Patrick's build thread. (IT RUNS!)
#376
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Lol, by the time I get to use a dry sumped motor I will need 5 plate custom clutch and flywheel anyway. Any and all of those options might be some time away....
#377
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You're getting to be like Rolex. All you REALLY want is to gain sympathy from building the damned car. you don't actually ever want to drive it!
#378
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Oh but you're wrong Elliot. I want to drive the ****** so very much!! Re-crossing fingers to be out there in a week.
#379
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Sorry for your delay, you're so close now!!
#380
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A couple of thoughts –
I am sure you know I am not a fan of the stock starter ring gear trigger system, so keep in mind that I am biased!
The Clewitt system uses a ½” mag sensor that is very forgiving when it comes to the gap, I have seen it run fine with gaps as large as .100” – on an Electromotive system. Each system has a bias towards a certain type of sensor, Haltech works much better with a hall effect sensor, Electromotive works better with a magnetic sensor – I don’t know which type works better on a Motec unit.
The stock location is more susceptible to RFI noise from the starter. It may be possible that the Motec is picking up enough noise during cranking to flag an error.
What is the position of the cam trigger home relative to TDC? The optimal position for most systems is 60-80 degrees before TDC.
I am sure you know I am not a fan of the stock starter ring gear trigger system, so keep in mind that I am biased!
The Clewitt system uses a ½” mag sensor that is very forgiving when it comes to the gap, I have seen it run fine with gaps as large as .100” – on an Electromotive system. Each system has a bias towards a certain type of sensor, Haltech works much better with a hall effect sensor, Electromotive works better with a magnetic sensor – I don’t know which type works better on a Motec unit.
The stock location is more susceptible to RFI noise from the starter. It may be possible that the Motec is picking up enough noise during cranking to flag an error.
What is the position of the cam trigger home relative to TDC? The optimal position for most systems is 60-80 degrees before TDC.
#381
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I was wondering about that type of setup Duke. What would be entailed? When one sees advertisements for multi disc clutches does this mean that there has to be a custom flywheel built each time too? Never seem to see an accompanying advertisement for those?
#382
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Yes a custom fly wheel would have to be built. But you have more headaches than that to fit a multi disc clutch. First of all it might be too tall to fit within the bell housing, second of all you need a custom release setup (so you can de-engage!)
#383
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Patrick, I sent you a detailed email. Using the 132 teeth + Cam signal, will generate speed/ref sync errors.
I had this back in the 90s on my 3L with Motec. Ignition timing did not deviate, but I did not test every possible condition.
The issue is related that you cannot divide 360 by 132. (360/6 = 60 for 60-2 trigger wheel.. or 360/10=36 for 36-1...). Unless the Motec firmware changed (possible) this is the main reason 360/132= 2.727 and Motec does not like it... My information comes from the Motec field engineers I worked with back then.
A simple solution would be to add a 60-2 or 36-1 wheels at the front of the engine. Or use 12 teeth (set screws) on the flywheel. + CAM sensor.
I had this back in the 90s on my 3L with Motec. Ignition timing did not deviate, but I did not test every possible condition.
The issue is related that you cannot divide 360 by 132. (360/6 = 60 for 60-2 trigger wheel.. or 360/10=36 for 36-1...). Unless the Motec firmware changed (possible) this is the main reason 360/132= 2.727 and Motec does not like it... My information comes from the Motec field engineers I worked with back then.
A simple solution would be to add a 60-2 or 36-1 wheels at the front of the engine. Or use 12 teeth (set screws) on the flywheel. + CAM sensor.
#384
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On the topic of multi plate clutches, Exedy have a twin and a tripple plate clutch listed for the 944 turbo series cars. which is quite interesting. only problem is they don't show torque ratings.
#385
I'm using a Tilton quad disc. 5.5" It's rated around 1000ft lbs of torque. (only because of the great deal I got on it) The Triple is rated at 750ft lbs. (What I would have used.) The twin disc is rated at 500ft lbs. (What I would suggest for anyone else) It's an on / off sort of clutch. No in between. If you try to feather it, it just burns up. There are other discs that are a little more forgiving, but they can't hold as much.
Tilton also offers a 7.5" that holds as much with only one or 2 discs. But the inertia is greater. Then there's the carbon set up, but you could buy 2 or 3 used 951s for that price.
Not that this information is much help though. All my stuff is one-off custom this and that to make it work using custom stuff. - I'm beginning to think I must actually hate myself and this is my own form of self torture.
Tilton also offers a 7.5" that holds as much with only one or 2 discs. But the inertia is greater. Then there's the carbon set up, but you could buy 2 or 3 used 951s for that price.
