Crankcase Vent System
12-08-2002, 01:51 AM
#47
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Yes, there is atleast one way because I have have done it, had the crankcase vent hose and the hose for the idle stabalizer switched when I first installed my MAF, blew oil from the camhousing gasket and made a huge mess.
12-08-2002, 01:57 AM
#48
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[quote]Originally posted by David Floyd:
<strong>Yes, there is atleast one way because I have have done it, had the crankcase vent hose and the hose for the idle stabalizer switched when I first installed my MAF, blew oil from the camhousing gasket and made a huge mess.</strong><hr></blockquote>
That sonuds like somehting I'd do...
<strong>Yes, there is atleast one way because I have have done it, had the crankcase vent hose and the hose for the idle stabalizer switched when I first installed my MAF, blew oil from the camhousing gasket and made a huge mess.</strong><hr></blockquote>
That sonuds like somehting I'd do...
12-08-2002, 11:21 AM
#49
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Steve, I've got EXACTLY the same thing going-on on my car, and it's PISSING ME OFF! Sorry about that. 
Originally when I installed my SDS system I vented the crankcase vent to the atmoshpere via a K&N filter. This dribbled oil and I had the oil out the dipstick base problem so I figured I needed some active evacuation so I reconnected the vent to the intake before the turbo. Guess what. Still coming out the base of the dipstick tube. We're building a custom 3" exhaust next week (we're going to modify the stock downpipe too - flaring it gradually to 3" starting near the turbo flange) and I'm considering putting some venturis on the exhaust to evacuate more crankcase pressure. Anybody have experience with this type of thing. Where on the exhaust do you install the inlets? Closer to the tip or to the motor?
Originally when I installed my SDS system I vented the crankcase vent to the atmoshpere via a K&N filter. This dribbled oil and I had the oil out the dipstick base problem so I figured I needed some active evacuation so I reconnected the vent to the intake before the turbo. Guess what. Still coming out the base of the dipstick tube. We're building a custom 3" exhaust next week (we're going to modify the stock downpipe too - flaring it gradually to 3" starting near the turbo flange) and I'm considering putting some venturis on the exhaust to evacuate more crankcase pressure. Anybody have experience with this type of thing. Where on the exhaust do you install the inlets? Closer to the tip or to the motor?
12-08-2002, 04:59 PM
#51
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[quote]Originally posted by Russ Murphy:
<strong>Steve, I've got EXACTLY the same thing going-on on my car, and it's PISSING ME OFF! Sorry about that. Originally when I installed my SDS system I vented the crankcase vent to the atmoshpere via a K&N filter. This dribbled oil and I had the oil out the dipstick base problem so I figured I needed some active evacuation so I reconnected the vent to the intake before the turbo. Guess what. Still coming out the base of the dipstick tube. ?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Russ,
It's really frustrating. The pissing dipstick tube is the only open issue with my car. I took the other route from yours- a new O-ring at the dipstick tube flange, no dice. 2, then 3 stacked O-rings. 3 seems to work better than one. I even ordered a plastic flange for the base of the dipstick that I found in the Porsche 951 microfiche. No fix. I going to try and fit a slightly larger o ring in and see if that helps.
Up on the dyno back when this all started to happen, I crawled underneath my car to see just how intense the oil was being squirted out. I estimated it to be 2 ounces with every full pass load on the boost in 5th gear.
Today I pulled off my intake manifold and took apart the crankcase vent hoses just to be sure there aren't any odd obstructions- none found. I can't imagine the crankcase pressure is high enough to not be releived by the stock vent hoses. I pulled a high volume of air (shop vac) through the crankcase vent in the oil filler with no problems.
I wonder if my dipstick tube or the oil pan fitting is toast, perhaps the slight interference fit is too large. It's very puzzling.
While I have my intake off, I'm going to run the wastegate line directly through Guru's boost enhancer and bypass the cycling valve. Now I just need to search and find out if the eletrical connection to the cycling valve is critical to keep hooked up...
I'll keep you posted about the dipstick tube if a fix is found.
<strong>Steve, I've got EXACTLY the same thing going-on on my car, and it's PISSING ME OFF! Sorry about that.
Originally when I installed my SDS system I vented the crankcase vent to the atmoshpere via a K&N filter. This dribbled oil and I had the oil out the dipstick base problem so I figured I needed some active evacuation so I reconnected the vent to the intake before the turbo. Guess what. Still coming out the base of the dipstick tube. ?</strong><hr></blockquote>Russ,
It's really frustrating. The pissing dipstick tube is the only open issue with my car. I took the other route from yours- a new O-ring at the dipstick tube flange, no dice. 2, then 3 stacked O-rings. 3 seems to work better than one. I even ordered a plastic flange for the base of the dipstick that I found in the Porsche 951 microfiche. No fix. I going to try and fit a slightly larger o ring in and see if that helps.
Up on the dyno back when this all started to happen, I crawled underneath my car to see just how intense the oil was being squirted out. I estimated it to be 2 ounces with every full pass load on the boost in 5th gear.
