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Engine removal

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Old 07-26-2002, 04:28 PM
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Dan87951
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Post Engine removal

A buddy of mine and I have been trying to remove this engine with my hoist for the past 2 days with no luck!! The engine is completely tore down and the only thing on it is the turbo and AC. We are trying to go out the top and the fat oil pan just likes hitting on the steering arm, however the steering arm bolts are completely striped and will not remove. If we could just break the torque tub loose I could get it out however the torque tube must have 2 feet of tube into the bell housing which makes it impossible to slide forward and get out. Please don't tell me to remove it from the bottom all I want is advice to go out the top. I was told you could remove the engine out the top with the steering still connected. I can't remember who told me that but either I must be crazy because I do not see how??
Old 07-26-2002, 04:48 PM
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R.B.
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Just a few things that might help. The steering rod has a single bolt on each end the squeezes the
the rod closed over a splined shaft. remove that bolt and the whole rod with u-joints slide off.
2nd if you haven't done so, remove the rad and fans, without them gone you can forget about moving the engine forward enough. Third, you need to tilt the engine as you are removing it so you need someway of redistributing the weight on your engine hoist as you lift it. And yes the drive shaft is sticking a good 10 inches out of the torgue tube into the bell housing. Becareful not to damage this shaft.

Hope this helps.

R.B.
Old 07-26-2002, 04:55 PM
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Dan87951
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1.There are 2 bolts on either end of the steering rod however the bolt near the fire wall is fine but the other bolt on the opposite end is complete stripped out and rusted.

2. Fans are removed

3. I'll try.
Old 07-26-2002, 04:56 PM
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Steve Lavigne
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I was told you could remove the engine out the top with the steering still connected.

I can't imagine how you could move the engine forward more than an inch without removing the crossmember. Sounds to me like you got some bad advice. Is there anyone on this board who has actually removed the engine with the crossmember in place?
Old 07-26-2002, 05:51 PM
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Doc
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I won't tell you to remove the engine out the bottom, but here's a picture just so you have some reference as to how long the torque tube shaft is.

Old 07-26-2002, 06:28 PM
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Dan87951
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My gosh Doc thanks for the reality check. I finally got the steering assembly disconnected (Purchased a dremal and cut bolts off) and now I have as much room as I need up to the radiator. However I can pull on the front of the motor with all my might and it will not budge forward?? I thought it was suppose to “slide right out”?? Yes I’m not hitting the cross member on the bottom as I clear it perfectly with about 1/4-1/2 inch clearance. Back to the garage.
Old 07-26-2002, 10:07 PM
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Dan87951
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THanks Guys engine is out I have some very intersting pictures to post of cylinder walls and pistons now that they are pulled. Doesn't look good for #3!
Old 07-27-2002, 03:29 AM
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WillyC4S
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Dan,

Glad to see that you've got the engine removed from your car.

I'd like to find out more about the engine issues you posted last. Was there a specific reason that caused you to pull the motor? Sounds like some major damage to the walls and piston. Was this just a normal removal to re-build the engine due to extended mileage, or was there some catastrophic event that made you take the engine out? I'm hoping that the damage is not normal "wear and tear" for a 200,000 mile 951.

*****
Old 07-27-2002, 01:28 PM
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Dan87951
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*****,
I removed the engine because it locked up on me. The reason it locked was beacause the #3 piston ring had broke scoring my #3 cylinder pretty bad. However the rest of the cylinders were in pretty good shape, same with the other pistons. To say the least I was very disapointed that the #3 ring broke causing all the damage. Lucky me it didn't damage anything else because when it locked up it was being started over by the starter motor and the car was not running.



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