Clutch for street/track
#1
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Clutch for street/track
I've done some searching and found many options, but the "best" clutch seems to always come down to specific power needs and how the car will be used, so I thought I'd run my situation by the group for some opinions:
My car will be mostly a DD with 2-4 DE's per year. I'm not into hard launches, no drag racing, but I do want to be able to punch it in any hear and not risk slipping. I haven't had the car dyno'd yet, but I suspect I'm between 300-340 HP, possibly more if I go with even more boost than I am now with E85. I would like a safety margin that would allow for 375-400 HP if I do more mods to the car after the clutch is installed.
I don't mind a slightly stiff pedal, but being a DD, I don't want to wear out my left leg during my 100-mi round-trip to and from work. Sure, it's mostly highway, but traffic issues happen...
I am thinking about the 930 disk with Sachs PP and bearing combo from Zims for $687. Can anyone confirm whether or not this would be a good choice? Are there better options out there? Better prices? Do I need a new fork, or should I sent mine to Marcus to be revuilt? Is it really worth the wait? Do I need any other parts?
Zims package:
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Clutc..._930_Disc.html
By the way... my TO bearing has been making some noise for a couple of weeks now, but today it started making some really strange noises so the car is parked until I decide what clutch to buy, and if I want to take the easy way out (drive it to Zims for a turn-key job) or take it to a local friend who has a weekend shop with a lift and will let me help/watch... Superdave. I just don't have many free weekends coming up .
My car will be mostly a DD with 2-4 DE's per year. I'm not into hard launches, no drag racing, but I do want to be able to punch it in any hear and not risk slipping. I haven't had the car dyno'd yet, but I suspect I'm between 300-340 HP, possibly more if I go with even more boost than I am now with E85. I would like a safety margin that would allow for 375-400 HP if I do more mods to the car after the clutch is installed.
I don't mind a slightly stiff pedal, but being a DD, I don't want to wear out my left leg during my 100-mi round-trip to and from work. Sure, it's mostly highway, but traffic issues happen...
I am thinking about the 930 disk with Sachs PP and bearing combo from Zims for $687. Can anyone confirm whether or not this would be a good choice? Are there better options out there? Better prices? Do I need a new fork, or should I sent mine to Marcus to be revuilt? Is it really worth the wait? Do I need any other parts?
Zims package:
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Clutc..._930_Disc.html
By the way... my TO bearing has been making some noise for a couple of weeks now, but today it started making some really strange noises so the car is parked until I decide what clutch to buy, and if I want to take the easy way out (drive it to Zims for a turn-key job) or take it to a local friend who has a weekend shop with a lift and will let me help/watch... Superdave. I just don't have many free weekends coming up .
#2
Nordschleife Master
I recommend the KEP Stage 1 with the Cup or 930 disc (i am running the KEP stage 1 / 930 disc). The KEP pressure plate is rated to 530ft-lbs using a stock disc, so figure about 450 at the wheels. With the slightly larger diameter 930 disc its probably a little higher.
Pedal effort is slightly higher, but still very manageable.. if i had to put a number on it i would say a 20-25% stiffer pedal. It is not a problem at all in traffic.
From previous postings it seems the stock pressure plate / disc combo is really only good to around 350whp or so.
Clutch fork is debatable i think, depending how your car was driven previously it may or may not have excessive wear on fork. The fork is NLA so your options are to have it rewelded or find a good used. Cant comment on the worth of the solid bearings to replace the needle bearings.
Pedal effort is slightly higher, but still very manageable.. if i had to put a number on it i would say a 20-25% stiffer pedal. It is not a problem at all in traffic.
From previous postings it seems the stock pressure plate / disc combo is really only good to around 350whp or so.
Clutch fork is debatable i think, depending how your car was driven previously it may or may not have excessive wear on fork. The fork is NLA so your options are to have it rewelded or find a good used. Cant comment on the worth of the solid bearings to replace the needle bearings.
#3
I would suggest going with Southbend. I have their set-up on my car and it holds at 15lbs with no issues. It is a stock disc and pressure plate, but the disc was recovered (they have many different options for material, and can do different materials on different sides) and the clamping force on the PP was increased. No noticeable difference in pedal feel, and the whole set-up was under $600.
BTW, a clutch job isn't hard, it's just time consuming!
BTW, a clutch job isn't hard, it's just time consuming!
