Crankcase Vent System
#61
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I drilled my oil separator and ran a Moroso catch can. I double O-ringed my dipstick too. I beleive the oil leaks under boost are problems with the restricted oil separator port at the top.
#62
Burning Brakes
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Andy, has your set up solved your problem?? I was looking over some explded views of the stock oil separator / breather and the two ports that connect it to the motor are about the same size as the take off port on top that routes to the inlet. Led me to thinking that only increasing the take off port capacity might not cut it, I hope this is not the case though...
#65
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Originally posted by mochman
where the ??!& is the stock oil separator/breather b951s could you post the exploded view?
where the ??!& is the stock oil separator/breather b951s could you post the exploded view?
#66
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Originally posted by 951and944S
Tony, the dipstick tube is steel and the pan is aluminium......IIRC...
Even Tim can't weld that together....
TS
Tony, the dipstick tube is steel and the pan is aluminium......IIRC...
Even Tim can't weld that together....
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
TS
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#68
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951and944S
>>>Tony, the dipstick tube is steel and the pan is aluminium......<<<
Good thinking. Again... I had not even thought of this... but you are very correct.
BUT :-) .... the sucker could be epoxied in there! But the problem is getting it clean enough to do so while installed in the car.
Or.. I could have a 6" or piece of dip stick tube cnc'ed, and enlarged to accept a 6" shortened steel factory dip stick tube. That way the sucker could be welded up.
Honestly... I'm fed up with the oil leaks of these cars. Brand new engine, used engine, 100K mile engine... they all damn leak.
It's getting real old...
>>>Tony, the dipstick tube is steel and the pan is aluminium......<<<
Good thinking. Again... I had not even thought of this... but you are very correct.
BUT :-) .... the sucker could be epoxied in there! But the problem is getting it clean enough to do so while installed in the car.
Or.. I could have a 6" or piece of dip stick tube cnc'ed, and enlarged to accept a 6" shortened steel factory dip stick tube. That way the sucker could be welded up.
Honestly... I'm fed up with the oil leaks of these cars. Brand new engine, used engine, 100K mile engine... they all damn leak.
It's getting real old...
#70
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As I was rebuilding my motor I stumbled upon some info that I think you guys might find interesting.
Here it is....
Do you see the "Note when installing" column in the second image???? Line item #2 in the second image, is the guide tube.
"Install with Loctite 638""
I can't believe NONE of us read the manual. ROFL!!! We SHOULD Of READ THE STINKING MANUAL...
I don't know if I should laugh or cry.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edit: I used Permatex Ultra Grey on my motor, and it seems to be working great.
Sean
Here it is....
Do you see the "Note when installing" column in the second image???? Line item #2 in the second image, is the guide tube.
"Install with Loctite 638""
I can't believe NONE of us read the manual. ROFL!!! We SHOULD Of READ THE STINKING MANUAL...
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
I don't know if I should laugh or cry.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edit: I used Permatex Ultra Grey on my motor, and it seems to be working great.
Sean
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#72
Burning Brakes
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I also thought about using a cold weld type expoxy material to stick the dipstick tube in the pan. Something like JB weld which is good to 600 deg F and has a tensile yeild of about 4,000psi and is good for the vibration, oil, etc and strong enough. Far easier than welding but cleanliness would be paramount also.
I spent a long time scouring the manuals and I think the loctite application must be for a diffrent type of tube that does not have the oring seals etc detailed out, it just show the metal tube and that it. I could find no reference to the plastic collar and red oring in the factory books.
Any way, my leak problem under boost looks to be this very same bastar* dipstick tube issue!
I cleaned off the motor and low and behold, there was a nice fresh covering of oil under the tube and about 1/2" up it from the base. I pulled it out. Pulled off the oring and coller and cleaned it. Made about 4 wraps with PTFE thread tape (good for the temp). Pushed the collar back on, wrapped the whole lot in thread tape, put the oring on and then covered the lot with RTV sealant. Popped it back in and after a few days, its been dry with ~14psi, I will keep an eye on it and see how it hold up to 18psi. I also straightened the tube a little so it had to be pushed down for the small bolt to make up to the inlet manifold. I am hoping this pre-load will help maintain the seal
I spent a long time scouring the manuals and I think the loctite application must be for a diffrent type of tube that does not have the oring seals etc detailed out, it just show the metal tube and that it. I could find no reference to the plastic collar and red oring in the factory books.
Any way, my leak problem under boost looks to be this very same bastar* dipstick tube issue!
I cleaned off the motor and low and behold, there was a nice fresh covering of oil under the tube and about 1/2" up it from the base. I pulled it out. Pulled off the oring and coller and cleaned it. Made about 4 wraps with PTFE thread tape (good for the temp). Pushed the collar back on, wrapped the whole lot in thread tape, put the oring on and then covered the lot with RTV sealant. Popped it back in and after a few days, its been dry with ~14psi, I will keep an eye on it and see how it hold up to 18psi. I also straightened the tube a little so it had to be pushed down for the small bolt to make up to the inlet manifold. I am hoping this pre-load will help maintain the seal
#73
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Resurrected from the dead. I put sealer on my dipstick tube and 2 O-rings. Tube stopped leaking - Great! So now the oil pan gasket blows out instead - not so awesome. I am experiencing the dreaded crank pressure build-up and after talking to Tim thing that it may be due to ring blow-by. Will try the D. Salama band-aid and report back.
#74
Race Director
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I have installed a Catch can, not 3 days after I get a leak in my dipstick seal area. I have not drilled out the seperator yet, will do that soon. Have ordered a new seal for the dipstick.
#75
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If you don't drill out the separator, don't complain. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The itty-bitty hole can't vent that kind of pressure. Like blowing a huge spit-wad through a coffee swizzle stick... your eyes would pop out first!
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The itty-bitty hole can't vent that kind of pressure. Like blowing a huge spit-wad through a coffee swizzle stick... your eyes would pop out first!