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#46
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Correct, the only two components that make the /8 worth more are the turbine (which as you correctly thought is connected to the shaft) and the hotside. You have only the hotside which has some value if people want to put a custom turbine in it or they came across an /8 turbine somewhere else and don't have the housing. A very specific market would want those parts, but as a whole turbocharger that thing is done unless someone wants to sink more money into it than its worth. It might not even be possible to source a new /8 turbine as BW has discontinued a lot of the old production lines.
I can read the specs on that brown paper. Looks like the same dimensions as mine. Is this going in today? Look forward to hearing how it performs and if there is any smoke with the new turbo....Keep us posted. Good luck getting it in there. You might have to do some grinding on the turbine housing and/or small screws on the intake manifold to get it to clear the intake manifold. I just put mine back in and it was a ***** lining up the mounting bolts and crossover bolts. Finally got it to line up with long pole, rachet straps, and a floor jack. I never took the exhaust side of the crossover pipe off only undid the turbo side. It would have been easier if I could be on top of the engine and underneath the car at the same time.
Question: How have people adapted the turbo temp sensor back into the picture after abandoning the pipe w/temp sensor fitting that the larger housing doesn't have enough room for?? I'm assuming that there is a benefit to that sensor, and I definitely want to keep the electric turbo coolant pump functioning.
Sure, just let me know. Its freshly ceramic coated with Jet Hot Sterling 1700. Oh, and I'm pretty sure it's a /6 housing, not a /8 housing as the PO left this "cheater" 26/6 in place when the engine was swapped. I have no idea what makes it a cheater, but if it's the compressor wheel, that part is still good too.
#47
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Good luck getting it in there. You might have to do some grinding on the turbine housing and/or small screws on the intake manifold to get it to clear the intake manifold. I just put mine back in and it was a ***** lining up the mounting bolts and crossover bolts. Finally got it to line up with long pole, rachet straps, and a floor jack. I never took the exhaust side of the crossover pipe off only undid the turbo side. It would have been easier if I could be on top of the engine and underneath the car at the same time.
#48
Question: How have people adapted the turbo temp sensor back into the picture after abandoning the pipe w/temp sensor fitting that the larger housing doesn't have enough room for?? I'm assuming that there is a benefit to that sensor, and I definitely want to keep the electric turbo coolant pump functioning.
Take a look at my thread "Finally finish cleaning the engine bay" page 5
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=76215
I heated the stock piece up with a propane torch and bent it to the shape you see in the pic. It has work well ever since. You just need a vice to hold it while you heat it up and then I used a larger pipe for leverage to bend it.
After bending you could get it phosphate coated again. I didn't coat mine since there is close source to me. My plating was done by Lindsey Racing. No good Canadian sources for that.
Jason
Take a look at my thread "Finally finish cleaning the engine bay" page 5
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=76215
I heated the stock piece up with a propane torch and bent it to the shape you see in the pic. It has work well ever since. You just need a vice to hold it while you heat it up and then I used a larger pipe for leverage to bend it.
After bending you could get it phosphate coated again. I didn't coat mine since there is close source to me. My plating was done by Lindsey Racing. No good Canadian sources for that.
Jason
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Thom, I forgot to ask did you ever run the vacuum or plastic bag test on the oil entrance? I cant remember if your car was running right now or not. I would be curious to see the results. I will be running it next week provided my car still smokes.
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I can't see how you connected the banjo fitting to the new turbo in those pics. My Super 53 has a tapered pipe thread for the water connections, so going with the banjo isn't an option. Dave suggested cutting the pipe behind the Y and use the front half, but that also removes the temp sensor fitting. I am thinking about using a brass T fitting and somehow secure the temp sensor to that T.
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I can't see how you connected the banjo fitting to the new turbo in those pics. My Super 53 has a tapered pipe thread for the water connections, so going with the banjo isn't an option. Dave suggested cutting the pipe behind the Y and use the front half, but that also removes the temp sensor fitting. I am thinking about using a brass T fitting and somehow secure the temp sensor to that T.
Just a thought.
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I'm a believer in as much cooling as possible, car, motorcycle, house... whatever it is. It's gonna be really hot in the engine bay down here, so I figure why not use the available resources to help out. Plus, no turbo likes being shut off hot, modern or not, and that little water pump is one more "layer" of protection if I'm in a hurry and don't have time to sit and idle for a few minutes after a drive.
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I'm a believer in as much cooling as possible, car, motorcycle, house... whatever it is. It's gonna be really hot in the engine bay down here, so I figure why not use the available resources to help out. Plus, no turbo likes being shut off hot, modern or not, and that little water pump is one more "layer" of protection if I'm in a hurry and don't have time to sit and idle for a few minutes after a drive.
But you do make a good point about the simple convenience and piece of mind that is provided by having that little electric pump run when you walk away from the car... I've gotten pretty used to it, I might freak out if I didn't have it any more (even if it was on purpose)
#56
I will do the plastic bag test with and without the PCV set up - I have a PCV from a Toyota Supra on the way from the local dealer, as this is what John from Vitesse recommended in the other thread, and will be monitoring crankcase pressure/vacuum with and without the PCV set up. I will for sure let you all know of the results.
Last edited by Thom; 09-18-2011 at 05:19 AM.
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How does John's PCV setup *add* vacuum to the crankcase? I think I missed that. Simple routing the AOS back to the MAF pipe even with a PCV valve does not introduce vacuum at idle because there is no vacuum to be had at that spot. Or is the plan to tap into a larger hose connected to the intake manifold like the brake booster or idle air control line? I would like to see a diagram of that setup if from someone who has done it or from someone who plans to do it.
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I was under the impression that it was set up the same way as you set it up Matt in the diagram. I just thought he replaced your VW PCV valve with the Toyota Supra one. That is what I was planning to do anyway.