Mark-87-951

k, sorry I can't add much. My problems turned out to be that I had damaged a ref. sensor wire at some point when I reinstalled the intake manifold. How is the starter holding up? Maybe it's not turning the engine fast enough? I burned up a couple starters cranking too much when I had starting problems. Are the spark plug wires securely attaching to the plugs? I damaged mine because I didnt use dielectric grease and so used too much force getting them on. Still had spark though but that may have been a contributing issue for me.

Ziff951

I appreciate the help Mark. The starter is working great...for now...hopefully I don't burn this one up!
You know, it still could be a wire issue. The stuff under my hood is all pretty crispy...I have a bad feeling that I may end up rewiring this entire car..:-(. When I get the new wiring stuff for the injectors, I may just take off the intake again and rewire everything under there all the way back to the DME. What a pain....I got this car to have fun..now it's a 3,000 lb driveway weight...at least my driveway won't blow away...

Ziff951

Any other thoughts before I through a tarp over it and wait till I have cash to take it to a shop?
-I got a noid light kit and it lit up on all the injectors
-fired each spark plug and have spark
-lined up the camshaft notch and flywheel OT line...for the fourth time
-peeled the boot off of the dme temp sensor to make sure no wires were touching (and did the multi meter test for the correct K ohms
-I've jumped the dme relay a couple million times
-replaced the ref sensors
-I have 1 bar on key accessory turn so KLR is okay?
-tach moves a tiny bit on turn over

that's pretty much the story..
Could the DME be having trouble? Seems odd if I hadn't touched it until I started trouble shooting the no-start.

Are there any Porsche mechanics that want to do some side diagnostic work?

Thanks
Stephen

Rogue_Ant

The DME could be bad - just call it coincidence... I would try a known good DME before taking it to a shop.

adrial

I just meant to set all the fuel trim adjustments to zero in the mafterburner software.

If you borrow a DME, put in stock chips (or chips intended for an AFM), zero out the fuel trim adjustments in the Mafterburner software and unplug the MAF --- the car will idle if the DME, chips or MAF sensor were bad.

Maybe someone with a MAF can comment -- I don't know if the car should idle with the MAF sensor unplugged. I know it will with the stock AFM unplugged.

If you put up a post asking to borrow a DME/KLR -- I think you'll find someone in your area nice enough to let you borrow them.

Ziff951

Just to put this thread to bed....It has been solved!

Turns out that the collar on the end of the camshaft slid on the shaft SHEARING THE WOODRUFF KEY. I wanted to put that in all caps so people realize it was NOT the little bolt backing out that caused it. The only way to tell (other than randomly taking off the whole cam set up) was that the rotor set screw and the collar bolt were not in proper relation to each other... Tom and I talked on the phone and stumbled on to it by accident...insanity.

Rogue_Ant

Glad you finally got it figured out!