TonyG

Running slicks... I have to be over 6.5lbs per HP.

Right now I'm at 2900lbs with driver and fuel and 390RWHP.

At 6.5lbs/hp (the limit for GT2) the most power I could have at the wheels would be 440-445RWHP.

That's exactly 50RWHP more than it makes with the LS1.

And while the car runs just above the middle of the POC Red Race Group, slicks and another 50HP at the wheels would only get it up to maybe 6th-7th at best

( I could get 440RWHP out of a LS1 if I wanted to )

Honestly, the car would be better off losing 200lbs (which is about the most I could easily do), going to slicks and bumping the HP slightly to 410RWHP.

But the problem is that losing 200lbs would mean that the car is no longer able to be driven on the street, which defeats the whole purpose of the car in the first place.

The purpose of the car is to be able to have a car that I could drive to the track on R compound tires, have somewhat of an interior, "reasonable" spring rates, lights, windshield wipers, a horn, etc... and go to any track day event and get a top 3 lap time of the day.

The car met that goal.

To take the car to try to beat factory race cars with excellent amateur or excellent professional drivers, would totally change what the car is about.

I'm better off building (or buying) a dedicated race car.

And if nobody wants to buy the car at $20k, I'll stick in another LS1 and just keep it and rent it out as a track day fun car / toy.

It is a blast to take off the big wing... stick on the GT Racing LeMans wing, and take it out on the streets to beat the crap out of every car that thinks it's fast.... mu ha ha.... Yeah.... I love doing that.


TonyG

TonyG

Yes. But then it would no longer be a street car.

The purpose of the car was to be a streetable car, sorta sneaky-by-design, that could drive to the track and whip all the expensive cars on track days.

I've done that. Then I took it farther and started racing it against full on race cars... and can beat almost all of them except for the fastest of the fast.

To beat those... it's not gonna happen in a 944 chassis. Plus... attempting to do so would turn it into a full-on gutted race car, which would eliminate me being able to drive it on the street with the small street wing, sneaky like... mu ha ha

TonyG

eclou

gotcha. I've just given up on dual-purpose cars. There tends to be too much compromise on both applications

TonyG

So true.



TonyG

BC

Well, its not torsion bar based, so...

docwyte

Yeah, that's kind of where I am too with my car. I drive it to the track, still have A/C, heat, radio, carpet, etc.

I've built it more as a time trial car vs a wheel to wheel race car. If I decided to do wheel to wheel, I'd have to gut it, cage it, etc. I think it would be competitive with me being the weak link vs the car...

Rogue_Ant

Yeah - has anyone though of transplanting a 928 rear-suspension?

TonyG

Well mine has an interior but no heat or a/c or door windows and just a 4 point roll bar.

I can beat 99.9% of anything driven to the track and 95% of everything trailered to the track.

It's the last 5% of the super fast track cars that have me beat.


So in the end... while it's a compromise, it's quite an effective weapon on the track.


TonyG

docwyte

Yep, that's the difference in weight between your car and mine. I'm at 2950 without me in it and could drop anothrer 200 lbs out of it easily by ditching door glass, A/C, heat, radio, etc, etc.

Depends on what you want. I built it as a time trial and fun street car. I think it'll be very competitive in NASA TTS, it's at the top of the hp and lower part of the weight equation.

If you want to be uber competitive, time to run a Cup car. Operating budgets for those are very expensive though, I heard $1500 per track session!

333pg333

It's too big and heavy. 996 stuff however.....

Rogue_Ant

Really?

mikey_audiogeek

I'd suggest looking at the front first. As for the 911, the symptoms shown at the back of the car are caused by compromises at the front.

that's why I asked Tony about why he stopped using the RE arms. Raising front RC height is a priority IMHO. And EFFECTIVE front RC height is affected by chassis rigidity...

TonyG

Everybody...

Just bought a rebuilt LS1 with aftermarket cam and valve springs (with receipts) for $1,900 shipped from Texas.

Should be here in 4 days.

The shop is charging me $750 to swap out engines and drive accessories.

So... for $2,650.00, I've got the car back exactly like it was. Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gotta love it.

Anyway... I figured it would be easier to sell the car with a running engine (and for more $).

So it looks like I will make the Las Vegas POC race at Las Vegas Motor Speedway - Oct 9th. Then the car is going up for sale, and the next chapter of my battle for GT2 supremacy begins!

TonyG

eclou

sweet deal Tony. That is a great price for a rebuilt unit with goodies

mikey_audiogeek

$2650 over 4 years = $662/year engine wear and tear

Nice!

We used to run Nissan FJ20 motors at 530hp, and a changeout used to cost about $1200; all the expensive gear was on the outside. Gotta love "black box" motors!