purple_rado

hoping to situate some of the oil leaks i've had on mine, replace the sway bar bushings, pin point an exhaust rattle/heat shield and little maintenance items. and use it as much as i can before they start to salt the roads here.

my daily driver has some big suspension changes in the near future as well. one car at a time, however, because i only have a single bay to get it done.

Scott H

What is the ballpark cost to replace all rubber seals in the engine, rebuild the K26/8 and a head gasket job?

Just off the top of my head probably $600 for the seals, $450 for the turbo rebuild and $200ish for skimming the head/replacing valve seals in the head and new HG? I'd probably also do the timing belts while I'm in there so $200 more. The water pump was replaced 6 years ago (when the timing belt was last done... eek. only 8000 miles on it and belt tension was checked on it every 2 years, still rather the timing belt be new), is it likely the WP is still in good condition?

All in all ~$1400ish seems like enough to get all those parts, yes?

Hoping to do all that and WG, Exhaust, MBC, Chips, etc. Then the car should be pretty bulletproof for a while. I've been through everything else in the car with the exception of the rear suspension, and that is going to wait for another year or so because I am not looking forward to that job.

fortysixandtwo

This is with a 16V head and an o-ringed block.
Wide fire, raceware, don't recall, 16psi, 91oct

When first starting the car, I didn't have the fans plugged in, and the hose clamp to the water pump was not a tight as it should have been, oops. This caused the hose to pull off and drain the block of coolant while at the upper temperature operating range. I think my sealing problems relate back to this incidence.
After a few pulls on the dyno, the same joint came apart again, during a pull. It was already pushing combustion gasses into the coolant at that point though.

I'm hoping for just a bad gasket and maybe just needing to skim the head. Either way the head can use a refresh. It was used but deemed acceptable when putting the engine together.

Thom

Well, sorry to hear that, but pleased to know I'm not the only d**k out there, as I also forgot to plug the fans when I first started my 3.0. Coolant temp went almost to the red and the car puffed white smoke as soon as I drove it out of the garage. It had been puffing white smoke only when idling and didn't have any issue until it recently started to consistently push coolant after trying 18psi with E85.
One headgasket later, overtorqued raceware studs replaced with stock studs, and things are now back in order though the orignal headgasket showed no sign of failure.

Do you still run the POS stock oil cooler or something actually effective?

David Floyd

Patrick, I'm just waiting for Olli to finish testing their larger MC's

More to the list

Dash to be recovered

odometer gear replacement

toddk911

DIY 3" IC pipes, DIY gradual 3-4" exhaust, new tune and DIY AOS.

fortysixandtwo

I'm using a larger plate style that's mounted in front of the radiator.

To keep in line with the thread, I might be making some ducting to keep the heated air from the oil cooler separate from the coolant radiator. I don't have any cooling issues, but I just don't like the concept of feeding one heat exchanger with the hot air of another.

choinga

pull my calipers and paint them, new pads, figure out a better MAF +12v wiring option (right now I have my MAF power run up to the fuel pump fuse in the fusebox), fix my power steering squeal and whatever else comes up.

Fortunately in Texas there's no 'off season'. No snow down here and love it when the weather turns a little colder - car runs like a scalded cat...

Richgreenster

I will be finishing my 914/6. I will be posting lots of pics. on 914club websight. The 914/6 forum here is very quiet.

racerxrick

and your water/methanol injection!

LS1Porch

I recently got my car re-tuned with TonyG's mapping as a base. I really appreciate the baseline, but in my case his tune was extremely conservative on timing. I'm sure yours will be the same way due to our similar elevations (he's at sea level, i'm at around 6200ft.).

My tuner added 8 or 9 degrees on the bottom end and took almost 4 degrees off the top end (detonation on the top end, low power on the bottom end).

reno808

1. rebuild 996T calipers
2. rebuild 964T calipers
3. retro fit both calipers
4. lower car
5. replace all suspension busihings with racers edge
6. give it a really good cleaning
7. rebuild CV's
8. add more an lines
9. finish coating all of my exhaust.
10. drop tranny clean it and add shorth throw and mount
11. install the bruase brace
12. install strut bar
13. paint and install FG hood
14. paint and install FG bumper
15. small stuff here and there
all this stuff is just sitting in my agarge not cool

CDH-CTT

Finish the Clutch off(that has held together and NOT slipped by magic) So I can put the new engine and goodies in ......Build an exhaust for the truck(muffler needs to go bye bye).... Replace the Intake manifold on the Jetta TDi....
By more guns for x-mas(need to save $$$)

racerxrick

man you guys are ambitious!

As mentioned previously NOW is the time to drive our cars in Texas!!

However (as per a seperate thread) I now have my AFR gauge and WBo2 kit. The plan is to install it in the LR gauge panel alongside the boost gauge and MBC.

Oh...and a new splitter installed hopefully soon!

toddk911

Yea, still peak driving time here in MD/DC. Later months will be rain/snow, etc. so that is when I will start working.

Let me know how the splitter install goes. I have a stock one to install and it looks like it wil be a pita. lol