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What does a KEP stage 1 cost? I don't see pricing on their website...
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I would suggest going with Southbend. I have their set-up on my car and it holds at 15lbs with no issues. It is a stock disc and pressure plate, but the disc was recovered (they have many different options for material, and can do different materials on different sides) and the clamping force on the PP was increased. No noticeable difference in pedal feel, and the whole set-up was under $600.
BTW, a clutch job isn't hard, it's just time consuming!
BTW, a clutch job isn't hard, it's just time consuming!
#6
Nordschleife Master
Paragon is one distributor for KEP, the stage 1 is $600. Well worth it in my opinion. You basically maintain all qualities of an OEM clutch setup with slightly more pedal effort. The stock clutch feel on these cars is abnormally light.. with the KEP it is literally like a stock car now. Another advantage of the KEP PP is that its slightly lighter than the stock plate, forget the actual savings but i think i posted it in my clutch thread from a few years back.
Just be mindful of the material you are picking for a clutch disc if you decide to upgrade that.. some materials are not very forgiving.
Just be mindful of the material you are picking for a clutch disc if you decide to upgrade that.. some materials are not very forgiving.
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I looked at the Paragon website and I don't see any mention of KEP clutches or kits... just what looks like OEM/Sachs options. I do see KEP racing pressure plates, but no clutches. Am I missing something?
Last edited by zerMATT951; 10-30-2011 at 09:46 AM.
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#8
Race Car
Have you considered a Centerforce (PP)? Had one a previous fun car with similar specs (2.3 turbo, ~330 horsepower, ~2800 lbs). My track car had one until I pulled it out a couple of months ago, for the specific reason of putting it in my street car, which will make a lot more power. Couldn't be happier with how the clutch was in both cases.
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Have you considered a Centerforce (PP)? Had one a previous fun car with similar specs (2.3 turbo, ~330 horsepower, ~2800 lbs). My track car had one until I pulled it out a couple of months ago, for the specific reason of putting it in my street car, which will make a lot more power. Couldn't be happier with how the clutch was in both cases.
Is there a list sponsor that sells Centerforce clutches?
#11
Give Southbend a call. Really knowledgeable guys. I'm running one of their clutches on my car. Granted my car is not making a lot of power - but they do offer a lot of options. I had my stuff reconditioned by them - sent them my old stock PP and disc, they rebuilt the PP and re-lined the disc. I went with their kevlar disc, and according to the guy there, I should be able to completely abuse it without concern (I told him I AX my car with my wife, as well as DE, wife is not good at heel/toe downshifts and has also been known to ride the clutch hard on starts - he said, "not a problem, you won't kill this clutch.") He also didn't try to over-sell me on their Stage Eleventy clutch... just sold me what he felt I needed.
I paid $175 + shipping to have them rebuild mine. (Note that did NOT include a new flywheel. I can't remember if it included the throw-out bearing.)
So far though, it works great. I've put ~15k on it so far - lots of AX'ing this year (x2 people driving) plus 3 DE's and not a peep out of it.
Just call them and talk to the guy.
http://www.southbendclutch.com/
I paid $175 + shipping to have them rebuild mine. (Note that did NOT include a new flywheel. I can't remember if it included the throw-out bearing.)
So far though, it works great. I've put ~15k on it so far - lots of AX'ing this year (x2 people driving) plus 3 DE's and not a peep out of it.
Just call them and talk to the guy.
http://www.southbendclutch.com/
Last edited by User 52121; 10-31-2011 at 01:19 PM.
#12
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I don't want to rain on big hp aftermarket clutches, but if they have way higher clamping force than stock, it's not good.
Really the only way that main bearings fail in this car is thrust bearing failure from riding the clutch and/or using clutches with high clamping force.
I make plenty of hp and use a sachs cup-car clutch without incident.
Really the only way that main bearings fail in this car is thrust bearing failure from riding the clutch and/or using clutches with high clamping force.
I make plenty of hp and use a sachs cup-car clutch without incident.
#14
Three Wheelin'
I have a centerforce as well with no issues. However, they don't seem to be well recommended among the 951 crowd, so be warned. I got a smoking deal on mine used (but never installed) from a friend, that's why I went with it.
#15
This didn't cost
me any drachmas
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I've picked up a Spec Stage II clutch kit with one of their light weight steel billet flywheels that'll go in once I start modifying my car.