Not that this information is much help though. All my stuff is one-off custom this and that to make it work using custom stuff. - I'm beginning to think I must actually hate myself and this is my own form of self torture.
Last edited by 95ONE; 03-23-2012 at 03:41 PM.
#386
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Thread Starter
A couple of thoughts –
I am sure you know I am not a fan of the stock starter ring gear trigger system, so keep in mind that I am biased!
The Clewitt system uses a ½” mag sensor that is very forgiving when it comes to the gap, I have seen it run fine with gaps as large as .100” – on an Electromotive system. Each system has a bias towards a certain type of sensor, Haltech works much better with a hall effect sensor, Electromotive works better with a magnetic sensor – I don’t know which type works better on a Motec unit.
The stock location is more susceptible to RFI noise from the starter. It may be possible that the Motec is picking up enough noise during cranking to flag an error.
What is the position of the cam trigger home relative to TDC? The optimal position for most systems is 60-80 degrees before TDC.
I am sure you know I am not a fan of the stock starter ring gear trigger system, so keep in mind that I am biased!
The Clewitt system uses a ½” mag sensor that is very forgiving when it comes to the gap, I have seen it run fine with gaps as large as .100” – on an Electromotive system. Each system has a bias towards a certain type of sensor, Haltech works much better with a hall effect sensor, Electromotive works better with a magnetic sensor – I don’t know which type works better on a Motec unit.
The stock location is more susceptible to RFI noise from the starter. It may be possible that the Motec is picking up enough noise during cranking to flag an error.
What is the position of the cam trigger home relative to TDC? The optimal position for most systems is 60-80 degrees before TDC.
Patrick, I sent you a detailed email. Using the 132 teeth + Cam signal, will generate speed/ref sync errors.
I had this back in the 90s on my 3L with Motec. Ignition timing did not deviate, but I did not test every possible condition.
The issue is related that you cannot divide 360 by 132. (360/6 = 60 for 60-2 trigger wheel.. or 360/10=36 for 36-1...). Unless the Motec firmware changed (possible) this is the main reason 360/132= 2.727 and Motec does not like it... My information comes from the Motec field engineers I worked with back then.
A simple solution would be to add a 60-2 or 36-1 wheels at the front of the engine. Or use 12 teeth (set screws) on the flywheel. + CAM sensor.
I had this back in the 90s on my 3L with Motec. Ignition timing did not deviate, but I did not test every possible condition.
The issue is related that you cannot divide 360 by 132. (360/6 = 60 for 60-2 trigger wheel.. or 360/10=36 for 36-1...). Unless the Motec firmware changed (possible) this is the main reason 360/132= 2.727 and Motec does not like it... My information comes from the Motec field engineers I worked with back then.
A simple solution would be to add a 60-2 or 36-1 wheels at the front of the engine. Or use 12 teeth (set screws) on the flywheel. + CAM sensor.
I'm using a Tilton quad disc. 5.5" It's rated around 1000ft lbs of torque. (only because of the great deal I got on it) The Triple is rated at 750ft lbs. (What I would have used.) The twin disc is rated at 500ft lbs. (What I would suggest for anyone else) It's an on / off sort of clutch. No in between. If you try to feather it, it just burns up. There are other discs that are a little more forgiving, but they can't hold as much.
Tilton also offers a 7.5" that holds as much with only one or 2 discs. But the inertia is greater. Then there's the carbon set up, but you could buy 2 or 3 used 951s for that price.
Not that this information is much help though. All my stuff is one-off custom this and that to make it work using custom stuff. - I'm beginning to think I must actually hate myself and this is my own form of self torture.
Tilton also offers a 7.5" that holds as much with only one or 2 discs. But the inertia is greater. Then there's the carbon set up, but you could buy 2 or 3 used 951s for that price.
Not that this information is much help though. All my stuff is one-off custom this and that to make it work using custom stuff. - I'm beginning to think I must actually hate myself and this is my own form of self torture.
#387
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on the site, (i can't copy and paste the link because it's flash not html, it'll just take you to the main page) when you search porsche / 944 / turbo in the drop down menu, it shows a lot of different options like single, twin and tripple. then the disc compounds and stuff. but no prices and torque ratings nothing.
I've spoken to a few people that sell them but they couldn't tell me any specs about them
I've spoken to a few people that sell them but they couldn't tell me any specs about them
#388
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Thanks for the tip. Be interesting to find out about their setups including custom flywheels.
#389
Patrick,its a combination of research, custom chevy parts, drilling, machining, a lot of measuring, and a custom spec'd out hydraulic release bearing. Then theres the custom torque tube that will have a flange welded on to bolt to the tilton magnesium bell housing made for a chevy.
#390
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Ahh, so it's bolt on Bruce.