zerMATT951

I suspected that another rebuild would be difficult, not worth the money, or both. Sounds like you've just confirmed that.. thanks!

It will be in today or tomorrow if I can get the necessary garage time in while my mom is in town visiting. Dave Lindsey tells me that the compressor tab that is ground off combined with the new TB screws he sent should create enough clearance. I just picked up some brass hose barbs to adapt the water lines (straight nipples were provided), so I may be good-to-go.

Question: How have people adapted the turbo temp sensor back into the picture after abandoning the pipe w/temp sensor fitting that the larger housing doesn't have enough room for?? I'm assuming that there is a benefit to that sensor, and I definitely want to keep the electric turbo coolant pump functioning.

Sure, just let me know. Its freshly ceramic coated with Jet Hot Sterling 1700. Oh, and I'm pretty sure it's a /6 housing, not a /8 housing as the PO left this "cheater" 26/6 in place when the engine was swapped. I have no idea what makes it a cheater, but if it's the compressor wheel, that part is still good too.

zerMATT951

Forgot to mention that the LR-modified crossover with v-band clamp makes a big difference with the task. I'll do one test fit with the turbo bolted down to make sure everything is clocked correctly, pull it and tighten the housings, then set it back in place to get everything bolted down. I just with I had the Quest alternator right now, but it should work anyway.

gruhsy

Question: How have people adapted the turbo temp sensor back into the picture after abandoning the pipe w/temp sensor fitting that the larger housing doesn't have enough room for?? I'm assuming that there is a benefit to that sensor, and I definitely want to keep the electric turbo coolant pump functioning.


Take a look at my thread "Finally finish cleaning the engine bay" page 5

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=76215

I heated the stock piece up with a propane torch and bent it to the shape you see in the pic. It has work well ever since. You just need a vice to hold it while you heat it up and then I used a larger pipe for leverage to bend it.

After bending you could get it phosphate coated again. I didn't coat mine since there is close source to me. My plating was done by Lindsey Racing. No good Canadian sources for that.

Jason

Thom

Looking forward to hearing if the new turbo will also require the PCV set up

Clown

Me too Thom....Should have my stuff this week. Cant wait to see if my turbo still smokes after a new rebuild.

Clown

Thom, I forgot to ask did you ever run the vacuum or plastic bag test on the oil entrance? I cant remember if your car was running right now or not. I would be curious to see the results. I will be running it next week provided my car still smokes.

zerMATT951

I can't see how you connected the banjo fitting to the new turbo in those pics. My Super 53 has a tapered pipe thread for the water connections, so going with the banjo isn't an option. Dave suggested cutting the pipe behind the Y and use the front half, but that also removes the temp sensor fitting. I am thinking about using a brass T fitting and somehow secure the temp sensor to that T.

Crackership

I know you just replaced a lot of the stuff that supports a water-cooled turbo, but is that the only reason you're not going with a dry setup? From my understanding, modern turbos really don't need to be water cooled, and going dry would really clean a lot of spaghetti out of the engine bay.

Just a thought.

zerMATT951

I'm a believer in as much cooling as possible, car, motorcycle, house... whatever it is. It's gonna be really hot in the engine bay down here, so I figure why not use the available resources to help out. Plus, no turbo likes being shut off hot, modern or not, and that little water pump is one more "layer" of protection if I'm in a hurry and don't have time to sit and idle for a few minutes after a drive.

Crackership

You know, I didn't even think about the weather there being a consideration... It's easy to forget when you live in a place that's almost never over 75degrees, and only has a few days each summer that get into the 80's or 90's.

But you do make a good point about the simple convenience and piece of mind that is provided by having that little electric pump run when you walk away from the car... I've gotten pretty used to it, I might freak out if I didn't have it any more (even if it was on purpose)

Thom

No I didn't do the plastic bag test, and for various reasons it's a good 4 weeks before I will be able to crank the engine again.
I will do the plastic bag test with and without the PCV set up - I have a PCV from a Toyota Supra on the way from the local dealer, as this is what John from Vitesse recommended in the other thread, and will be monitoring crankcase pressure/vacuum with and without the PCV set up. I will for sure let you all know of the results.

zerMATT951

How does John's PCV setup *add* vacuum to the crankcase? I think I missed that. Simple routing the AOS back to the MAF pipe even with a PCV valve does not introduce vacuum at idle because there is no vacuum to be had at that spot. Or is the plan to tap into a larger hose connected to the intake manifold like the brake booster or idle air control line? I would like to see a diagram of that setup if from someone who has done it or from someone who plans to do it.

Thom

The way I see it is that the only difference with your set up is that the PCV is added between the blue/black check valve and the crankcase.

Clown

I was under the impression that it was set up the same way as you set it up Matt in the diagram. I just thought he replaced your VW PCV valve with the Toyota Supra one. That is what I was planning to do anyway.

zerMATT951

So you guys would both still use the blue/black check valve going to the intake manifold?