Clutch time...factory or upgrade?
01-26-2003, 11:14 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Clutch time...factory or upgrade?
My car will be going in for a clutch in the near future...my trusted mechanic recommends the stock clutch.
So, Should I upgrade to a centerforce or something similar or will the stock clutch work just fine? The most I'll end up with on this clutch will I think be 300, 325 RWHP.
What should I expect to spend on parts? My mechanic wants to supply the parts (and wont allow me to supply them), but I want to have an idea of what it should cost.
thanks,
Adrial
So, Should I upgrade to a centerforce or something similar or will the stock clutch work just fine? The most I'll end up with on this clutch will I think be 300, 325 RWHP.
What should I expect to spend on parts? My mechanic wants to supply the parts (and wont allow me to supply them), but I want to have an idea of what it should cost.
thanks,
Adrial
01-26-2003, 11:21 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Adrial:
Do not use the stock clutch disc. Use the "cup" disc instead. This was actually a factory part, but it is not stocked for some reason. My car had the cup disc from the factory. I believe it was part of option code 5R.
Paragon sells a cup clutch kit that uses the stock pressure plate and throwout bearing with a cup disc.
Do not use the stock clutch disc. Use the "cup" disc instead. This was actually a factory part, but it is not stocked for some reason. My car had the cup disc from the factory. I believe it was part of option code 5R.
Paragon sells a cup clutch kit that uses the stock pressure plate and throwout bearing with a cup disc.
01-27-2003, 02:58 AM
#3
Track Day
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The only reason I can think of that a mechanic would refuse to install your parts is that he won't make as much money. I work part time as a vw/audi tech, and have no problem installing customer supplied parts. As long as there is an understanding that there won't be a warranty when it comes to aftermarket parts, I can't see any problems.
That being said, with the complexity of a clutch job on a 951, I'd recommend upgrading while you're there. Good luck.
That being said, with the complexity of a clutch job on a 951, I'd recommend upgrading while you're there. Good luck.
01-27-2003, 07:59 AM
#5
Race Director
The Cup Clutch has about 20% more clamping pressure; would be worthless to use the Cup disc without the pressure-plate as well.
The KEP-Kennedy Engineering aluminum pressure-plate has about 60% more clamping pressure than stock.
The Centerforce has 90% more clamping pressure than stock with a lighter feel than both the Cup and KEP pressure-plates.
The ultimate one would be a Tilton multiplate 7" clutch. Costs less than any of the other clutches as well. Still trying to figure out how to make one work...
The KEP-Kennedy Engineering aluminum pressure-plate has about 60% more clamping pressure than stock.
The Centerforce has 90% more clamping pressure than stock with a lighter feel than both the Cup and KEP pressure-plates.
The ultimate one would be a Tilton multiplate 7" clutch. Costs less than any of the other clutches as well. Still trying to figure out how to make one work...
01-27-2003, 10:13 AM
#6
Racer
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[Edit... whoa, my avatar is too big!, doh!]
Adrial,
Do you care about NVH (noise,vibration,harshness)?
I've heard some people complain that non-stock clutches have noise/rattling issues....
If you running a daily driver, this may be an issue.
Can anyone confirm/deny these rumours?
Raagi
Adrial,
Do you care about NVH (noise,vibration,harshness)?
I've heard some people complain that non-stock clutches have noise/rattling issues....
If you running a daily driver, this may be an issue.
Can anyone confirm/deny these rumours?
Raagi
01-27-2003, 03:36 PM
#7
I pruchased the Cup clutch from Jason at Paragon, Excellent service along with excellent parts!
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01-27-2003, 08:09 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Danno:
It has always been my understanding that the cup clutch package uses the stock pressure plate and throwout bearing. What is the part # for the cup pressure plate?
StanUK:
The 5R option code includes the limited slip transmission with loop cooler and from the few cars I have seen, the "cup" clutch. I am trying to verify this, but it would explain a few things.
RPG951S:
As far as NVH, the cup disc is a bit grabbier on initial take off, but otherwise there are no issues with noise, vibration etc. These are OEM parts.
89951S:
I think the book is 16 hours for a clutch job. So, if the going labor rate in your area is $75/hour you are looking at $1,200 plus approx $650 in parts.
If you are going to do this yourself and are working on your back in the home garage, figure it will take two long days over a weekend. Get it on stands Friday night and soak all of the exhaust fasteners with penetrating oil. The speed/ref sensors can be loosened and partially raised in the bracket prior to raising the car.
The clutch job is not technically difficult, but is very time consuming. There are a few unusual arrangements of components, but if you have done a clutch before, you can do the 951.
It has always been my understanding that the cup clutch package uses the stock pressure plate and throwout bearing. What is the part # for the cup pressure plate?
StanUK:
The 5R option code includes the limited slip transmission with loop cooler and from the few cars I have seen, the "cup" clutch. I am trying to verify this, but it would explain a few things.
RPG951S:
As far as NVH, the cup disc is a bit grabbier on initial take off, but otherwise there are no issues with noise, vibration etc. These are OEM parts.
89951S:
I think the book is 16 hours for a clutch job. So, if the going labor rate in your area is $75/hour you are looking at $1,200 plus approx $650 in parts.
If you are going to do this yourself and are working on your back in the home garage, figure it will take two long days over a weekend. Get it on stands Friday night and soak all of the exhaust fasteners with penetrating oil. The speed/ref sensors can be loosened and partially raised in the bracket prior to raising the car.
The clutch job is not technically difficult, but is very time consuming. There are a few unusual arrangements of components, but if you have done a clutch before, you can do the 951.
01-28-2003, 07:03 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Where can I find pricing for the centerforce? I searched google to no avail...
I found the Cup clutch at Paragon for $650 with Disc, PP and TO bearing.
I found the Cup clutch at Paragon for $650 with Disc, PP and TO bearing.
04-02-2003, 01:22 AM
#13
Three Wheelin'
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FYI, just searched for 'Porsche' at summitracing.com. Came up with a Centerforce clutch/pressure plate for a 944 turbo for $811.99. I think that is the best deal I have heard of for this package.
04-02-2003, 09:20 AM
#14
I have been told by a friend with a shop here in KC that the 930S clutch is the hot set up for 951's that are seeing track duty. He swears its the ticket. I will try to find out more on this from him when I see him again, and will post when I do. In the meantime, has anyone else run that set up on their 951?
Regards,
Regards,
04-02-2003, 11:05 AM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
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[QUOTE] [930S clutch is the hot set up for 951's that are seeing track duty. He /QUOTE]
Jason at Paragon told me this also.
I am in need of replacing my NEW Cup Clutch, 3700 miles on it, think a spring has come off. I was just in there at 1500 miles when the retaining ring on the throw out bearing came off <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
Jason at Paragon told me this also.
I am in need of replacing my NEW Cup Clutch, 3700 miles on it, think a spring has come off. I was just in there at 1500 miles when the retaining ring on the throw out bearing came off <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />