Paulyy

wow the door rapped around the rollcage.

patrick, did the roof get any damage? or just the side?

333pg333

Bit confused here Tony, are you saying that my car looks like it has more droop than yours? It looks more in the pics because I'm below the wheels on the hoist but they don't look like a lot of wheel travel when viewing in the metal.

That's actually the oem door bars doing their job Pauly. I thought it was the cage at first glance too. No, roof and floor look good. I think we're going to be ok. Just needs more of that stuff you chuck on fires to keep them burning...what's it called again...oh yeah, money!

ausgeflippt951

Sorry I should've been more clear. You should be seeing full droop when both rear wheels are off the ground given that the sway bar is not doing anything at that point.

My observation is that the amount of droop you were seeing was way less than what I see on my car. It looked closer to the amount of 'droop' I get when i only lift ONE wheel off the ground -- I.e., when the sway bar is doing it's job...

My point is that it does look like your shocks are limiting droop. Probably too much.

Duke

Or something else binding.

TonyG

The point here is the supposed major contributing factor to the loss of control of the car, according to the data (assuming it's correct data), is that the rear inside tire was fully extended and was out of travel due to the shortened length of the rear shock.

Looking at the picture of the car on the lift, one would have to picture the car, with stiff springs, rolling over so far that you would see several inches between the top of the wheel and the fender flare (just like you see in the picture). And I just don't see how that could be. Mine doesn't roll over that far. No where close.

And it's fair to say that the fender flares are lower than the OEM fenders. They have to be otherwise you'd see the cut sheet metal...which you don't. Thus there's probably more wheel travel than what appears to be from the photo.

That's just my take.

TonyG

ausgeflippt951

That definitely is a good point. Shrug.

Duke

..and the rear sway bar was disconnected right? In that case Tony's point definitely makes sense.

TonyG

Patrick (and everybody else).

Here's a pic of the AIR 3" wide body quarter panels I just picked up today for my car :-) This is what you want.

TonyG

Dubai944

Nice.

333pg333

Yes, I just don't know and it's driving me quite a bit insane not knowing what the definitive cause was. I'm still thinking it's more than one reason but can't claim to know the exact combination. Going to be a few more weeks before work even resumes on the car. More time for it to rattle around in my head for days/weeks on end. More YaY!!!

Chris White

It doesn’t cross at 5252 because the HP and Torque are on separate axis of the graph. Usually they are displayed against the same axis with something else (boost or AFR) on the other axis.

I would guess that the boost is dropping off as the RPMs go up – the torque curve is falling off immediately after the peak. Next time make sure you get some more info on the chart! Hopefully next item will not be too far away- good luck with the repairs. Remember – any repair is just a good excuse to make it better!

Chris White

Wait a minute - did you really run it over 7500 rpm?
I am begining to wonder if these guys know how to operate their dyno.....

Paulyy

well his maximum power is at ~7000rpm. i've been told that 6300 rpm is the limit the stock internals should take before failing. IICR this is an NA block with turbo running gear.

TonyG

The block has nothing to do with it nor does where the HP peak comes in.

Stock rods and/or rod bolts will fail before 7000rpms. And without a good set of valve springs/retainers valves will float over 700rpms as well.

TonyG

333pg333

Chris, see post # 432-page 29 to see the boost curve. Doesn't look bad at all.