Today I pulled off my intake manifold and took apart the crankcase vent hoses just to be sure there aren't any odd obstructions- none found. I can't imagine the crankcase pressure is high enough to not be releived by the stock vent hoses. I pulled a high volume of air (shop vac) through the crankcase vent in the oil filler with no problems.
I wonder if my dipstick tube or the oil pan fitting is toast, perhaps the slight interference fit is too large. It's very puzzling.
While I have my intake off, I'm going to run the wastegate line directly through Guru's boost enhancer and bypass the cycling valve. Now I just need to search and find out if the eletrical connection to the cycling valve is critical to keep hooked up...
I'll keep you posted about the dipstick tube if a fix is found.
12-08-2002, 07:28 PM
#52
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It's almost like the crankcase can vent when the car is just "sitting there", but somehow internally when under load the air/oil separator or whatever is between the open crankcase and the and the top of the vent is clogging under boost. 
12-08-2002, 09:11 PM
#55
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[quote]Originally posted by Steve Cooper:
<strong>
Now I just need to search and find out if the eletrical connection to the cycling valve is critical to keep hooked up...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I have mine dissconected with no problems.
<strong>
Now I just need to search and find out if the eletrical connection to the cycling valve is critical to keep hooked up...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I have mine dissconected with no problems.
10-06-2003, 11:27 PM
#57
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No, not really. I've still had the problem. If I run hard, it spews oil. The car had 150-155 psi compression across the board when I bought it (150,000 miles) and I can't imagine it going to hell in a handbasket in 15,000 miles more. I just resealed the dipstick base (new o-rings and Yamabond) and found that the threading on the underside of the intake manifold was stripped and that the dipstick wasn't held in place firmly. We'll se how that goes shortly (after I get my intercooler back from Tim at SFR ).
).
10-07-2003, 12:41 AM
#58
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Steve Cooper
Concerning the dip stick tube leak.
I almost had to laugh, as mine leaks there as well, and no matter what I do with the O rings, it sill leaks there.
I'm seriously considering welding the dip stick tube to the pan. I mean.. who cares? If I pull the pan, I'll simply pull the pan down with the dip stick tube. I can easily pull the turbo, or do any maintenence I have to do with the tube permanently connected to the pan.
Concerning the dip stick tube leak.
I almost had to laugh, as mine leaks there as well, and no matter what I do with the O rings, it sill leaks there.
I'm seriously considering welding the dip stick tube to the pan. I mean.. who cares? If I pull the pan, I'll simply pull the pan down with the dip stick tube. I can easily pull the turbo, or do any maintenence I have to do with the tube permanently connected to the pan.
10-07-2003, 01:12 AM
#59
Nordschleife Master
why not just put some "gasket in a tube" around it, shove it down into the pan, bolt it back to the manifold and wait fo rit to dry before driving?
I don't know if mine has ever leaked, but yesterday I was replacing some things and I had the manifold pulled off. (IE dipstick tube not bolted to anything)
So me wondering if I'm going to need more oil when I get my car running again, try to check by pulling out the dipstick - only the whole tube comes with it!
"****" says me!!!
Oh NO!
Then I realise it just plugs into the oil pan. /me shrugs.
put some silicon or gasket in a tube around the bottom of the outside lip and let it dry. it should hold as long as the tube is bolted to the manifold....
I don't know if mine has ever leaked, but yesterday I was replacing some things and I had the manifold pulled off. (IE dipstick tube not bolted to anything)
So me wondering if I'm going to need more oil when I get my car running again, try to check by pulling out the dipstick - only the whole tube comes with it!
"****" says me!!!
Oh NO!Then I realise it just plugs into the oil pan. /me shrugs.
put some silicon or gasket in a tube around the bottom of the outside lip and let it dry. it should hold as long as the tube is bolted to the manifold....
10-07-2003, 01:40 AM
#60
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Rich
The vibrations of the engine will break the seal since the intake is connected to the dip stick tube. The head (and associated expansion/contraction), vibration, temps, etc.. make the sealant solution, non-viable.
For me, considering everything, I'm pretty serious about having the thing welded to the oil pan. One less leak.
In fact, I could cut the dip stick tube about 8" up, enlarge it, then stick the remaining piece back into the enlarged portion for a tight fit. Then cut and weld a piece, equal to the enlarged section, to the overall length (which would be done so that the dip stick has the exact same reach into the pan).
Either way... I'm about to take serious action on that little piece of crap dip stick tube.
The vibrations of the engine will break the seal since the intake is connected to the dip stick tube. The head (and associated expansion/contraction), vibration, temps, etc.. make the sealant solution, non-viable.
For me, considering everything, I'm pretty serious about having the thing welded to the oil pan. One less leak.
In fact, I could cut the dip stick tube about 8" up, enlarge it, then stick the remaining piece back into the enlarged portion for a tight fit. Then cut and weld a piece, equal to the enlarged section, to the overall length (which would be done so that the dip stick has the exact same reach into the pan).
Either way... I'm about to take serious action on that little piece of crap dip stick tube.