Crankcase Vent System
11-15-2002, 02:03 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mr. David Salama, I have a couple of questions for you, can you tell me the name/part # or a picture of the one way valve you got from a hardware store? Today I went to lowes (I will be doing my oil pan gasket for the 3rd time tomorrow, don't want to do it again, so I'd like to duplicate what you ahve) and couldn't find anything that would work, let alone fit. Also, why would you use a filter, if you have the checkvalve (and no air can go into the crankcase through this hole)?
Thanks
Ahmet
Thanks
Ahmet
11-15-2002, 08:41 PM
#18
Racer
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ahmet,
I looked into this when David first posted about this a couple months ago. I think I saw some suitable sump pump check valves at Lowes. I didn't measure for the proper size or anything, but if the weather stays crappy this weekend I may make a project of it.
Ron
I looked into this when David first posted about this a couple months ago. I think I saw some suitable sump pump check valves at Lowes. I didn't measure for the proper size or anything, but if the weather stays crappy this weekend I may make a project of it.
Ron
11-15-2002, 09:47 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
The only thing I'd worry about is how well a plumbing sump valve stands up to the demands of this application. How long have you had it in place? Any signs of wear? What would happen if it disintegrated? Could any plastic bits fall into the engine?
11-15-2002, 10:35 PM
#20
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[quote]Originally posted by pikey7:
<strong>Hi Kevin,
Care to enlighten the rest of us what you did? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Pikey,
I am sorry that I don't know the names of some of these hoses. Essentially, there is a hose that comes out from under the intake manifold and plugs into the intake tube on my maf unit. This seems to be the hose that vents oil blowby back into the intake. I bought a plastic elbow from pep boys (I think it was 1/2" to 3/4")and then ran this into a $20. catch can from Summit Racing that looks very similar to what has been posted by others. Essentially, a plastic can with inlet, drain valve on the bottom and a filter on top. I'd have to check, but I believe the hose coming from under the manifold is 1/2" so the elbow lets you plug one end to this hose, and then I used 3/4" heater hose on the other end because that was the size of the hose barb on the catch can. I mounted all of this where your window washing fluid tank normally sits. (Track car, no lights and no tank)It seems to work very well.
Kevin
<strong>Hi Kevin,
Care to enlighten the rest of us what you did? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Pikey,
I am sorry that I don't know the names of some of these hoses. Essentially, there is a hose that comes out from under the intake manifold and plugs into the intake tube on my maf unit. This seems to be the hose that vents oil blowby back into the intake. I bought a plastic elbow from pep boys (I think it was 1/2" to 3/4")and then ran this into a $20. catch can from Summit Racing that looks very similar to what has been posted by others. Essentially, a plastic can with inlet, drain valve on the bottom and a filter on top. I'd have to check, but I believe the hose coming from under the manifold is 1/2" so the elbow lets you plug one end to this hose, and then I used 3/4" heater hose on the other end because that was the size of the hose barb on the catch can. I mounted all of this where your window washing fluid tank normally sits. (Track car, no lights and no tank)It seems to work very well.
Kevin
11-15-2002, 11:06 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I am being the good wife for Dave and checking this post for him. He is out of town this weekend. "Stay tuned" for his official responses when he returns. 
11-16-2002, 11:24 AM
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I saw the Jax can at a local speed shop and it looks to be a poorly made product; the petcock looks really cheap, etc. The shop makes it's own cans, which are aluminum instead of plastic like the Jax, and similar to the ones available from Summit. It holds 1 qt. and will have a 10AN fitting with a hose barb adapter to fit a 5/8" hose. Looks like I'll have to remove the windshield wash reservoir like you Kevin, since I can't find anywhere else to mount the can -- it's only about 3" in diameter but 11" long including the filter.
11-17-2002, 10:14 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
I can not find a part number of the Lowes sump pump check valve, but it costs less than 5 dollars, it is black and has a simple rubber flap in it without any screws. It's profile looks like 5 cylinders stacked small, medium, large, medium, small. I cut the small cylinder off the end for clearance and hose clamped the K & N filter (round 2 1/4 base, 3 1/2 filter, 2 inch tall) onto the medium cylinder on top. On the bottom medium cylinder, I hose clamped a suitable rubber hose that simply fits snugly over the oil fill tube. I have run with this setup at one drivers school, and have seen no sign of melting or deterioration. Over time, I may simply replace it to be sure, however. There has not been any oil coming out of the check valve, so saturating the filter or needing a catch can is not an issue. I believe the tall oil fill tube lets all the oil drain back to the pan. At idle, I have positive crankcase pressure that pops open the check valve. I can only imagine how much air is coming out of there at 18 psi !! Be careful simple rerouting your PCV line to a catch can or atmosphere without this additional vent, since I blew out my cam housing gasket doing that. The venting capability of my vent is much greater that the oil separator PCV line. The picture below is the same valve that I use for my blow off valve, and is the only decent picture I have of the valve--sorry.
11-18-2002, 08:05 PM
#28
Racer
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Went to Lowes today with David's post in hand and returned with this...
$4.44 plus tax. I figured it was worth some experimentation. It looks like a 2" rubber coupling (in the plumbing dept) would fit over the large section of the body, as well as the oil fill tube. The red line in the picture is where I assume you'd shorten the valve body for clearance.
Just for kicks I stuck the valve on in place of my oil filler cap on my warmed up engine. I didn't secure it in any way, but I found that at idle there appeared to be a slight vacuum, rather than the positive pressure David noted. When I pulled the valve off the filler tube, my idle speed decreased by about 75 rpm (eyeballing the factory tach). I put the valve back on, and sure enough, the idle rose from 875 to ~950 rpm. I repeated this several times and took a drive in between, and the effect was consistent. Now, what does this mean?
Thanks
Ron
$4.44 plus tax. I figured it was worth some experimentation. It looks like a 2" rubber coupling (in the plumbing dept) would fit over the large section of the body, as well as the oil fill tube. The red line in the picture is where I assume you'd shorten the valve body for clearance.
Just for kicks I stuck the valve on in place of my oil filler cap on my warmed up engine. I didn't secure it in any way, but I found that at idle there appeared to be a slight vacuum, rather than the positive pressure David noted. When I pulled the valve off the filler tube, my idle speed decreased by about 75 rpm (eyeballing the factory tach). I put the valve back on, and sure enough, the idle rose from 875 to ~950 rpm. I repeated this several times and took a drive in between, and the effect was consistent. Now, what does this mean?
Thanks
Ron
