy has tripped his prices. full blown out headers from 320ss for $450 with v-bands now its $1200 plus v-band

zerMATT951

No leaks, and I was told that the flywheel looked fine, so it was just scuffed up a bit and re-used as-is. 16psi of boost seems to work just fine, but it doesn't want to hold 18. Doesn't even have to be an uphill grade... I just put my foot to the floor in 4th or 5th anywhere above 3,500 rpm and it jumps a few hundred rpm extra until i back off. I'm pretty sure it would go all the way to redline if I didn't lift.

Sounds like I need to make a dyno run at 16 psi to see how much power I'm putting down, then evaluate options to swap out some parts. The only good news is that I have a rebuild-able clutch and PP to use as cores if I need to go that route.

URG8RB8

I have the Southbend on my 300ZX turbo 450 rwhp, four years no issues and love it. I would think their 951 product would be great as well. I have the SPEC on one of my 951's but have never driven the car so can't comment I have another one in a box for my CA car ready to go in, but somehow my stock clutch is still holding. My two cents worth, make sure to balance assembly before installation! Too many people fail to have this done.

Dougs951

So the consensus is to not reline the original clutch?